[blau_schuh]

Just started putting together an 8020 router for wood, aluminum, etc.

Was hoping for around a 40"x60"x8" cutting envelope. Probably will end up with 36ish" x 50-somethin' x 8" which is plenty large for me.

I originally planned on tig welding a 3"x3" tube steel frame, but getting it into my basement would be a bit problematic. I go into the build knowing that 8020 isn't the stiffest stuff in the world, but will make every attempt to reinforce the frame. Plus it's super easy to break down 8020 and transport it.

The frame is a bit over sized for my components. However, since the 8020 in the 3060 profile is so expensive I hoped to splurge on longer lengths than needed *once* and be able to reuse the profiles in other projects. I chose to leave the 3060 width of the machine at 48" rather than chopping it down to accommodate my Parker linear actuator. I'm going to use 1/2" plate at most of the joining points in order to make it as stiff as possible.

I'm going to try and drive the gantry from the side with an existing short ground ballscrew and see what happens. I have a 750W AC servo on hand, but I really surprised at the oomph of the 400W'rs. This would let me add another leg in the center of the long span and cut down deflection to almost zero (it's 0.0007" with a arbitrary 75lb center point load with a 70-something span in 3060 profile). Eventually I want to drive the gantry with a monster 2" diameter nut-driven screw that's 76" long.

* 8020 3060 profile frame, overall frame footprint ~54"x78"x40"
* 8020 3030 legs with leveling casters
* 66" Length THK HSR35 linear rails for gantry
* 48" Length Parker linear actuator for Y and Z axis (got for great price an industrial auction a while back). ~40" Y , 12" Z travel. Ground screws 5mm pitch on Y and Z.
* Mitsubishi MR-J2S 400W AC servo motors and drives
* Chinese 2.2kw spindle w/Hitachi VFD
* Rolled+Ground ballscrews (previous industrial auction finds). Most likely 5mm pitch for X axis, moving to 20mm pitch on giant nut-driven screw.
* Linux CNC driving Mesa 5i25 -> breakout board (forget the model #)

various pics:
Debating on whether the 40" is going to be TOO high of a working height. I'm only 5'8". Will have to play around with it a bit. Lots of time tapping/drilling holes ahead. Also need to add reinforcing plates below the frame.
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Would rather side mount the rails, but will require extending the width of the gantry, as my actuator is mounted on 52" long 8020 and mounting on the sides would require an extension to ~58". Side mounting also makes more of the top of the profile available.
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First step was making up some 3/4" mounting plates for the casters. May need to reconsider these casters as the rubber feet giggle around quite easily. Or add more solid feet later to anchor the machine to ground.
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[mike2768]

Great build so far you said you want to mount the linear rails to the side but can't because you have the gantry width based on the top mount right. Here's an option why do you mount the long 3060 to the inside of the shorter end pieces then you can make the machine the right width by sliding them in. This way you can mount those awesome linear rails to the sides.

[blau_schuh]

Great build so far you said you want to mount the linear rails to the side but can't because you have the gantry width based on the top mount right. Here's an option why do you mount the long 3060 to the inside of the shorter end pieces then you can make the machine the right width by sliding them in. This way you can mount those awesome linear rails to the sides.

That's actually a REALLY good idea. like u said, would allow a fine width adjustment (tap-tap-tap) rather than having to mill/shave down spacers if i don't cut everything just right. I'm hoping the long length is long enough to mount my big screw in the space, whereas before I could just let the end of the screw jut out a bit . Will need to check that first when i get home.

Let's see ... 16 corner brackets x 8 bolts each... ugg... this might take some time.

[mike2768]

Ya I know :-( will take some time changing things, I feel your pain I've build one machine and now building my second. I've had it apart so much I hope I don't wear it out lol I'll be watching your build

[blau_schuh]

Not much of an update. I swapped the and did some more hole tapping. I now have almost the exact width I need for the gantry.

Not sure about keeping the rails in that 2nd from the top slot, may move them up... Was wanting to have slots above & below the rail to mount a bellow to keep the dust off. The seals on these bearings seems to be much better than the last set I had on my last machine so maybe a cover won't be needed.

Was going to mount the ball screw in one of the slots below, but it's not looking like I'll have the clearance due to the width of the bearing trucks.

