[brianbonedoc]

So hopefully my new Pulsar will be here in about 3 wks (thanks Khai!)

I was wondering if anyone had any tips about what to start doing/collecting to get it running and making chips.

I have some ER20's and quick change tool holders on the way.
Electrical to be installed soon.

Anyone use any auto-touch probes or anything?

Thanks!
Brian

[LeeWay]

Congrats on the new machine. I think you will really enjoy it. I don't use any probes. I do use a digital height gauge and granite plate to set my tool lengths or offsets from my zero tool. I just use a page from the yellow pages phone book. Not good for anything else. Maybe outhouse duty.

As for my tools, I had a few with my home made mill already. Those got me started on this. I kept adding tools as I needed them. I think that is really the best way to do it. Then you aren't stuck with tools you don't need or won't use. I use all TTS stuff from Tormach. I buy my tap collets from a place in Florida. I can send a link if needed. I use some ER16's and some ER20's. About 50/50. Some set screw holders too.

I made a stainless steel tool caddy that I thought had too many holes in it at 24. I have 23 tools in it now. I don't have a face mill in TTS. Mine is an R-8 instead. This means that I hyave to remove the Lever Draw Bar to install it and it isn't a tool in my library. That means facing ops are a different program and require it's own tool zero. Considering I have already invested in it and it is a good face mill, I'll keep using it.
Had I to do it over again, I might consider Tormach's face/shell mill and arbor. It is TTS compatible, but only 1.5". Mine is 2.5".

[brianbonedoc]

Lee - thanks for the tips!!!
Yes I too started w/ an X2 mill and conclusion conversion - just to learn the basics. But now I am stepping up to a real machine!

I guess I still am confused about the TTS and how to set tool heights and offsets in Mach3.

Also - did you buy an MPG for your Pulsar? I have seen a few wireless ones for around $100-120.

[LeeWay]

The only thing I use like an MPG is a little wireless keyboard for my plasma cutter. Everything else has the keyboard close enough to jog with to set zero's. That is all I ever use it for. I use a wired mouse and keyboard to operate all my machines with.
Here is a recent thread discussing the tool table setup in Mach 3.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...c-tormach.html

[brianbonedoc]

Lee - thanks! Yes I have been using the keyboard too on my X2 as well.

[Hirudin]

I don't have a lot of MPG experience, but I can say that I really like my VistaCNC MPG. I haven't tried any of the other Mach3 pendents out there, I mostly went with that brand based on SCzEngrgGroup's endorsement.

Tool lengths are very easy and I HIGHLY recommend you start using them as soon as possible.
(sorry, I wrote out a description of how the tool table works, but it was sorta confusing so I deleted it)

... multiple edits later...

I'm going to give it another shot...
To use the ToolTable you need to measure the length of your tools while installed in their holder. The measurement starts at the collar of the TTS tool holder and ends at the tip of the tool. The measurement is the "real" or "actual" measurement between these two points. It should be a positive number. For TTS I think the height gauge and surface plate with a hole in it method is very effective and straightforward.

Let's say you have three tools, we'll call them "tool1", "tool2", and "tool3". We'll use tool1 as our reference tool.
Let's assign some arbitrary lengths to these tools...
tool1 = 4.000"
tool2 = 3.000"
tool3 = 2.194"

OK, imagine you have tool1, the reference tool, loaded into the spindle. If you lower the tool down onto the top of your workpiece, and zero the Z DRO, it will read "0.000" (of course). Now, imagine you move the head up two inches; the Z DRO will read "2.000".

So far, we're not exactly splitting atoms here.

Now, if you manually take out tool1 and put in tool2 the Z DRO will not change, it will still read "2.000". And, of course, if you then lower the head two inches the DRO will read "0.000". But where will the tip of tool2 actually be? It'll be 1.000" above the workpiece. This isn't good because Mach3 thinks it's touching the workpiece (at 0.000).

So, let's bring the ToolTable into the mix...
First, let's say the head has been homed and the Z DRO reads "0.000". Now, we can insert tool1 and tell Mach 3 that we're now using tool1*. The Z DRO will be updated by subtracting the length of tool1 (4.000) from its current position (0.000). The Z DRO will display "-4.000". If the tool is brought down to the top of the workpiece and if the Z is zeroed, the Z DRO will read "0.000". Good.
Now, if you bring the Z axis up two inches the Z DRO will say "2.000". If we now tell Mach3 to change to tool2**, Mach3 will do some math. First it'll add the length of the old tool, tool1, to the Z DRO value (2.000 + 4.000 = 6.000) and will then immediately subtract the length of the new tool, tool2, from the Z DRO (6.000 - 3.000 = 3.000). The Z DRO will read "3.000". If we now bring the head down two inches the Z DRO will read "1.000", which is good because, as we know, the tip of tool2 will be 1.000 inch above the workpiece.

