[tauntdesigns]

Howdy,

I just finished my first enclosure over the last few weeks, and now it's time to do the machine conversion. I searched for a thread on how to install this kit and have decided to just dive in.
Enclosure thread:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42921

I found a thread that had a link to pdf guide for the preparation of the machine that helped with the tear down.

I'll be replacing the bearing blocks and lead screws, so I took a few short cuts on the X&Y axis tear down.

X-Axis: I locked down the X-axis, then removed the cap screws from the bearing block on the end of the table with the hand wheel. I then turned the hand wheel counter-clockwise, this pulled the bearing block loose from the table and pulled the other end of the lead screw from the other bearing block. I then slid the table off, and removed the other bearing block.

Be careful and wear gloves, the table has allot of sharp edges (everything has sharp edges) I guess they don't have files in china.lol

Y-Axis: I removed the hand wheel, bearing block, and removed the y-axis saddle. Flip saddle over and remove the bolts that attach the x-axis brass nut block. I then pulled the machine forward till about 4" of the machine hung over the front edge of bench. This allows access to the bolts that attach the y-axis brass nut block.

Ready to start assembly of the x&y axis, I still scared of the Z-axis tear down and assembly, so I'll start that tomorrow.

The ball nut blocks don't have taper pin holes, so here's what I did to align the blocks.
I attached (bolts snug) the x-axis ball screw assembly to the y-saddle, slid x-table and gib into the y-saddle, adjusted gib, bolted the x bearing block to the end of table and finished tightening the ball nut block to the y-saddle. To keep the weight down I removed the table again by unbolting the bearing block and slid the table off.

I slid the y-saddle onto the machine base and slid it back against the z column. To get the y-axis ball screw/nut assembly in place I needed to lift the saddle up just a hair for the ball nut flange to pass over the nut block pad and snug up the bolts. I Slid the saddle back to the bearing block, installed and adjusted gib, bolted the bearing block the the saddle and tighten the ball nut block.

It's time to remount the x-table, gib, and tighten the bearing block to the end of the table.

Now it's time to tackle the ZZZZZZZZ

Cheers,
Jack

[tauntdesigns]

Howdy,

I started the Z today?
I cranked the the z towards the top of the machine, cut a piece of 2 by 4
to put under the head and cranked it down till the head rested on it. I removed the lower back panel and disconnected the green ground wires from the base of machine. Removed four bolts holding the back cabinet and then moved the cabinet to the side of the machine without unhooking the motor wires.

Next I removed both side plates that connect the head to the lead screw. I didn't remove the locking screw (z's), the side plate on that side will not come off without removing the locking screw but, it will allow the plate to come far enough to come off the pins that hold it together.
I then unbolted the top and bottom bearing blocks and pulled the whole assembly off the machine.

Time to dis-assemble the z-axis lead screw. I started unscrewing the lead screw from the brass nut, the top bearing block will come down and hit the brass nut, keep unscrewing and the top block will press off. Keep going till the brass nut comes off, remove the four bolts that holds the brass nut to the cast iron support piece. I took a punch and tried to hammer the taper pin out. Did I say, I tried to remove the taper pin, It would not even move a little bit. Yes, I made sure that I was going the correct direction, I also noticed that the collar had a crack in it thru the tapered hole.

I got tired of messing with it and went over to my benchtop bandsaw and cut just on the other side of the pin. I got my pulley puller out ( brand new in package) and it had one undersized bolt in it keeping me from using the bolts that came with it (?is someone/something trying to keep me from completing my task?), so I rigged it and removed the bottom bearing block. HA!

Dinner is ready,

[cjdavis618]

This is great info. I am getting my CNC fusion kit tomorrow from ups for my x3. Can't wait to dive in.

[tauntdesigns]

I'm hoping this thread will help someone who is getting ready to do the same conversion, such as yourself. I'm also hoping that if I start to do something wrong (stupid) that someone will tell me.

I thought I'd finish up tonight,... did I say I thought?

I started cleaning and noticed something about the cast piece that holds the ballnut and alum adapter plate. The surface that the alum adapter will mount to, had been machined with a round spotface tool and the alum piece was rectanglar and wasn't going to mount up flat. I got out a file and started filing with the file flat in a crosscut motion making sure to leave wittness marks from the spotface. I unbolted the alum adapter from the ballnut and mounted it to the cast piece and then re-mounted the ballnut.

I cleaned the top bearing block and checked it for fit on the top of the ballscrew. It's a loose slip fit, which is good because, I was woundering how I was going to press it on and get it in the right place for mounting.

I cleaned the bottom bearing block and thrust bearings and started asking myself. I said, self, where do the two small washers that came with the ballscrew (z) assembly GO? Both on top of bearing block, bottom, or one on each side.... Oh well!

