[widget_maker]

I followed Mike Henry's instructions on tramming the mill. Related to him by Tormach themselves. (shims under the pads)

Tramming the X was a piece of cake. A 25 thou shim under the right front did the trick. Took it from 6 thou to about 1 thou over 13".

However, the Y refused to improve. It started at about 2 thou over the depth of the table using an indicol and bestest. No matter what I did it barely moved.
I started with all four holddown nuts completely loose and lifted the back, no luck.
Tried again by snugging up the fronts first and lifting the back of the machine (the back was low). Also no luck.

I stuck a 31 thou shim under each back pad - remeasured, hardly moved the reading.

By the way, I know this isn't actually tramming the head but removing twist BUT I should be able to meet factory specs this way apparently.
I can tram my Sharp knee mill dead nuts on in ten minutes no sweat, so I am capable if I know the procedure!

Any ideas?

[widget_maker]

Just dug out my certificate of inspection, it states (G6 I think is the correct one) 0.03mm over 200mm for Y and 0.04mm over 200mm for X.

what's that? 1.2thou in Y and 1.6thou in X so I guess I won't do any better than that?

[RussMachine]

My 770 is a little out.
About .002 in Y, and .0005 in X.
I can live with that, Hell It's not like I'm building a Moon Rocket or anything.

[widget_maker]

Yeah, just did mine again. Increasing the front right shim to 33 thou gets me to 0.5 thou in X but still 2 thou in Y.

Probably time to move on to something else to worry about!

[Beezle]

I just checked the tram on mine tonight. I had fussed over it some 10 months after I bought the machine in Fall, 2012 and it took one shim under the left front foot to get it within .0005 in X and Y over about 10 inches.

Checked it tonight and it was off by about .002 over the same. Ended up moving the shim to the right front foot and now it's back to the above. I'm quite happy with that, though if .002 was the closest I could get I'd be fine with that.