[farshot83]

Hi all, Thanks for the massive knowledge base here. I'll be sure to help when I can but I need some help myself.

I have an Enco lathe Model:110-2032, MFG Date: 1992-1

I had to replace the belts and the motor starting capacitor. Once it was all back together I found issues.
Seem to be in the control circuit.

The drum switch does not turn motor on in either direction.
The emergency switch works properly.
When i press and hold either of the motor relay buttons it operates flawless.

Upon further investigation I found the relay does not click open and closed.
I checked DCV coming out of the bridge rectifier and it only gives 6.54.
The relay is an OMRON type F MY2...listed as 12v but says 24v on the coil inside...
I replaced the bridge rectifier with the exact same replacement part and I still only get 6.54 DCV.
If I jump the relay connectors the drum switch it still does not operate correctly.

I searched all over the web and can not find schematics, at least not for this specific model.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I have pictures and can post all details asked of.
Thanks again...

[farshot83]

60 views and no info???

Do i need to post more detail?
pictures?
Its 220...

[Fastest1]

Sorry double post

[Fastest1]

Pictures are always appreciated.

Also how big is this lathe? I would post this in the general electronics section and see if you get a response.Is this a manual Enco 13 x 40? Are you energizing the circuit initially with the momentary switch that activates the main contactor?

Another thing, I wouldnt trust a Chinese wiring diagram. They leave a bit to be desired even when they are correct, which they usually arent.

Have you been to Yahoo groups? They are pretty active on the manual machines.

[farshot83]

Thanks fast!

MOD please move to the right spot. Apologize for putting it in the wrong one.

Its a manual lathe. I'll check out the yahoo groups.

[Fastest1]

Not saying it was in the wrong place necessarily. Just some areas of the forum get more attention.

[Fastest1]

Try this one
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/grou...6importlathes/

[farshot83]

Try this one
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/grou...6importlathes/

Thats the first one I went to. Still waiting on the "approval" and thanks again. I don't know everything so finding knowledge bases are always a good start.

[CNCMAN172]

This is most likely a bad contractor, look up the model number of contractor and determine coil voltage probably 120vac. Attempt to activate coil remotely. If this fails the coil is bad. I have an Enco lathe slightly older and had to rebuild control box with new contractor.

Hope this helps

[farshot83]

This is most likely a bad contractor, look up the model number of contractor and determine coil voltage probably 120vac. Attempt to activate coil remotely. If this fails the coil is bad. I have an Enco lathe slightly older and had to rebuild control box with new contractor.

Hope this helps

What exactly is the part you consider a contractor? Do you mean contactor? In the relay right?

The AC is converted to DC via bridge rectifier and this power goes directly to the coil in the relay.
I don't understand what you are talking about....please elaborate for me.

[Fastest1]

There is a large rectangular block with many contacts (8?), some would mistake for a relay. In a sense it is. It has a latching feature (why I asked you if you had used the momentary switch to activate the contactor). This block controls all of the circuits as it enters the machine. Hitting the E stop, interrupts the latch and stop all electric flow. It does have a mechanical test bar. Pics to follow.

[Fastest1]

Yours might be a little different but it will be similar (probably black/brown if like my original)

I rebuilt my electronics right upon purchase as the motor was fried. I bought an 3PH motor and a VFD and replaced it all. Yours runs a DC motor?It has been a while since I did that and dont remember what I removed.

[Al_The_Man]

If the contactor coil is rated for 24vdc and you are getting a fraction of this right at the output of the rectifier or bridge then you need to see what the AC side is reading, as this appears to be your problem.
Make sure you test the voltage with nothing connected or no load.
Al.

[CNCMAN172]

As others shared, a contactor is just a large relay. These are meant to carry high current through much larger relay contacts. There is a coil side and and output side. Depending on your machine you often find two contactors in the control box. When the drum switch is moved to foward it provides voltage to the coil of one contactor and when it is rotated to reverse it provides coil voltage to the second contactor. The contactors are wired in such a way that the motor reverses with one contactor and goes foward with the other contactor. It appears you have a contactor with a 24V coil. You said when you hold the motor relay button the motor works flawlessly. Do you mean the moving element on the contactor. If so this again points to the contactor or the voltage source to the contactor being bad. First put a DC volt meter across the coil connections for the contactor and move the drum switch. If you see 24VDC on the coil and it does not move then you have a bad contactor. If you do not see any voltage on the coil connections when you move the switch you need to trace back the 24VDC source to see if it is still working.
Hope this helps.