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These puppies are large, may just run them back to back. Will still get > 8" mount width for the gantry.
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80/20 seems to flew no matter how much you crank down on the wimpy connectors they sell. The connecting plate made a huge difference, no wobble at all compared to the other corners. Probably will add another plate underneath.
Attachment 248686

[Seelesturm]

Looks like a great build so far, Im excited to see how it turns out! Those really are some beefy trucks.

In my experience with 80/20, the "L" shaped brackets are pretty flimsy. If you have problems with them , and / or have the means to, I would swap those brackets out for the gussett style connectors. A 30 series two unit gusset connector from 80/20 is part number 4338 N. They run at about $8.95 a piece, as compared to your "L" shape ones at $6.55 (Part #4304 N), but even if you only put one or two at each corner you will notice a HUGE difference. I can bend the "L" brackets by hand. Gussets, not so much.

Touching on the connectors though, you may want to slip a t-nut or two into the legs now, and brace the bottom of the legs, even if only with temporary pine 2x4s and a long bolt to the t-nuts. Once weight starts getting added to your assembly, those legs will start flexing more and more. Itll be much easier to do temporary braces now and put in t-nuts for future permanent bracing before you get all the weight of the machine on it.

Looking forward to seeing it come together!

[blau_schuh]

Looks like a great build so far, Im excited to see how it turns out! Those really are some beefy trucks.

In my experience with 80/20, the "L" shaped brackets are pretty flimsy. If you have problems with them , and / or have the means to, I would swap those brackets out for the gussett style connectors. A 30 series two unit gusset connector from 80/20 is part number 4338 N. They run at about $8.95 a piece, as compared to your "L" shape ones at $6.55 (Part #4304 N), but even if you only put one or two at each corner you will notice a HUGE difference. I can bend the "L" brackets by hand. Gussets, not so much.

Touching on the connectors though, you may want to slip a t-nut or two into the legs now, and brace the bottom of the legs, even if only with temporary pine 2x4s and a long bolt to the t-nuts. Once weight starts getting added to your assembly, those legs will start flexing more and more. It'll be much easier to do temporary braces now and put in t-nuts for future permanent bracing before you get all the weight of the machine on it.

Looking forward to seeing it come together!

Hey, thanks for the input.

I'm trying to make the rigidity of the main 3060 frame independent of the legs. I'm thinking of using 6"hx10"wide pieces of 3/4" aluminum plate to tie the ends together instead of the 3/8" 6x6 plates that I started drilling. Not sure if this is overkill or not. then again nothing is as overkill as HSR35 rails on a dinky DIY 8020 router. Also there are going to be 3/8" L plates underneath joining the 3060 together.

I really wish I had paid the measly couple bucks more for those beefier gussets you mentioned.

If I can be successful driving the gantry from the side I'll be tossing in two more legs at the midpoint and then trying everything together with 1530 cross supports. I'd like to house at least a shop vac and my cyclone dust deputy underneath on a shelf in one of those noise killing boxes.

x a million on the t nuts. Seems I always find myself needing a tnut after I've blocked off the ends. Forced to use a $1+ drop in nuts instead of 10 cent cheapo nuts is always a bummer.

"Don't drink and drill"
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[mike2768]

If you need a cheap place for tnuts try this TNUTZ | Leader in T-Slotted Aluminum Hardware
They have the best pricing I've seen anywhere. I've order a few times. And they have a wide range of thread sizes metric and standard.

[blau_schuh]

Ill try them out... seems about half the price on some stuff as the 8020 ebay store.

[blau_schuh]

Haven't spent a ton of time on the machine lately.. Managed to use some 1/4" thick plates to make some temporary mock-up gantry supports this weekend, and get the linear actuator mounted. Right now I just want to play around a bit and see what's going to work. I'll hopefully have time this week to center mount a ball screw and this week and do some jogging.

I have a bunch of these oddly shaped 1/4" plates on hand, and may try and triple them up. It's that or get some proper 3/4" or 1" thick plate. I paid $10 each for them, so it's probably worth it to get the proper thick plate when the time comes. Mounting a piece of 1530 8020 vertically on the outside of the plate might work too... not sure how rigid it will be.

Linear bearings are ~11" apart, but I may butt the linear bearing back to back and that will drop the width down to 8".

I need to get my spindle mounted and experiment a bit with mounting heights. Would like to get 8"+ of cutting depth.

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