[Bison9]

Hey All! I am finally to the tramming stage of this mini mill!

I basically took a Harbor Freight X2 Clone (model 44991) mini mill and fit it to the LMS solid kit.. The thing is awesome (See this thread about this: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...-make-big.html).

Ok, so I am first tramming the spindle to the table... I made a nice bracket for my Dial Indicator and it works very well.

I measured at the furthest point to the right side of the table, zeroed the dial indicator, and then swept to the far left side of the table. I was out -.004 in my initial measurement here. So... Based on all the articles I have read out there, I placed a shim HALF this size (so, .002) on the right side of the base (as the solid column kit removes the swivel base of the X2 so it has to be shimmed to square it up). Because I had to basically unbolt the column to put the shim in, I just started the process over again the same exact way. I was off -.002 this time... So, I just put a .004" shim on the right side of the column this time. I do a fresh test and I am pretty much zeroed out....

So... I basically put a shim in that was the same size as the amount I was out of tram on my initial measurement...

Did I do this even remotely correct here??? I don't get the whole "adjust it half the distance you are out" idea here that I have been reading about online... This is totally not my experience here for this.

Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated!

I have poured literally hours into research and setup of this mini mill and I am so close to making the first chips of my life as a hobbyist machinist!

Thanks in advance for the help!

[Wiggles84]

Hey All! I am finally to the tramming stage of this mini mill!

I basically took a Harbor Freight X2 Clone (model 44991) mini mill and fit it to the LMS solid kit.. The thing is awesome (See this thread about this: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...-make-big.html).

Ok, so I am first tramming the spindle to the table... I made a nice bracket for my Dial Indicator and it works very well.

I measured at the furthest point to the right side of the table, zeroed the dial indicator, and then swept to the far left side of the table. I was out -.004 in my initial measurement here. So... Based on all the articles I have read out there, I placed a shim HALF this size (so, .002) on the right side of the base (as the solid column kit removes the swivel base of the X2 so it has to be shimmed to square it up). Because I had to basically unbolt the column to put the shim in, I just started the process over again the same exact way. I was off -.002 this time... So, I just put a .004" shim on the right side of the column this time. I do a fresh test and I am pretty much zeroed out....

So... I basically put a shim in that was the same size as the amount I was out of tram on my initial measurement...

Did I do this even remotely correct here??? I don't get the whole "adjust it half the distance you are out" idea here that I have been reading about online... This is totally not my experience here for this.

Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated!

I have poured literally hours into research and setup of this mini mill and I am so close to making the first chips of my life as a hobbyist machinist!

Thanks in advance for the help!

I'll start out by saying that I do not have an X2 machine. But I do have a good theory on why the distance shimmed is different from what you have read.

I think it has to do with the distance you are "swinging" with you indicator vs the distance your column's base contacts machines base. If your swing distance is greater than the contacting distance between the base and column, the shims needed would not be half of the indicated number.

hope that makes sence
Andrew

[Bison9]

Makes sense. But! I pulled the sweep in from the width of the table to about 4 inches total (the width of the column basically and same thing. I was in correct tram there too....

My theory here is that shimming for half the distance you are out makes me think this is done more for starters to make sure you don't over shim and eventually run up to the correct shim you need after a couple of tries...

Nonetheless though, my overall question really is this: If I put a shim in, take the whole tramming bracket out, put it all back in (so basically, if I walked away for a day and came back...), 0 on the right side, and sweep to the left and see that it is 0 on the left, I am in proper tram then correct?

I know you hardcore machinists out there are shaking your head right now

[motionman]

You are trying to make chicken soup out of chicken ****

[Vogavt]

...if I walked away for a day and came back...), 0 on the right side, and sweep to the left and see that it is 0 on the left, I am in proper tram then correct?

If you haven't aligned the spindle head to the column it will only show the same if you are checking your tram at the exact height each time.
In other words, If your spindle head has a some rotation off axis with the column, i.e., a twist out of parallel or a slight nod, then you will only be sure it's trammed at that particular height.
Hope that makes some sense.

So far you've only mentioned the left and the right. What does it look like on the front to back measurement?

[Fastest1]

Throw a disc brake from a car on the table (upside down) and do a large sweep. In a full circle.