I started looking at the timing pulley that mounts to the ballscrew. It doesn't have any set screws holes in it, now I'm wondering if it just got missed somehow or if I'm just missing something (like brains).

I sent an e-mail asking about the washers and set screw holes.

I guess I'll go ahead and mount the motor mount plate for the x-axis and mount up the x & y motors (425oz/in).

Jack

P.S. I was holding the z-axis ballnut and raised it up in a vertical position and as soon as I did the weight of the screw sent it spiraling down thru the nut and could have easily spun right out of the nut.

So my next project is to do a counter-weighted system for the z-axis. If the belt was to break, the weight of the head would send it crashing to the table. (Others may just want to add the gas strut)

[tauntdesigns]

Oh yea,

If others out there who have already done this conversion would like to add their 2 or 3 cents, PLEASE DO.

TIA,
Jack

[tauntdesigns]

I got an e-mail back already concerning the pulley and washers (quick reply)

They switched to a different pulley manufacturer (solid steel instead of nylon) and they (manufacturer) had missed a few. That has since been fixed.

The two washers should go, one on top, and one on bottom of the thrust
bearings, then the locking collar and pulley.

Suggestion from CNCFusion,
To align your X-Y axis,
Run the Y axis toward the stepper motor as far as possible, then readjust the motor mount. Run it back and forth looking and listening for anything odd. When you are satisfied fully tighten the Y mount.

For the X axis, run it back and forth with the motor mount and bearing mount
only snug. Adjust the motor mount when the table is all the way left, and
vice versa for the bearing mount.

To adjust your gibs, run your table back and forth about 15-20 IPM faster
than you plan to run your mill. Then tighten the set screws slowly until
your table starts locking up at max rapid travel. Now you can back off the
max IPM 15-20% to normal running speeds and you should not have any lockups.
Your stepper motors have more power the slower you run them.

Jack

P.S. I may need to re-adjust the way I did it. I ran the table back and forth and using my fingers to turn the ballscrew thinking, if I could turn it with my fingers it must be close.

[FranH]

Ohhhh no

Just having too much fun watching you!!

LOL

[tauntdesigns]

Ahh, come on!

It is kinda funny, I was scared of the electronics, but everything worked out ok.

I was putting off the Z-axis because I was scared, lol, and had a few ?'s that I figured everybody else already knew and were having to much fun watching me fumble with things.

And I was right! lol
Jack

[Rodm1954]

Hi Jack,
I finished installing the deluxe kit a while back and noticed that you can drive the Y axis off the nut. There is no stop to prevent the screw from unwinding outwards. I emailed Michael at the time but never got a response.

I am still waiting on motors and electronics to be delivered so I'm not in a hurry but I will be doing something about it before I run the machine.

Can you let me know if you have the same issue with your machine.

Apart from this I am very happy with the kit. Just to let you know with the motor attached to Z the head does not slide down the column but you are correct that if a belt broke the result would not be good.

[tauntdesigns]

Howdy Rod,

I got my kit about 5 weeks ago, and Yes, mine is like yours. I too have been thinking of a way to attach a collar or a clip (like the old y leadscrew). I wounder, what will happen if I rapid into the collar or clip? Tear the nut block off the machine?

I've already started wiring my control box for limit switches.
I'll also setup Mach3 with soft limits.

I need to make a chain and sprocket or cable and pulley type counterweight system, I can"t make up my mind.

Cheers,
Jack

[Yojinbo]

Thank you for the progress updates. They say those deluxe kit screws are very nice....

You inspired me to look at CNCfusion, and it looks like they are way back-ordered on the deluxe kits.

-Yojinbo

[Rodm1954]

Hi Jack,
I was thinking along the same line about a clip/collar on the screw but would have liked a response from Michael on this. The other option I was looking at was to fix a block on the slide and another on the base to act as a stop.

I have built four CNC gantry routers and have had heaps of trouble with false triggering of limit switches. It becomes such a pain that I end up disconnecting them. You might have better luck than me as you have different electronics so I do not want to discourage you from having a go. Given my history on this I would much rather have a mechanical stop so I don't end up searching on the floor for weeks trying to find ball bearings.

You have me thinking about counterweights now and of course there is the enclosure and flood coolant to add to that list.

Good luck with finishing off your machine and I'll keep watching to see how you get on.

[DICKEYBIRD]

Thanks Jack for taking the time to document the CNC installation process.

I've had my X-3 for about 9 mos now, using it manually. I have a homebuilt CNC router and hope to convert the X-3 to CNC some day. If you don't mind, could you post the approx. amount of money you'll have in your conversion? I'm trying to figure how many soda cans I'll need to pick up to bankroll the project.

Also, does this kit come with drawings to give one the option to machine some of the alum. parts like brackets & such to save $$?

