[rc_flyer]

Carve_one,

The only change I had to make to fit the larger rods was to put a small spacer between gantry ends and the piece that holds the lead nut. Wouldnt't fit without it due to size of the coupler. I think i use half of the difference between the 5/16 rod and the 1/2 inch rod to get the dimansion, to keep it centered.

[CarveOne]

Don,

Thanks for the photo and info. I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to resolve the leadscrew and drive pulley, belt, and stepper system issues and then start working on the gantry. Last will be the Z axis construction.

I'm spending too much time on the computer reading about CNC and not enough time working on the CNC router build. I'll be checking here every day but spending more time building.

Please post a photo of your router taken during a parts cutting session if you don't mind. The more wood chip and dust the better. Maybe the jealousy will help speed up my build........

CarveOne

[Ahshucks]

Just got the plans and struggled through the introduction page before falling asleep. Despite this, I'm very excited about getting started on this project. Please describe any assembly details or tricks you used that would be usefull. Thanks!

[CarveOne]

Ahshucks,

You'll find what you need to know in the CarveOne and pulmelloman build log subforums. pulmelloman is building his 25x37 table pretty much like the plans book shows and I have been building mine with some upgrades like red oak and purple heart wood parts and 1/2-10 acme lead screws with anti-backlash nuts. I'm using Xylotex controller and 425 oz/in steppers.

A search for Solsylva routers will find other build logs also. rc_flyer has made some recent upgrades to his router recently that you might want to consider.

Make a decision on which Solsylva machine appeals to you most, read all you can, and join in the home cnc madness.

CarveOne

[ron39]

Ahshucks,

Welcome to the club! Which machine were you thinking of making? In addition to the CarveOne and Pulmelloman builds there are the belt drive tables that jsfjet, coogrrr and I built.

Jsfjet's I think is straight from the plans, I've increased the width of the table, and coogrrr - well, he upgraded his a little.

The belt drive table is a little more involved and takes up more space. I spent just shy of 3 months putting mine together to the point where I could start cutting (but that was with just a few hours some nights and a few on weekends).

Good luck with your build - let us know how it goes.

[Kehn]

Howdy all,

I have been lurking in the backgroiund reading as much as I can get from all the posts on the DIY issues. I puchased the plans a few weeks back and am looking to build the belt drive system. I'll be buying a few parts each payday and then putting it together on the weekends. I'l planning on this taking a few months.

I have the tools to build this, and what I don't have I have access to.

The question I have is what issues are there if I use a full size router (larger bits) on this instead of the trim router? -- looking for the "Can do, but..." or the "Don't even go there." kinda things.

Any advice would be welcome.

[CarveOne]

Kehn,

If you have the room for it the belt drive table is the one to go with. Follow ron39's suggestion to read through the build logs that he mentions for things to improve the original design. With a little more cost and following their suggestions you will have a faster, more accurate cnc machine.

Keep in mind that David's plans have some things that lower the cost but still work adequately for first time builders on a very limited budget. If you don't do the upgrades during your build you can upgrade it later, but why buy the parts twice and do more work?

You can use larger routers in the 1.5 to 2hp range without adding a lot more weight. Also, remember that these are fully supported rails even though they are just pipe and channel construction on lumber. There are many ways to change the design if you wish to add more expensive rail systems.

CarveOne

[bjacquet@centur]

(group)(group)(group)
Kehn,
I build a Sosylva a year ago (the big one with 1 belt) and I 'd like to share my experience. It is a very valuable machine for my shop(I make guitars).
The design is great and the book is very helpful. Everything is made to get you started in the CNC.
Even if that was my first machine, right away I was thinking upgrading a few things to make it more production orientated.
1/ the material:
The gantry main beam is in Walnut
The main frame is in oak
The Z axis was upgraded in Aluminum
2/ The leadscrews
5/8 acme from Enco
3/ 3 Driver from Kelinginc
3 steppers 425oz also from Kelinginc
Delrin nuts I made myself with the left over of the 5/8 acme screw

You will need access to a lathe for the end of the leadscrew.
The result: 170 Inches/mn
My goal was more production than hooby but CNC is highly addictive and you will not regret the extra money.
Stay tuned,
Bruno Jacquet
Jacquet Guitars

[planekrazie]

Great thread.