Let's make it a little more complicated by using tool3...
If we move the head up one inch from its last position the Z DRO will read "2.000". If we then take out tool2 and replace it with tool3, and we tell Mach3***, it will add and subtract the values from the ToolTable. First it'll add tool2's length and then subtract tool3's length. (2.000 + 3.000 - 2.194 = 2.806)
The Z DRO will display "2.806" and if we were to measure the distance from the tip of tool3 to the workpiece we would find that it would be 2.806 inches.

By entering the tool lengths into the ToolTable you can save yourself a lot of time because you'll only have to measure each tool once and you'll only have to touch-off each workpiece once.

OK, I hope it makes sense this time!

If you were only asking how to access the ToolTable, it's in Config > ToolTable... . Mach3 is a little nutty sometimes, so some people find it's good practice to close and reopen Mach3 after modifying the ToolTable.

Typical gcode commands for the above actions...
*
T1 M6
G43 H1

**
T2 M6
G43 H2

***
T3 M6
G43 H3

[brianbonedoc]

Hirudin - thank you very much for the explanation - it does make sense on paper - but we'll see when I am staring at the tool screen!
I plan on measuring each tool in it's holder and then entering that into the tool table.

I have some Er20's but maybe I need a few Er32s for those larger endmills.

Still gotta buy some flood coolant too. Was thinking of Trim® E 206 Soluble Oil - but I already have some CRC SL2512 Soluble Oil
Not sure if theres any real difference.

Anyone make an enclosure for their Pulsar? Wonder if it's needed. . .

[LeeWay]

Anyone make an enclosure for their Pulsar? Wonder if it's needed. . .

Yes I did make an enclosure and yes, it is needed. The Pulsar actually comes with a wash down pump and hose. To make good use of that, you will want a decent enclosure.
I made mine mostly out of treated 2x4's and fiberglass panel. It does a great job, but I should have listened to the guys in my thread. It does spray out the top some for certain parts if I forget to regulate the valve down some.
Here is a link to my thread. The enclosure is toward the end.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/novako...gineering.html

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Look at my thread on my Torus Pro. I made an enclosure for $50 in materials using Coroplast and a few pieces of 1x1 lumber. It works perfectly. I later added Lexan sliding doors (for about $200 for the Lexan).

Regards,
Ray L.

[LeeWay]

You can wind up spending quite a bit on it if you go the 80/20 route. Those are really nice alright, but our's works just as well. Save the extra cash and use it toward a PDB and ATC.

[brianbonedoc]

Lee - pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by the 80/20 route? I have seen that term thrown around but don't have a clue what it means.

Thanks!

[LeeWay]

Sorry.
It is a brand of aluminum extrusions and hardware. I used some of it in making my other cnc machines.

80/20® Inc. - The Industrial Erector Set®

If you ever need any of it, they have a store on Ebay. You can get some nice parts a lot cheaper that way. Still pricey if you need much of it.

[brianbonedoc]

Ahh - thx. That would make a great looking enclosure

[Kenny Duval]

The most expensive part of my enclosure was the 1/4" Lexan. The 80/20 was cheap by comparison. I made all the brackets for mine though and didn't buy anything but the nuts and bolts.

[LeeWay]

Is it there yet?

[brianbonedoc]

Not yet actually Khai emailed today, yes Sunday, and said it would be shipping out tomorrow. Can't wait!

[hayes]

Did you receive your new machine, and are you up and running? Pics? I really wish I had rigid tapping on my NM200...

I use a touch probe for finding work piece center and zero all the time. It's incredibly helpful and quick hole location, point cloud generation and fixture setup as well. Currently using a Wildhorse econo probe, but as that is going back to Wildhorse for repair, I'm looking at upgrading to either Tormach's passive probe or another unit that seems to have very good feedback and relatively low cost, around $200. If you are interested in probing, take a look at MachStdMill - Calypso Ventures, Inc. and here are some videos of how it works (it's great by the way!) https://www.youtube.com/user/CVIMSM.

If you like the machine to do the majority of the work (as it should, after all that's why we use them) a tool setter probe can make things extremely easy as well.

[Kenny Duval]

The probing routines alone are worth the cost if MSM.

[brianbonedoc]

Thanks for the tips Hayes!
Haven't got the mill yet actually the freight carrier has it and it's coming next Wednesday.

[brianbonedoc]

Finally part of the club!