[stabio]

You should try to increase the acceleration if you can....and I'd clear out the room before you cut too much or everything in sight will be wood dust coloured!

I'm still figuring out Mach 3, so I'll have to find a way to accelerate everything. And I'm not cutting anything until i move the machine to another room or industrial space. I can't imagine the look on my parents face if they saw the room filled with dust.

Thanks for the nice comments.

[ron39]

Very nice build! Nice to see another belt drive solsylva represented here on the forums.

Just to let you know about one addition that I've liked on mine has been to add a 1/4" aluminum plate to the front of the Z carriage and drill / tap it to add a K2 router mount. Oh and a dust shroud hooked up to a dust collector is very nice as well definitely keeps the shop clean.

[stabio]

Ok so here is my status on the build:
I tuned the motors so that they move faster
I installed my limit switches (They trigger an e-stop)
However, a wire came loose while jogging the machine and caused my driver board to spark and fry. I am now unable to advance in the build.
Has anyone had a similar situation? What components should be changed on the driver board?
I have a Xylotex 3-axis driver board version 2.03
Thanks

[CarveOne]

I have the Xylotex 3 axis board and popped the Z axis driver. It cost $70 usd to get it repaired. They were fast though. I don't know if they replaced the bad parts or just sent a new board back.

CarveOne

[Kehn]

I just started my build and completed the gantry beam, trying to do at least one thing a day even if it is just cutting something to size.

Anyway, before I get too far along in the construction I am looking at making some changes.

First, using plywood instead of solid wood.

Second, I am extending the Y axis to allow for a 48 inch capacity.

I'm concidering the use of 1/2-10 ACME instead of the 5/16-18 as the lead screws.

Any advice on the leadscew issue? To make the changes, would I just have to punch larger holes and use some different bearings, or is it just not that simple?

Thank you for your time.

[CarveOne]

Lead screw Upgrade - Yes it will surely happen eventually. For reference, I built the 25x37 machine.

Two options to consider:

1. It is possible to lathe turn the 1/2" acme rod ends to 5/16" and use the 7/8" OD bearings specified in the Solsylva plans. If you re-thread the 5/16" machined ends to 5/16-18 you can use this size nut for mounting the rods.

2. If you don't want to machine the rod ends, you will need 1/2" acme nuts for mounting the rods. I went this way so that the ends of the rods are stiffer where the belt and pulleys are.

I used a 1/2" ID bearing that is 1" OD. When I made this acme rod decision I had already bored the holes in the legs and had glued the frame together. When I started installing the x axis rods I discovered that the 1" bearing had an interference fit with the frame and the rods could not be centered in the holes. I recovered by chiseling into the side rail board 1/8" to get enough clearance to get the rods on center and provide some adjustment clearance.

Now that I have the machine running I wish I had spent the money up front for 1/2"-10 5 start acme rods to make best use of the 425 oz/in steppers I have.

CarveOne

[Kehn]

You said you used the Xylotex 425 oz. with your Acme rod...do you think the HobbyCNC 305 oz would work just as well?

[CarveOne]

Kehn,

From the info I've read here on CNC Zone it will move the gantry at the same speed while the stepper motors turn at a lower speed, which is where steppers have the most torque. Consider the 5 start rods versus 1 start rods like a 1:5 gear ratio change to take advantage of the stepper motor's torque/speed curve.

So yes, the HobbyCNC 305 oz stepper would work just as well within the limits of the stepper motor's torque curve. The 425 oz in motor just has a different curve that has more torque at the low speed end of the curve.

