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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10

    Angry Spaghetti Wiring

    Hi everyone,
    This is my first time on here so forgive me if I ask something a million have asked before. I have tried to wire this Monster up, it seems like it should be easy. No matter what I do I get nothing. The older windows XP machine that came with the router has a License copy of Mach3 installed. Granted I did format the computer to a fresh install of XP. I saved all the Mach3 xml files off the machine first. When starting up Mach3 it still says License to previous owner as it should.

    I bought a cnc router a few weeks ago off of craigslist. I have been searching for awhile and came across what I thought was the Monster CNC router.

    Stats:
    5'x10' <- Yes 60"x120"
    Linear bearings
    Ball screws
    Harbor Freight mini mill head sku#44991
    Stepper motors:
    85bygh450c-03a <- 2 Nema34 in Y axis
    85bygh450b-03br <- 1 Nema34 in X axis
    57bygh405a <- 2 Nema23 in Z axis
    Stepper Drivers:
    cw250/2/8 <- 2 of them
    cw250 <- 2 just say this
    Variable speed controller:
    c6r6-s416-16
    DC motor speed controller:
    model: kbic-240 (9428a)
    Power supply:
    model no# tdgc-3km
    Parallel port connected thru:
    uc-06 centronic connector (basic)

    I have gone thru all the wires to the motors and from the internet have come up with A+A-B+B- combos.
    Y axis motors 1&2 = red/blue=A+ black/yellow=A- white/brown=B+ green/purple=B-
    Z axis motors 1&2 = red=A+ green=A- yellow=B+ blue=B-
    X axis motor hooked up pairs thru metering pared wires.

    Port pins:
    x step = 2 direction = 3
    y step = 4 direction = 5
    z step = 6 direction = 7
    a step = 8 direction = 8 <-slave for Y axis

    Attachment 223002
    Attachment 223004
    Attachment 223006
    Attachment 223008
    Attachment 223010
    Attachment 223012
    Attachment 223014
    Attachment 223016
    Attachment 223018
    Attachment 223020
    Attachment 223022
    Attachment 223024
    Attachment 223026

    I hope this is enough info to get some help. I have spent days on the internet trying to Hook this Monster up. When I bought it from the Guy who used to use it I was promised all still works and that he would help me get it going. Well http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images...s/drowning.gif

    Thanks James

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    36
    I suggest you save yourself from enduring the headache and contact the manufacturer. They should help you figure out what you need to do with the wiring.
    For Machinery Relocation, trust only Hanlon & Wright

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    28
    Baby steps, man. Read read and read some more. I built my own from the ground up with no knowledge really, but have experience in electronics. Basics and this seems to be case for most of the mills I've seen. PC -> Breakout board. The BOB is the interface between driving the stepper motors and the PC. From the breakout board, to each stepper motor or motors that are being used. Aside of that, I'm not aware of any feedback control, power requirements (to both the BOB and Drivers), limit switch wiring, ESTOP, etc. Really, I would research the manual for the breakout box and drivers, sit down and take a nice look at what they need to operate. I wish you luck. I've been building mine for about 4 - 5 months - having been operational for 3 of those months, just improving and adding options, etc.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10
    This is all i was given from the person who built the router.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10
    I take it that not very many people have ran into my problem. My breakout board really is just a board that splits out the wires from printer port. From there the wires go to the stepper drivers. And then to the stepper motors. I have used portmon software and all looks good. I have 5volts coming off the board. Step wire is going to CP-, Direction wire is going to CW-, COM wire is going to CP+ and CW+. The "COM" wire is a ground wire that is soldered to outside of the printer port cable connector.Attachment 224026

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2141
    Typically if you have step wire going to CP- and dir wire going to CW- then CP+ and CW+ need to go to +5 volts, not GND.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10
    OK, Is there someone on cnczone who has ever hooked up a cnc without a modern day breakout board? This is that situation. I bought this machine with a promise from the original owner I would get help. Well I'm here to say I really am not getting the support I was promised. I know this machine had ran for several years. So I'm sure this set-up has worked. It just inst like today's machines with new style bob's.Attachment 224130 See the block in the upper right corner? this is where all of the CP+ and CW+ wires go to. See the green wire that is soldered to the centronics cable? It is feeding the block.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    A BOB is actually the easiest thing that you can use to bypass the old one. A new BOB also has features that you won't get from the one you have. That said, if you still intend to use the original controller instead of something like Mach 3, then very few will be able to help.
    Some might of course, especially the guy the sold it to you. Barring help from him, I suggest to update the electronics slightly to something more inline with what hobbyist are using today. There are also quite a few machine shipping with the same kind of electronic setup.
    If you have the motors and power supply, the rest is cake.
    Lee

