A member asked for instructions on how to tear down the spindle and get to the drawbar so I figured I'd make a post here that way if anyone else needs to know how it's done they can benefit from it as well.
Step 1: Remove the lower spindle cover.
This cover is on two hinges on the side closest to the operator. On the far side of the spindle there are two screws which hold the cover shut. Unscrewing these screws allows the cover to swing open. On the bottom of that cover there are two screws which hold the coolant manifold in place. Unscrew those two screws to free the manifold. Unplug the wires that connect to the lamp. Now an extra set of hands will make this part easier. Have someone hold the cover, taking pressure off of the hinges. Use and thin, long object to push out the pins in the hinges. Once the pins are out the cover can be moved out of the way.
Attachment 282528
Attachment 282530
Step 2: Separate the two spindle shafts.
First you need to remove the black bracket under the hydraulic unclamping cylinder to give you enough room the get an allen wrench onto the screws that are holding the two shafts together.
Attachment 282532
Step 3: Remove the spindle cartridge
First unscrew the screws holding the spindle cartridge in place. Once unscrewed the cartridge should remain in the spindle assembly by friction alone. I recommend putting some wood blocks underneath in case it just falls out but chances are it will sit in there. You will need to use 2 M10 screws to jack the spindle out little by little.
Attachment 282534
Keep in mind that the perimeter of the spindle cartridge is cooled with cooling oil so have an oil pan on your machine table to catch the oil that will come pouring out. Once you let all the oil drain you can continue onward with pulling the cartridge out.
Attachment 282536
Attachment 282538
You can now do what you need to do to the spindle cartridge. The drawbar is easy to get to. It is held in place by the friction of an oring so all you have to do is pull on the fork to get it out.
Attachment 282540
If your spindle is not clamping the tool properly then it could be one of the following. The hydraulic clamping cylinder is not returning to the clamp position (towards the top). The hydraulic cylinder does not do the actual clamping. It only unclamps the tool. The belleville washer springs are what actually provide the force for clamping the tool. The washer springs could be fatigued and no longer provide the proper force so they would need to be replaced. One or both of the pull stud fingers may be broken.
Drawbar assembly pictured below without the belleville washers installed.
Attachment 282542
Attachment 282544
After unscrewing the collet finger nut the nut should slide out and then the fingers can be pulled out individually and now you have access to the belleville washer springs.
Do all the repairs you need and then reassemble the spindle in reverse order. One thing I recommend you do when putting the spindle cartridge back in the spindle is to use a car jack to push it back into position. Also make sure that the keys on the lower spindle shaft line up with the keyways on the upper spindle shaft when you are jacking the cartridge back into place. If they are not lined up and you jack up the cartridge into the upper shaft it will shift the upper bearing or bearings (depending on if you have a 6000rpm spindle or 10000 rpm spindle) and could cause some damage.
Hope this helps and if you have any questions feel free to ask.