[farshot83]

Yes. I meant I push and hold the test bar on the contactor which makes the motor work flawlessly.
I'll check the DCV to the contactor coils.
I'm certain the system is AC though so regardless I'll check for the proper Voltage and for continuity at the coils.
The only DC part seems to be the DPDT relay which is powered by the bridge rectifier.

Thanks for bringing me up to speed with the proper name of the part.

[Al_The_Man]

I'm a little confused with some of your details, you mention a drum switch, which usually precludes a contactor, because the Omron MY2 series of relays are just signal or control relays, not really suitable for motor switching?
If in fact you do have a contactor and a drum switch then this may be for reversing feature with a single contactor.
Either way, if it works when you push the contactor armature in, then confirm the coil voltage and AC or DC?
Al.

[farshot83]

I'm confused to. lol

Power in from 220 to a transformer,
transformer to the two contactors, breaker, bridge rectifier, relay...

When I use jumper to bypass the relay it doesn't activate the coil in either of the contactors.

Attachment 222228
Attachment 222230

[farshot83]

I'm posting in this thread again to help a fellow cnczone member. (Unless I can send pics via PM and I'm just not seeing the option.)

Paul, first I want to apologize.
I am the founder of a weapon manufacturing business so I'm always busy and dealing with everything all at once.
I was fast to reply at first because I thoroughly enjoy helping others but ultimately my plate is full and I keep asking for more.
Whenever you need assistance just post in here and I'll do what I can to help.
I have the equipment and can take pictures and trace wiring for you as well as answer component related questions.
However there may be subtle differences between our machines so I'll help where I can and other can fill in the blanks.

I had a difficult time finding any accurate schematics but luckily there are many on here that have acquired a strong general knowledge of electrical wiring.
Ultimately that's all you need to work on these older and simple machines in my opinion.
Once you learn which electrical parts do what, the wiring is mostly straight forward.

I strongly recommend research to acquire your own understanding because not only is it helpful for repairs but also for safety.

The pictures of the drum switch are at the end.

Here are a bunch of pics. Some useful, some probably not.
Attachment 232404
Attachment 232406
Attachment 232408
Attachment 232410
Attachment 232412
Attachment 232414
Attachment 232416
Attachment 232418
Attachment 232420
Attachment 232422
Attachment 232424
Attachment 232426
Attachment 232428
Attachment 232430
Attachment 232432

[atlasdc]

I'm posting in this thread again to help a fellow cnczone member. (Unless I can send pics via PM and I'm just not seeing the option.)

Paul, first I want to apologize.
I am the founder of a weapon manufacturing business so I'm always busy and dealing with everything all at once.
I was fast to reply at first because I thoroughly enjoy helping others but ultimately my plate is full and I keep asking for more.
Whenever you need assistance just post in here and I'll do what I can to help.
I have the equipment and can take pictures and trace wiring for you as well as answer component related questions.
However there may be subtle differences between our machines so I'll help where I can and other can fill in the blanks.

I had a difficult time finding any accurate schematics but luckily there are many on here that have acquired a strong general knowledge of electrical wiring.
Ultimately that's all you need to work on these older and simple machines in my opinion.
Once you learn which electrical parts do what, the wiring is mostly straight forward.

I strongly recommend research to acquire your own understanding because not only is it helpful for repairs but also for safety.

The pictures of the drum switch are at the end.

Here are a bunch of pics. Some useful, some probably not.
Attachment 232404
Attachment 232406
Attachment 232408
Attachment 232410
Attachment 232412
Attachment 232414
Attachment 232416
Attachment 232418
Attachment 232420
Attachment 232422
Attachment 232424
Attachment 232426
Attachment 232428
Attachment 232430
Attachment 232432

Thanks farshot83!!! Thank you for the time and the pics of the drum switch, it is identical to mine. Here is a pic of my electrical box if that will help others also. Attachment 232450 Also a pic of the drum switch off the lathe. Attachment 232448 Lastly a drawing of the switch and wiring. Attachment 232452 Thanks again for all your help and when I get the lathe up and running I'll post a couple pics. Have a GREAT one!!!

[Al_The_Man]

You need to trace the circuit with a meter from the 24vac output of the transformer to whatever is picking up the reverser coils.
Presumably the over load beneath the Cont. has not tripped?
There is a reset button on it.
It shouldn't take much to trace, reverse engineer and document the coil circuit.
Al.