CarveOne

[grahamshere]

well been awhile since any one has posted any thing on this thread so here goes, I just installed my 8 tpi 4 start acme or high lead screws. Not as fast as I thought it would be , guess I,m never satisfied , any way 130" ipm which I thought id be getting around 250, regular 10 tpi got me 50 ipm so figured 5 times faster with 8 tpi 4 start right? well my main concern is the shaking, it sways a lot,from the stopping and going. I have it on a stand I built with 2x4,s and have gussets all over plus extra supports screwed to the floor as well as the legs are screwed to the floor. Any body have any ideas what to do? thanks Graham

[Ed_R]

I have a Solsylva belt drive. So far, no issues with speed at all. In fact, I'm finding that with what I need to cut, the machine sometimes doesn't move SLOW enough

[CarveOne]

well been awhile since any one has posted any thing on this thread so here goes, I just installed my 8 tpi 4 start acme or high lead screws. Not as fast as I thought it would be , guess I,m never satisfied , any way 130" ipm which I thought id be getting around 250, regular 10 tpi got me 50 ipm so figured 5 times faster with 8 tpi 4 start right? well my main concern is the shaking, it sways a lot,from the stopping and going. I have it on a stand I built with 2x4,s and have gussets all over plus extra supports screwed to the floor as well as the legs are screwed to the floor. Any body have any ideas what to do? thanks Graham

You can try slowing down the acceleration settings to see if you can reduce the shaking. If your gantry has a lot of mass it will tend to keep going in the same direction when reversed too quickly.

CarveOne

[grahamshere]

hey carveone, well lowering the accel is something I don't want too do, I do a lot of 3d stuff so having a high accel is important. it's not really the machine but the stand I think. ill try and brace it more and eventually build a torsion box, that might help. Graham

[CarveOne]

hey carveone, well lowering the accel is something I don't want too do, I do a lot of 3d stuff so having a high accel is important. it's not really the machine but the stand I think. ill try and brace it more and eventually build a torsion box, that might help. Graham

I looked back in your thread to watch your video again. I don't see much of your stand there but it appears to be a metal framework. If you can add X bracing on all four sides it should help a lot. Make sure to tie the X bracing together securely where it crosses. In my recent work shop build I made work tables of 2x4 lumber, with MDF sheet for the top, and 7/16" OSB for the shelf under the table. These are very rigid. The whole table cost about $65usd.

Your machine looks good. Maybe I should have built one of those.

CarveOne

[grahamshere]

Carve one, that's not my machine, must have me mixed with some one eles. ill take some picts of mine later and maybe a video as well. Graham

[CarveOne]

Carve one, that's not my machine, must have me mixed with some one eles. ill take some picts of mine later and maybe a video as well. Graham

You're right! That video was in Stabio's post, not yours. My mistake. I should have looked closer. Ok, let's see your machine asap then.

CarveOne

[revwarguy]

Ok, its been a long while since this thread's been active, but my Solsylva design got completed in mid 2009 and I just now found this thread, so I thought I would include my build with the pic below. For more information, a log of the build is at www.liming.org/cnc

I found the solsylva build to be easy for a first timer, even with the substitutions I made. One makes trade-offs in all engineering projects, and the trade off of dimensional lumber vs aluminum extrusions for the table allowed me to put more funds toward the software of this thing, which is crucial toward doing anything useful with it. Even still, I found the resulting rigidity and accuracy to be better than what I was expecting.

[CarveOne]

Ok, its been a long while since this thread's been active, but my Solsylva design got completed in mid 2009 and I just now found this thread, so I thought I would include my build with the pic below. For more information, a log of the build is at www.liming.org/cnc

I found the solsylva build to be easy for a first timer, even with the substitutions I made. One makes trade-offs in all engineering projects, and the trade off of dimensional lumber vs aluminum extrusions for the table allowed me to put more funds toward the software of this thing, which is crucial toward doing anything useful with it. Even still, I found the resulting rigidity and accuracy to be better than what I was expecting.

You were building yours about the same time I was building my Solsylva 25x37. I wish now that I had built the belt drive machine from the Solsylva plans but I now have some 5 start screws for it and will redesign the gantry and Z axis. It will get steel rails and Ahren's carriages. It will also get a G540 to eventually replace the Xylotex controller. It is not dead, just neglected while building my larger machine. This will then make a good guitar building machine with a decent speed.

CarveOne

[rdpdo]

I have build a solsylva 25x25 and I've got A LOT of problem with the plans... beld that fail to attach on pulley, wrong angle...

Well try another plan.

[louieatienza]

I've built the 25 x 37 and had no problems, despite changing the design slightly to work with the components I have. Great support as well...

My build here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...898#post784898