[tgreening]

I'm curious if anyone ever had the inclination to convert some of the plan parts to cad files. It seems a number of the parts would lend themselves well to being cut on the router via cnc, such as the motor mounts, some of the z-axis components, etc. I know when I build mine the accuracy of some of the finished products left a bit to be desired. I'm sure the machine itself would cut the parts much better than I ever could with my handsaws and such but since I'm jussst a bit lacking in the cad dept. I'm hopeful that someone else already had the gumption to do it.

[gmfoster]

I'm curious if anyone ever had the inclination to convert some of the plan parts to cad files. It seems a number of the parts would lend themselves well to being cut on the router via cnc, such as the motor mounts, some of the z-axis components, etc. I know when I build mine the accuracy of some of the finished products left a bit to be desired. I'm sure the machine itself would cut the parts much better than I ever could with my handsaws and such but since I'm jussst a bit lacking in the cad dept. I'm hopeful that someone else already had the gumption to do it.

Well for a lot of the simpler stuff you just need to sit down and write gcode to do it.

A9 cad for free and Ace converter also free should let you cut any of the simpler pieces.


Garry

[Kehn]

When I see builders talking about buying the motor/drivers for thier CNCs, they often get the 4 axis rather than just the 3 axis...why?

Also, have any of the HobbyCNC systems had resonance issues?

[grahamshere]

Hey Kehn I think the reason for 4 drives is to slave 1 for the x axis so you would not use the belt, which is a good idea if your going to build this machine, I wish I did. Graham

[Buzz9075]

I bought 4 axis for several reasons:
1 - if one drive failed I had a backup on site
2 - if the electronics failed I had a backup path to move the axis to the forth channel (by reconfiguring Mach 3) - This I have already used twice to fix a heat sink problem with the first axis
3 - possible expansion to 4 axis in the future
4 - potential for new machines with a slave drive on one axis (Which Joe's 4 * 4 machine will need when I build it)

I figured that was enough to spend a few extra dollars on day one.

BuzzArt

[thkoutsidthebox]

I bought a fourth axis because I already had three axis and upgrading to a 4th was necessary for my new machine with a heavier gantry, and it seemed more sensible than totally replacing my 3rd axis with a single bigger motor.

A year on, I have had NO issues with my HobbyCNC kit. It is a workhorse.

[swbogart]

I've just finished my router based on David Steele's plans from solsylva.com
I based mine on the 25x37 plans but cut it down to 25x25 to save some space in my overloaded shop.
Pics are here: http://pinrestore.com/coppermine/thu...s.php?album=15

So far, everything has gone pretty well. I did have trouble with the gantry end plates I made out of clear pine. When I mounted the X bearings the carriage bolts split the corners right out. I redid them with oak and solved that problem. Another change I made was using thin nylon locknuts everywhere I could, having read a few posts about nuts coming loose. My leadscrews are 5/8-16 grade B7 threaded rods from McMaster-Carr. They cost slightly more than the plain steel ($4.31 vs $2.81 for a 6 footer) but they have Class 2A thread tolerance which is tighter than the 1A found on plain allthread. Instead of spending money on Acme screws I spent mine on Gecko drives. I'm getting 70 ipm rapids with little to no resonance. Steppers are 282 oz-in KL23H276-30-8B from Keling.

My control system uses a CNC4PC C11G breakout board and 3 G203V Gecko drives. Power supply is an Antek 48VDC 10A toroidal with bridge rectifier and filter caps. I've got it mounted on wood until I get the connections and wiring stabilized, then I'll build it into a PC case.

Haven't made anything yet. Still figuring out Mach3.

Scot

[gmfoster]

Looks super.. Enjoy using it!

Garry

[stabio]

Hi everyone, im Jimmy and i have been building the belt driven router table for a while now. I recently finished Cegep so I had time recently to finish my machine. It is almost complete. I still have to mount limit switches, route the wiring out of the way, learn a couple things about mach 3 and install a router.
Here is a video of my cnc's first movements. You'll notice that i also built my Driver box out of plexiglass make it that much more interesting.

[ame="http://youtube.com/watch?v=a52K--Lp9sg"]YouTube - Homemade CNC Router[/ame]

[Micro Rotors]

Jimmy,

Very Nice! It looks and sounds great, congratulations ... now lets see her finished up.

I like the plex driver box, a little personal touch

Bill

[thkoutsidthebox]

Looks Great! Nice job. The plexi box looks real good. I like the metal gantry also, thats a good idea. You should try to increase the acceleration if you can....and I'd clear out the room before you cut too much or everything in sight will be wood dust coloured!