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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59

    First Machine -JGRO

    I've been looking on this web site for a long time and finally am starting to build something. I decided on JGRO for a first machine mostly for the great detailed drawings, thank you for them.
    I'm using Baltic ply, about 3/4 and 3/8, at least that's what it's supposed to be but doesn't quite measure 3/4 and 3/8. The ply was left over from another project.
    I'm planning to use 3/8 rod and Lovejoy couplers. I have everything cut out except for the router bracket, haven't made up my mind what to use for a router. Any suggestions would be welcome. I also have most of the holes drilled and threaded, used CA to strengthen the threads.
    I've built the torture, excuse me torsion boxes, these use 3/8 ply and 1/2 MDF for the tops.
    I'll post some pictures next week.
    The one thing I can't seem to find at least at Lowes Or 3 Home Depots in this area is the 1 1/4 aluminum angle. Can 1 1/2 be used instead or does that screw up alignment ? Any suggestions here?
    I'm sure I'll be back with more questions, especially for the electronics and software. This is a great web site!
    Wally

  2. #2
    I've been looking on this web site for a long time and finally am starting to build something
    I also lurked for a long time on this site before posting, then jumped in and built the JGRO. Learned alot just by reading all the great posts.

    haven't made up my mind what to use for a router
    I went with a "Trim router" as my first spindle. It's light enough that I didn't worry about the weight being moved by the Z axis motor. It's a 28000 rpm rated at 700watts. It cuts just fine at 50ipm, but I usually just cut at 30ipm.

    Good luck with your build! Lots of people here have built the jgro and you can find many pictures of their machines on this site.

    Don't forget to consider having some sort of dust collection. That's one area I am now working on.

    Thunterman

  3. #3
    The one thing I can't seem to find at least at Lowes Or 3 Home Depots in this area is the 1 1/4 aluminum angle.
    Try your local small hardware store. I found 1 1/4" angle at a business called "Metal Supermarket". They specialize in small quantities of metal. You could also order on-line at http://www.onlinemetals.com/

    Thunterman

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    Thank you for your reply thunterman. I gave up looking for the aluminum angle and used the "onlinemetals" site you suggested. By the way,what is the trim router brand?
    Wally

  5. #5
    By the way,what is the trim router brand?
    I found a "cheap" trim router at the local Mernards home center. I believe the brand is "Tool Shop". It was only $28, so you get what you pay for. It's not a quality tool, but works for what I need it for. I will upgrade to a variable speed router in the future.
    You can see a picture of the trim router on my web pages at
    http://cnc.hobby-site.com/cnc.htm

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    Well, I've managed to get some assembly done, don't seem to be as fast as most of the builds I read about on CNCZone.
    I'm using baltic ply and MDF skins on the torsion boxes, I'm also using 3/8-16 screw and Lovejoy couplers. I think I have all the machine parts and they're all cut out now. Lots more drilling and tapping though.
    Any suggestions on electronics and software would be welcome.
    Wally
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Adj Block.bmp   Gantry.bmp   Messy shop.bmp  

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    727
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyh
    Well, I've managed to get some assembly done, don't seem to be as fast as most of the builds I read about on CNCZone.
    Nicely done! It may be taking you longer than some of the other people building from those plans, but, that's gonna be one nice lookin' JGRO CNC table. My JGRO table took me about a year from start to first cut. Lots of delays due to weather, work, family, the electronics, finances, etc., etc., etc. Take your time and do it right the first time. Looking forward to seeing more pics of your progress.


    Very impressive,

    HayTay
    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1316
    That's good work,very clean. It should be a very good looking router when finished.

    Electronics:
    I use the hobbycnc kit with my JGRO, get the 200oz/inch motors. www.hobbycnc.com


    Software:
    Mach3 to control the motors. www.artofcnc.com


    Jason

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    Thank all of you for the tips and the encouragement. If all goes well, I should have some more pics by the end of the week, my garage (shop) gets full afternoon sun so my work days are short now!

    Is the hobbycnc kit fairly easy to put together? Assuming average soldering skills?

    Looking ahead (way ahead), would a 766 Mhz proccesor be able to run the software?
    What operating system? Would ME work or would XP be better? The computer above has a pretty empty 30 GB hard drive and 256 MB memory, video is on the motherboard.
    Wally

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Mach3 only works with Win2K or XP. ME won't work. A 766 is on the low end, but might work OK. The only way to know for sure is download it and try it. It's fully functional for up to 1000 lines of code in Demo mode.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyh
    Is the hobbycnc kit fairly easy to put together? Assuming average soldering skills?
    I put together a hobbycnc kit and it went together smoothly with no problems and fired up smoke free during the first test. The instructions were complete and easy to follow. I had done some soldering before but not much so I'd say my skills were average at the time.

