[Jabs1542]

So it's been a couple of months since I have done any milling (that day job keeps getting in the way) and as I was working last night I discovered I couldn't get one of my tools into the collet (quickly inserting it using a PDB). Then I noticed that the shank had a lot of corrosion on it!!! I store my tools the top shelf of a cart, and hold them in a piece of 2x12 that was cut down to size with 3/4" holes for holding the tools. Here come the questions:

1) Has anyone seen corrosion on their tool shanks? Note that only 8 of them did this, mostly on the back row, and not all of them (the cart was up against the back wall and my shop is in the sub-basement). In fact, the Fly Cutter was in the middle of the "infected area" and it's still clean and looks brand new.

2) I used 600 grit sandpaper to clean off the rust, can I still use these tool holders? They didn't clean perfectly. Is there a better way to clean them?

3) Is my storage method the problem? I guess it is possible that moisture has gotten into the wood. Note that the cart is normally in the middle of the shop, I moved it out of the way to do something else and that's when it got placed near the back wall. It should also be noted that we have had a ton of rain these past couple of months.

I will work on getting pictures posted later this morning.

Thanks,
Jay

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Storing tools in wood is a bad idea. Aside from the fact that wood holds moisture, it also contains acids that will encourage corrosion. It also helps to give everything a shot of WD40 when not in use. I buy it in gallon cans, and always have a spray bottle full to keep the machine and tools coated.

Regards,
Ray L.

[RussMachine]

Soak your 2x12 tool rack with WD-40, or smear the holes with Vaseline

[tmarks11]

I store my tools the top shelf of a cart, and hold them in a piece of 2x12 that was cut down to size with 3/4" holes for holding the tools. ...Is my storage method the problem? I guess it is possible that moisture has gotten into the wood.

Yes and yes. Wood is a hygroscopic substance, and readily absorbs moisture from the air. You probably started off with kiln dried lumber (moisture content of 12-15%), and it has been steadily absorbing moisture out of the air in your basement (which generally has a decently high humidity).

I would recommend two steps:
1. Get rid of the wood storage rack. Cut one out of a plastic cutting board from Walmart.... decently thick material, won't hold moisture, easy to clean and cheap.
2. Get a roll-around 50-70 pint (per day!) dehumidifier for your sub-basement (~$170-200). Run it for 1/2 hour each day.... they work really well, and you will be surprised at the moisture it pulls out of the air. This will save you a lot of grief, as it will keep your mill from rusting as well.

If you really want to do it right, get one of the permanently suspended units (like a air sponge or Sante Fe, much more $$$) and plumb it with a drain line, and it will cycle on and off to keep your humidity at the right level. It will make your basement much more pleasant to work in, and will keep mold and rust away.

I will disagree with my estimated colleague above (sorry Ray) and recommend you spritz your tools with real oil... I am not a fan of WD40, it is designed to be a multi-use formula (cleaning...and protecting), and doesn't do either of those two things well. The mineral spirits in it clean, and then dissipate, leaving a gummy, waxy protectant over time... I would recommend doing a quick wipe of your tools with a citrus based cleaner, and then wiping them with a light oil before storing them.

[mike sr]

I use wood holders also, I soak the wood with motor oil or Tranny fluid first, then I have no problem with rust or corrosion.

I dont use the water based coolant either, that really helps with the discoloration/staining/rust problem that I had.

I also have AC in the shop for those humid/hot days. I manufacture Tuned exhaust systems out of thin gage steel, and they will rust if the humidity gets a bit high.

I also buy wd40 by the gallon. I also use about 10 percent Corrosion X mixed with kerosene to give metal parts a light coat of oil, the kero dries after a time but leaves a thin coating on the steel parts.

[mioduz]

Another suggestion that I have would be to use pvc lumber instead of traditional wood lumber

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[menzzer37]

I always buy carbide never rusts!

[johnedward]

I always buy carbide never rusts!

carbide tts tools?

[menzzer37]

Oh sorry read shank and though he was saying end mills. Never had an issue with tts shanks rusting.

[Steve Seebold]

I always buy carbide never rusts!

If they made carbide TTS holders, no one could afford them.

I use only carbide end mills, but I also use the TTS holders from Tormach and good coolant, and I have NEVER has a rust or corrosion problem. EVER.

