[Goose80]

Last question, do you have some cad drawings of your gentry?

I am using a machmate machine but with simular to your gentry.

I need dimensions of steel profiles used...
I can show you a cad drwaing of my machine...

[la_coterie]

Here you go, Goos80 (with a name like that arn't you feeling nervous at this time of year ) dxf of the Y axis, only uses 25 x 25 x 1.5mm tube and is really solid with minimal weight, though with that servo... and the spindle weight 15kg I think... It's still a heavy lump though I can still move it easily enough.

Usual discalimer with the drawings - if you break you leg don't come running to me

At this point I'm not sure about the uprights, I think they might sway so there could be come external bracing to do

[Goose80]

Hehe, We in Norway are not Eating Ducks and Gooses for xmas so this time I not concern

Thank you for DXF. It will help me a lot. The only think is that I am using another support for Y-axis.

As for the weight I am not afraid. I will use 1160Oz-in motors and If they are to week I can always gear them ones or twise as you done.

And with Gecko 203V it will fork very well...

[Goose80]

Are you using M8 screw to support shafts?

[Goose80]

Hello.
What is a specification of belts you are using?

[la_coterie]

Hi Goose80,
I'm sure I put a reply to no.44 - I'll do it again..
Yes M8 studs evry 300-400mm otherwise it'll bend, despite being 25mm solid diameter

I'm using 15mm wide belts in T5 form - that's 5mm pitch & here's the guy I got them from in Holland. Great guy gets my vote!
http://www.stappenmotor.nl/
does good english, a bit of french & erm, dutch I guess:lol

[la_coterie]

:banana: I think this deserves a dancing banana!

A quiet xmas. Kept all the relatives away and got to work in my playroom. The table is basically made, still got to do some braces below, when I've decided how high to mount them. The legs will have adjustable feet though at the mo wheels would be better due to cramped building conditions.

The gantry whizzes up and down superbly, there is some whip, wiggling, but when the belts are connected I don't think this will be an issue.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel although it's a only a pinprick at the minute

I think I must have perfected the perfect router table here as nobody has chirped in

[WilliamD]

I have to admit, I'm waiting on building my CNC router, until I have my CNC mill done, so I can build something very similar to your rollers. It will be a cross between your idea and some others. I really do like your design. One question though, that table with those legs seems like it would be pretty wobbly. Are you going to reinforce it? Maybe some cross braces? Kudos on your progress so far! :rainfro:

[la_coterie]

Yeah, I know what you mean about wobbly, I thought that too when it was on the drawing board. It really suprised me that it's so solid. But yes there is some bracing to put in. I've got an enclosure to mount underneath so I'm gonna put braces to mount that. kill 2 birds with one stone so to speak

I would imagine that if I left it like that it would move about doing some rapids.

Do the cnc mill to do the router... I know the feeling. so many catch 22's !

[Kipper]

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel although it's a only a pinprick at the minute

Be aware that the light at the end of the tunnel can be a guy with a torch bringing more work.... Sorry it just struck me as funny

[la_coterie]

love it

[venomx999]

I have these servo motors with encoders, made by Shinano Kenshi, 30volt 1.5amp.

If anyone wants them, let me know.

[la_coterie]

(wrong)

[la_coterie]

Hi All,

Been a while, I've rather busy with business but now things are moving on again.
I've attached a video link for your amusement of the Y axis doing 21m/min
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?...98931643396274

[P.Passuello]

Like the look of your skate-o-rail. Think I will try and build one this weekend to see how it goes. As a suggestion how would it go if the 2 center plates were removed and the 25mm x 10mm steel with the bearings in them went end to end. I find it hard to believe that steel that heavy will flex over that distance but I have been wrong before. This would mean only 2 end plates would need to be machined making construction easier but maybe you have already tried this.
Your machine looks great. I hope my next one looks as good.

Cheers
Peter

Once I thought I was wrong but I was mistaken!

[la_coterie]

Yeah I thought of that, after the event. I guess it will depend how far apart the 2 ends are.
I reckon it would work with 200mm between then assuming the bearings are near each end.
The only slight concern I would have is the reducing of the mounting points for the gantry & Z axis.

Keep me informed, as you say it halves the plates to make and I'm all for that!

[Melvin]

Great execution. Please report back on the half plate experience. I've got some 1.5" linear rail I've got to make bearings for and this looks like the ticket. Even better if the number of plates could be reduced by half.

[la_coterie]

Well has it really been 18months since I started this thread!

I guess that's the problem with hobbies - they take the back burner when work gets in the way.

The router is more - or - less finished and has cut some great signs. I still need to make something to adjust each side of the X axis so that it will cut a real square but it's not far out as it sits.

I'll post some piccys in the next couple of days and give some more insight on my findings with this design.

[la_coterie]

Here's a few shots as it stands now, sorry the photos seem fuzzy.

I've got to take it apart shortly to move & paint it, something I'm not looking forward to

The design:
the table is made from 80 x 40 x 3mm tube and it rock solid. I should have made the gantry out of it as well weight straight down is fine but it can be made to twist.

Belt drive - does it work?

so so, would I use it again - no. I have steel braced T5 x 15 on the X and that still has some give on it. I could probably tension it some more if I had more adjustment. (This is a 120cm x 120cm travel machine) on a smaller machine I guess it would be acceptable...maybe.
Yes, some might say the belts are too small but then buying bigger belts would probably be as expensive as ballscrews! If starting from the begining again I think I would use ballscrews, in the end it doesn't come out any more expensive.

The X is driven both sides and the side without the motor does seem weaker which I put down to the size of the cross shaft - only 15mm over 1300mm so it does wind up, I'm guessing I need something about 30mm But I knew that when I started

Ideally the gantry uprights need angling so that the cutter force comes down inbetween the X carriages, and Aluminium for them is a waste of time - too much flex despite being 10mm. Go get a decent lump of half inch steel plate

I use Mach Quantum which suits this machine rather well. cutting the road runner file on normal Mach3 was horrendous, immediatly suggesting things need beefing up

On the good side, my home brew rails seem to do the job, as best I can tell, time will tell.

Would I do it again? not like that, but then thats what the experience is about.

save yourself the grief & uncertainty and go and buy some linear rails and ball screws and a load of industrial strength steel tube!

At least I've got my Tee shirt now

[la_coterie]

Just a couple of piccies of it painted - only has one coat but looks much better. I changed the rear cross shaft for one of 25mm, but I haven't actually used it in anger since doing it...
It had to come out of its original build placeandmore to this "hole" thats not much bigger than the actual router! It is in fact all back together now and has been for a long time, I'm just rather lazy in getting some electric to it.