    Mike

  12. #12
    Looking ahead (way ahead), would a 766 MHz processor be able to run the software?
    I run Mach2/3 on a HP 500MHZ K6-2+ laptop running WinXp Pro with most of the services turned off. You can find a "tuning guide" for Mach3 that will show how to disable un-necessary services and other programs that will allow Mach2/3 to run smoothly. The 755 MHz computer should be plenty fast enough to run Mach2/3.

    Thunterman

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    First of all, thank you for all your helpful inputs, I'll be using most of them, so keep them coming. I'm pretty sure I will use a hobbycnc kit, I used to be able to solder in the old days.
    I've been plugging along and have the Gantry almost done, all parts cut and varnished. I still have to cut the grooves, not too good with a router though.
    Wally
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Assembled gantry.bmp   Rear Brace, Gantry.bmp   Rear, Gantry.bmp   Side, Gantry.bmp  


  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    I'm still plugging along, will post some more pictures soon. Where do you get the spacers, like dtl 26 ? I can't seem to find anything! Soon as I get the spacers the Y axis should be done. I finished polishing the black pipe ( I know now why they call it black pipe) and it's certainly smoother now.
    I also received the hobbycnc kit with 200 oz/in motors, and plan to use Mach3 as Jason suggested. Need to get my nerve up and start soldering.
    Wally

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    727
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyh
    Where do you get the spacers, like dtl 26 ? I can't seem to find anything! Soon as I get the spacers the Y axis should be done.
    On the Y Linear Guide Assy (cnc_assy08) I used double hex nuts instead of the spacers shown in cnc_dtl26. The 0.012" (2 x 0.266 = 0.532 > 0.520) it's off isn't worth the trouble as it doesn't seem to make much of a difference when the machine is assembled/finished. If you start using a caliper on the nuts you'll find they are different thicknesses, anyway. If you're really worried about it you can measure a bunch of the hex nuts to find pairs of them that are closer to the 0.520" dimension called for in the drawings. Trust me, though, it's not really worth it.

    Looking for the spacers JGRO used in cnc_dtl26 will drive you "nuts", literally and figuratively!

    I'm glad to hear your still "plugging along" and await pictures of your progress. Keep up the good work.
    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    Back again, a little more done, at least it's taking shape now. Thanks for all the help, HayTay for the nuts idea and Mike (mb 0978) for the pipe polishing idea. I used a hole cutter and duct tape for the coupling. my reach between the drill trigger and the end of the long pipe was maximum for me. The pipe polished up good and it's certainly smoother than the original pipe was.
    The gantry slides very well but I still need to shim things up because the pipes are both at the limit of their adjustment holes.
    Can't remember if I said this or not but I used knockdown furniture hardware to hold parts together, everything seems good and tight.
    Next trick is to figure out how to use my router for the rest of the parts.
    Wally
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pipe Polishing.bmp   Assembly 1.bmp   Assembly 2.bmp  

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    Some more progress, a couple of pictures of the x and x and z axis. just dry fitted, need to seal, ca threads, and assemble for real. I haven't settled on a router yet, I'm leaning toward a trim router - any recommendations? Or, am I going down the wrong path?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X axis.bmp   X and Z axis.bmp  

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    59
    Another question, are the 1/4" dowels just pressed in or are they glued? These are used to reinforce the joints aren't they?
    Thanks, wally

  19. #19
    Another question, are the 1/4" dowels just pressed in or are they glued? These are used to reinforce the joints aren't they?
    I never used the dowels when I built my jgro.

    Don't forget to put a coating of shellac or paint on before your final assembly. Looking very good so far.

    Thunterman

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    727
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyh
    Another question, are the 1/4" dowels just pressed in or are they glued? These are used to reinforce the joints aren't they?
    Thanks, wally
    Here's a link to a post by JGRO, himself, concerning the 1/4" dowels:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=15

    I just tapped my 1/4" steel dowels in lightly using the handle of a screwdriver (I always use the right tool for the job, obviously ). I didn't use any glue, the hole diameter/depth provided a sufficient friction fit to hold the dowels in place. I was high enough from all of the CA glue used to strengthen the threads in all of the tapped holes. I also wanted to be able to easily reclaim the steel pins and use them again once I built another table.
    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!

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