[Jabs1542]

Thanks for all the ideas, researching humidifiers now, went to the local Ikea and bought some cutting boards to make a new tool tray.

I answered part of question 2. For reference one of the culprits was my 1/2" Aluminum EM, this one was notorious for pull out issues (resolved once I got the PDB tightened down just right), so I was weary that a rust cleaned shank would hold up. I had a job to run and typically hog things out with the 1/2" EM, turns out it worked fine. So the bottom line is that you CAN clean these things off.

I took a short piece of rod and used it to couple the TTS holder with my hand drill. This have me a way to spin it while I held the 600 grit sandpaper with my hand on the shank end - worked like a charm. That saved me a couple hundred bucks by not having to replace all of those holders.

[MichaelHenry]

I've used tool storage racks made from maple for quite a few years and coated them with either polyurethane or tung oil. No corrosion with either type of coating so far.

Mike

[GLCarlson]

I took a short piece of rod and used it to couple the TTS holder with my hand drill. This have me a way to spin it while I held the 600 grit sandpaper with my hand on the shank end - worked like a charm. That saved me a couple hundred bucks by not having to replace all of those holders.

Have you checked runout? I'd expect for bigger endmills -say, 3/8 or 1/2 or so- this would work, but for smaller stuff (ER collet holders, 1/8 end mills) there might be a problem. Would be interesting to have before and after data, but I don't suppose you have any extra holders you'd like to rust in the interest of science...

[Connor]

You all have me a little worried now. I JUST made a 30 piece TTS Tool rack this past weekend. I laminated two 3/4" Birch Plywood for 1.5" thick board and then routed out the holes. I would have used HDPE but, I didn't have any to use ATM. My shop is a attached room to the house (was a utility room for clothes washer and dryer.). But, fortunately I do have a A/C duct from the house running into the room, so humidity is low and it stays decently comfortable most of the year. I live in TN so, humidity is always a problem, but not seen any issues in the shop. I do use water soluble coolant. Thoughts?

Thanks, Billy

[GLCarlson]

Billy, I'd follow the advice above and use heavy grease, oil, or some such on the board. Wood is hygroscopic even if you control the humidity, and somewhat acidic (think tannic acid and phenols). A layer of something oily should be pretty effective, though. Or, how about enlarging and then lining the holes with plastic pipe? The white water pipe (or gray electrical stuff) both turn easily so you could make a bushing with a small lip and it'd look good.

[slowtwitch]

I've been using a wood tool rack for sometime and have no issues with tool corrosion. One thing I would not do... is use bare wood, for the reasons mentioned. I painted my tool rack with two coats of paint and three coats of water based poly that is used on floors. This included the back side and all the holes.

Attachment 239740

[mountaindew]

I've been using a wood tool rack for sometime and have no issues with tool corrosion. One thing I would not do... is use bare wood, for the reasons mentioned. I painted my tool rack with two coats of paint and three coats of water based poly that is used on floors. This included the back side and all the holes.

Attachment 239740

I like your design! Always looking for holder layouts and designs.

I clean all my tts with alcohol every couple days.
Figuring this will improve holding in the r8 collet and a good practice in general.
Using a open bottom inert material tool holder like plastic has helped keep them clean, dry and ready to use .
No oils or grease contaminates on or near the tool holders.
Pull all the tools out and wash racks with dish soap ... cleans wd40 and other grime off fast.
I keep the racks small enough to fit in sink and this also keeps the weight down.
Attachment 239750
I do keep things clean and who knows I might be doing medical work with this thing some day.
md

[Don Clement]

I have stored my TTS tools for the last 5 years in a wooden rack made from fir or pine and have had no corrosion issues. +1 on WD40 I also buy by the gallon. However up here in the mountains @6Kft moisture is extremely low YMMV.

Don Clement

[WOTDesigns]

Drawers worked better for me when I was in the one car garage so I took a dremel to some HF drawer organizers. Great for holding tools, but in the unfinished garage I still got some corrosion here and there. I hit em with green Scotch Brite and wd40 then wiped em down with a rag or alcohol if needed. Never had any problems with runout or holding.
I keep thinking about running a batch of those organizers on the Haas since they actually fit but don't know if anyone would actually want them


Attachment 239864

Brian
WOT Designs