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2141
    Quote Originally Posted by jguzi View Post
    OK, Is there someone on cnczone who has ever hooked up a cnc without a modern day breakout board? This is that situation. I bought this machine with a promise from the original owner I would get help. Well I'm here to say I really am not getting the support I was promised. I know this machine had ran for several years. So I'm sure this set-up has worked. It just inst like today's machines with new style bob's.Attachment 224130 See the block in the upper right corner? this is where all of the CP+ and CW+ wires go to. See the green wire that is soldered to the centronics cable? It is feeding the block.
    I'm not sure whether or not you were replying to my post, but yes, I have hooked up a CNC without a modern day breakout board.

    As I mentioned above, typical stepper drivers such as the CW250 have optoisolated inputs - if the CP- input is hooked up to the step signal, then CP+ must be hooked up to a positive voltage such as +5 volts, not to GND. Similarly, if CW- is hooked up to the direction signal, then CW+ must be hooked up to a positive voltage such as +5 volts, but not to GND.

    The diagram on the side of the CW250 driver (showing the internal optoisolated hookup with a resistor and LED) should illustrate why that is the case - as shown here (using the magnifier on the page): 20V~60VDC 1.5A~5A Stepper Motor Controller

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Okay. Not sure about the schematics, but I will tell you that older China drives are not noted for important information availability. On those particular drives, I will not be able to help. I suspect the same will happen to others not familiar with the drives.
    One thing I can tell you is that this machine purchase could cost you a few more bucks.
    Lee

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10
    OK thanks for advice. What breakout board would you recommend? And I will have to buy a 5volt and 12volt power supply since I will want to add home or proximity switches too. My machine purchase did come with a c6 board from cnc4pc so I think i might try to utilize this to control the spindle. An advice is always appreciated.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    There are Ferrari type BOBs that are very cool. Then there are basic BOBs. CNC4PC is a good source. They have many different BOBs to choose from. I run several different types, but mainly the ones that are designed specifically for Gecko drives.
    Lee

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10
    OK so i need to update my hardware Chapter 2
    So here is a question:

    motor 1 nema34 6.6v 3.0a inductance 12mh
    motor 2 nema34 6.6v 3.0a inductance 12mh
    motor 3 nema34 6.0v 2.0a inductance 12mh
    motor 4 nema24 3.6v 3.0a inductance 2.4mh
    motor 5 nema24 3.6v 3.0a inductance 2.4mh

    motor 1 12mh sqrt=3.46*32=110.72v
    motor 2 12mh sqrt=3.46*32=110.72v
    motor 3 12mh sqrt=3.46*32=110.72v
    motor 4 2.4mh sqrt=1.55*32=49.6v
    motor 5 2.4mh sqrt=1.55*32=49.6v

    3.0a x 5 motors = 15a x .7(70%)= 10.5Amps
    Current = Amps needed per drive * Number of drives * 0.7

    So is it safe to say I need 2 power supplys one 110v 10amp and a 50v 10amp? Plus a 5v/12v supply to run board and switches?

    What is a better breakout board to use a cnc4pc/c11 or pmdx-122?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10
    ITS ALIVE!!! I received an email from the person who built the machine with some good info. So for anyone who is wiring stepper drivers from a basic centronics breakout board this is the info you will need. You are relying on the 5 volts supplied by the printer port.

    Example of my X axis:
    Printer port pin 2 is step and 3 is direction.
    Centronics board pin 2 wire goes to CP+.
    Pin 3 wire will go to CW+.
    CP- and CW- will be jumper-ed and are grounded to printer cables metal frame.

    This is wiring my CW250 stepper drivers.

    I hope anyone who is looking to do the same will find this info helpful as I couldn't find it on the internet.

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