[cjdavis618]

Nope just the parts. I just got mine in at 11:30 this morning.

My problem is that I ordered the Xylotex 4 axis kit with 4 425 oz nema23 motors and the Z axis on my CNC fusion kit is a nema34 mount. not a major problem but will delay me a bit. I also will need to make a new bushing for the 1/2" pulley that was sent with it. no major problem though.

[tauntdesigns]

Howdy Rod,

(Hi Jack) don't say that in a air port. lol

I'll have to look into the mechanical stop idea. The motor would just stall and maybe not tear anything up.

Later on,
Jack

[tauntdesigns]

Howdy DickyBird (that kinda fun to say),

Thanks, I was hoping it might help someone along the way, and it's a way of giving back. I've picked up allot here on the zone.

I not sure I want to add up what I've spent so far. I not sure I want to know.

I worked in manufacturing for 21 years and had never noticed any benchtop machines, didn't even know anybody made them. After a MX bike crash (forgot my parachute), I started looking for a hobby I could do while sitting down.

One night I saw a guy who was making his own RC cars using benchtop machines. I got kinda' excited and started researching and saw a cnc converted benchtop mill and I was hooked.

To start with I bought a benchtop lathe (lathemaster 8x14) and mill (seig x3). Then I started buying tooling needed to build the parts needed for the conversions.

Things happened (life) and I had to put the hobby on hold for awhile, which allowed me to do more research. It also gave me time to decide against going with the least expensive stuff, as others had written that they wish they had got better stuff to begin with.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, I could have done it for less BUT.....
(I have champagne taste on a beer income) lol

3-Gecko G203v with all the newbie safty features..............$147.00 each
CNC4PC C11G breakout board (bob).................................$109.00
A4 power supply 5v and 12v for bob................$ 28.50
A1 parallel cable..........................................$ 10.69
A7 limit switches.......................................... $ 2.00
A9 latch twist-release e-stop.........................$ 22.50
C3 index pulse card.......................................$ 22.88
Kelinginc KL-6515 power supply........................................$179 .00
KL34H280-45-8A (640 oz/in)..........................$ 89.00
2-KL23H286-20-8A (425 oz/in)..........................$ 54.00 each
CNCFusion Deluxe Kit............................................... .......$899.00
Action Electronics 4-pin female cable mic connectors............$ 2.50 ea.
4-pin male cable mic connector........$ 2.50 ea.
5-pin female cable mic connector......$ 2.50 ea.
5-pin male panel mount connector.....$ 2.50 ea.
6-pin female cable mic connectors.....$ 2.50 ea.
6-pin male panel mount connectors....$ 2.50 ea.
4-wire sheilded cable 18 awg 100 ft...$ .56 ft.
6-wire sheilded cable 22awg 100 ft....$ .50 ft.
Mouser electronics (resistors, capacitors, fuses, etc..............

I didn't add it up cause, I don't want to know.... lol

Cheers,
Jack

P.S. I've still got to get supplies for a counter-weight system and coolant enclosure. IT'S NEVER ENDING!

[Rodm1954]

G'day Jack

I'll remember to adjust my greeting for Jack in future.

[tauntdesigns]

Congrats CJ,

I don't remember where I read it but, IIRC, CNCFusion had posted that they could make a z-axis motor mount for nema 23 motors. You might e-mail them, it couldn't hurt, who knows they may have some sitting around ready to send ya.

Good luck with your build,
Jack

[DICKEYBIRD]

Ouch, oh man....sorry to hear about the crash Jack. Sounds like you have the right attitude, dude. I had my share of tumbles on the ol' Elsinore back in the day but fortunately the only permanent body damage is a footpeg shaped scoop of meat missing from my upper ankle. Stoopid a$$ me testing a new bore/piston job at 2:00 AM after a few brewskies.

Thanks for taking the time to type out your equipment list. Yup, gonna have to win the lottery before doing the CNC thing!

My X-3 didn't come with the column gas strut and I quickly grew weary of cranking the head up. I cobbled up a compound pulley arrangement from some old pipe, some pulleys and a piece of Home Depot plastic coated wire cable. The weight was made from a couple of Jag front brake discs and some other steel scrap bolted together. I can spin the crank wheel with one finger now.

[tauntdesigns]

The ol'Elsinore was the start of my mx dreams back in the day.

My x3 didn't come with a gas strut either. I like your pimped out (jag brakes) counter-weight system. I was thinking of getting a couple of motorcycle counter shaft sprockets and a chain. Mounting the sprockets to a couple pieces of angle iron with sprockets mounted between them. Then mounting that assembly to the top of the machine. Or, cable and pulleys mounted the same way. Now I have a third option. Thanks!

Good day,
Jack