[MITYDR]

We have an older Daewoo PUMA 10 lathe with a FANUC 6T control that is down! I dont know the whole information, wiether it was a thrust type overload (large drill he was useing may have hit the part in Z) or a spindle overload (large drill stopped the spindle with to much feed). I dont know which (the operator doesn't know), and he tried to reset it himself so I couldn't get any alarm codes or numbers. Bottom line is, when the MACHINE READY button is pushed the lights come on, the servos seem to turn on, but it still says NOT READY on the screen. It's like it's missing one last little step. Is there an over ride I'm missing, or can reset be held when starting up, or some combination of keys held? I did find a small 2A bottle fuse blown in the back power cabinet, replaced it, no change. Any suggestions or help would be great!

Thank you

[Rocksalt]

Reset all the breakers and thermal overloads ont he drives. Re-check that fuse that blew and see if it is still blown.

[MITYDR]

Thanks Rocksalt.
I reset all the breakers in the back and the breakers and thermal overloads on the axis drives. I reset the breaker on the spindle drive and checked fuses at that point also, no change. Also, the small bottle fuse I replaced has a little pink tip, that if it blows, falls off. Still there.
Still down, getting back into the manauls but not having much luck!

[Rocksalt]

I can't help you without an electrical print. You need to look for a 'drive ready' signal from the spindle drive and the axis drives. Did you find the fuse on the print and see what it drives? Also.. was the machine running/setup and it just hammered the part? This might be important. The machine might have lost that fuse when you were running and caused the machine to crash. That is a different senario than hogging off to much and overloading the machine. If you were driving it to hard then I would say you are missing a thermal/fuse someplace. Some fuses are 'flag' fuses an indicate that a much higher amperage fuse is blown. Look for any odd lights/codes on the drives. Also look for a 'phase sequence' light. If you blew a main fuse it won't be lit.

[MITYDR]

Thanks Rocksalt, you got me to dig real deep. Fortunately I do have good books on this machine, unfolding the pages for the wiring ladder, getting to the area in question, I found some penned in notes. "NOT READY" and "Z AXIS SHEAR" and "0 = 1p". It also says "if fuses and OVL's are OK". This may be what I'm looking for. I'm assuming OVL means overloads, which are OK. Now, these are by 2 schematics that look like breakers. I found the wires on the buss bar and checked the ohm difference between X and Z, no smoking gun here but I may not be checking it at the problem. I haven't seen an axis shear switch before, is it a physical thing or in the pcb? There is nothing in the cabinet, have you ran into this ever?

Thanks again for all your help, it is much appreciated!

[xavierdemoura]

I had these same thing here in these machine. The problem here is the hydraulic pump. When i pressed the MACHINE READY button, he comes light on, but in a litle secons, light off. I see that's the reservatory of hydraulic pump isn't not very clean. So, when the pump turn on, don't had a lot of pressure to the system, and give's these alarm to me. See these problem in your machine.

Daniel

[MITYDR]

Thank you xavierdemoura. I checked the hydraulic reservoir level, tank is clean, checked ALL fluid levels, gear boxes, way oil, etcetera. Wanted to make sure I didn't miss any level sensors. Still down but getting closer (I think)...

Thanks again!

[Rocksalt]

Thanks Rocksalt, you got me to dig real deep. Fortunately I do have good books on this machine, unfolding the pages for the wiring ladder, getting to the area in question, I found some penned in notes. "NOT READY" and "Z AXIS SHEAR" and "0 = 1p". It also says "if fuses and OVL's are OK". This may be what I'm looking for. I'm assuming OVL means overloads, which are OK. Now, these are by 2 schematics that look like breakers. I found the wires on the buss bar and checked the ohm difference between X and Z, no smoking gun here but I may not be checking it at the problem. I haven't seen an axis shear switch before, is it a physical thing or in the pcb? There is nothing in the cabinet, have you ran into this ever?

Thanks again for all your help, it is much appreciated!

I doubt there is a z-axis shear switch. One thing you want to check is if any axis is froze/locked up. The axis drive will try and move the servo motor until it's in position and hold it there. If it cannot do this it will alarm out. If it does not appear that the servos are coming on briefly with a "hummm" then there is an output to the NC that is not present. Such as a "drive ok" or something in the e-stop circuit. Any thermals should be in the e-stop circuit, but not always. Look for a "ES" relay or "E-Stop". See that it is energizing. There are a set of contacts in each drive that tells the NC that they are ok. You need to find out which one is invalid. Perhaps you are not finding the thermal that is tripped or the fuse that blew has something to do with a bigger problem. You have to narrow the problem down to a single device then troubleshoot from there. If I could see the print I could tell you what do check with a meter.

[Arrow Control]

If memory serves me right the Daewoos do have shear plates on each axis. Look right where the motor is you'll see between motor shaft and ballscrew 2 plates with a ball bearing between them. The ball bearing fits in a detent. When axis overloads the ball will slip causing plates to push apart and make a prox switch - telling control shear pin activated .To clear just hold one side and turn the other side til ball drops back in hole. Hope this helps.
Terry

[Arrow Control]

trying new signature

[Al_The_Man]

trying new signature

There is a TEST forum (wrong)
Al.

[MITYDR]

Hey!
Nailed it! Pulled back way covers (what a pain that is),hand moved the Z axis away from the chuck and Walla! Machine woke up with no errors! Further investigation finds that the split collar holding the bearings opposite the motor, are indeed able to shear (and did). So lets say problem found, soon to be problem solved. Tuesday will be calling a Daewoo dealer to see if part is still available, if not, will be making my own. Anyone know the best Daewoo Dealers phone # ???

Thanks to everyone for being my sounding board and providing real good info! CNCZONE is a good forum and helps me keep me and my company at it's best!

Best regards,
Steve

[Arrow Control]

Some shear plates just have small ( about .25 dia )pin between plates. If its this type just make a new pin be sure to cut a relief in middle, that could get you going again. Order some from Daewoo to get correct shear torque though.

[MITYDR]

Actually, these shear plates are on the pillow block at the far end from the Z axis motor. They're like flanged washers that hold the end of the shaft in place. The one on the inside is split so it can be removed for replacement without having to remove the pillow block. The washers have an obvious relief groove in them, so if pressure is to high, they break. (they seam to be made of iron) This inside set was bent and broke, but it looks like it was previously stressed and what happened this week is the straw that broke the camals back. Found a dealer less than a 100 miles from me that can get the part to me Wed., pretty good considering the holiday! I will however have to go through and check backlash adjustment when all is said and done.

[Rocksalt]

Good job! Thanks to arrow5control! I stand corrected on the shear switch. I didn't think there was one... who am I anyway, lol.

Arrow, are you working in Houston? I make the commute to Houston everyday. Traffic is just GREAT, sheesh.

[Arrow Control]

Live out in Fulshear - west of Katy. I drive in traffic all day long - so I'm used to it -somewhat.