[forhire]

I got the 3/8. So the way you tested the probe showed it can hold tenths? So your getting mixed results? How did you perform your test and what was your constant?

If I have the probe touch off and record the position it is always within a few tenths... but the probe consistently over travels about 5 thousands. So for example I'm reading 0.8449 instead of 0.8499. If I import the DXF and off set the line I have to offset by 0.62 instead of the expected probe radius of 0.625. With drawings I can live with this over travel and adjust in CAD... but if I want to use the probe to touch off work... the 5 thou-ish over travel is a problem.

To test your probe. Set your zero position using a known method about a half inch from a stationary face. Enable your probe. Then enter the Jog menu and press the period. Have the probe touch off. Record the value. Repeat several times and compare. It should touch off and retract back to the original position. Your recorded touch should be the half inch you offset originally.

It should be noted, the first time I used my probe the shank came loose and stopped working. I tightened it up and dialed it in... but I'm still suspect it may be moving. I'm going to put an indicator on the body tomorrow and see if it moves.

[forhire]

Digitized the plaster cast I made the other day. Digitizing went well. The probe left small dimples in the plaster but it was consistent. The draft on the cast is 5 degrees. I made three XY traces around the cast, all equally spaced 0.25" apart on the Z. The three lines imported into CAD were very consistently spaced. The trace was then offset a little and the squares were dropped in. Parts fit well.

Attachment 298472
Attachment 298474
Attachment 298476

[forhire]

I called Wildhorse. The basic issue is pre-travel. The amount of deflection before the probe breaks contact. The thing that stuck out most about the conversation was the idea that I couldn't use the DRO value. It took me a bit of reading to wrap my head around the idea. Basically, the electrical radius of the probe is less than the physical size due to the pre-travel. Most modern machines have probe calibration routines that allow the machine to compensate. In the case of this old software I suspect I'll need to do it manually.

This Renishaw PDF "Machine tool probe calibration" was a good primer.
http://resources.renishaw.com/en/dow...03773b3e427bf)

So I mounted a bearing to the table and indicated it in. I then probed it in all four directions, eight times in each directions, for a total of 32 times. The probes in each direction were within tenth of each other. One direction was off from the other three. I then rotated the probe 90 degrees and it was off the same about in the new direction... so clearly I don't have the probe quite right or I'm getting more deflection in one side of the probe. It will take some more fiddling but I'm now confident I can get it accurate.

Here are the four directions.
Attachment 298574
Attachment 298576
Attachment 298578
Attachment 298580

[forhire]

If you look at the test probes I made last week you'll see that the -X direction was consistently about 3 thou high compared to the other directions. After giving it some thought over the weekend I came to the realization that adjusting the probe center by leveling the balls would only work if the probe was dead center. I suspected the planer adjustment was causing one lobe to require more force to break than the others. So today I took the shank off and discovered the thread was clearly not straight and it had raised a burr around the shank. Yup, the probe body wasn't straight. So I decided to retrofit the shank. I opted to make a tapered section that would screw down to the probe with the stock #10-24 thread. I then turned a shank that would fit an extra 3/4" cat40 holder with four conical set screws to center the probe and hold it in place. I dry fit it tonight with screws but I'll pick up some conical set screws tomorrow. Already the probe feels more rigid. Now I should be able to center to the probe and then use the planer adjustment so balance to ball pressure.

For grins I included a photo of the inside.

Attachment 298826

[forhire]

Finding conical set screws locally proved to be a problem. I could have ordered them but I wanted to get this done... I also didn't need 50! So I turned a quick mandrel and threaded it for the #8-32 set screws. I then flipped the part and drilled it out so I could get a hex key onto the locking set screw. Worked perfectly. Dialed in the mandrel on the whirligig and ground them to a point quickly. I then installed the screws and dial in the probe body concentric. I was very happy I opted for four set screws as it was quick and easy to dial in... just like a four jaw chuck. I used a key on each side... loosen one and snug the other.

Grinding the conical set screws:
Attachment 299014
Attachment 299016

A shot of the taper adapter and how it screws into the probe body:
Attachment 299018
Attachment 299020

The fully adapted probe:
Attachment 299022

[forhire]

The new shaft appears to have solved the weirdness I was seeing. I'm sure I could fuss with this for days to get it really dialed in perfect. Right now it's repeatable within tenths and consistent in each direction within a half thousand of each other. Definitely a LOT better than it was when it came out of the box. My electrical probe diameter came out to be 0.1165" due to pre-travel and with this adjusted probe diameter I'm able to locate within tenths. I think is is pretty good.

It would be interesting to compare a shorter 1" probe as a 2" probe is pretty long. The action of this probe is fairly stiff, it would be interesting to try a lighter spring and compare. I'd also be interested to see if a transistor triggered could be made to operate with less deflection.

I used a bearing as my test ring and super glued the inner race to the table so there may be some levelness deviation. A calibrated test ring would have been better but I used what I had.
Attachment 299028

Using the 0.1165" probe diameter... I used the GEOM (geometry) function to find the hole center and radius. The bearing is 17mm ID... so 0.334645 radius. The function calculated the radius at 0.3347... within a tenth and off center by 3 tenths.
Attachment 299032

[forhire]

Here's a video of the touch probe in action. Actual digitizing time was about 20 minutes... sped up to spare you the pain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eU983poEmnU

[forhire]

Alright, I have been using my modified wildhorse touch probe for a few months and for the most part it has been working well with the electrically adjusted ball diameter. If you remember the probe has a 0.125" diameter ball but due to the mechanical motion required to trigger I found 0.1165" gets me withing a few tenths consistently. This pre-travel is bothersome but wasn't an issue once I wrapped my head around it. I've been using it to find hole centers and other setup tasks. The only real issue I've had is cheap pvc cable broke where it enters the probe body. I fixed that today. Little solder and hot glue and it's as good as new.

Now for the real deal. A couple weeks ago I scored a Renishaw MP11 touch probe buy it now. I wasn't even looking for one but I was trolling torq-cut parts and this probe popped up as having come off a torq-cut. I immediately snatched it up. Most have been 2 to 3 times (or more) than what I paid. It looked very complete and I was hoping by some chance the seller had the original Bridgeport digitizing manual, but he didn't. It came with a 1/2" straight shank so I put it on a CAT40 holder and tried it out today. At first I was disappointed it didn't work but after reading and checking I discovered pin 6 of the cable was broken inside the amp connector. Simple fix. WOW!, this thing is accurate. No ridiculous electrical center due to probe pre-travel. On the wildhorse if I bring the probe to a surface and touch it will not trigger for about 0.0075". The Renishaw MP11 by contrast... maybe a tenth (0.0001"). Now I'm really excited to play. Also, the touch force is much lighter so it should handle soft items like plaster better. I think I just upgraded from a Yugo to a Ferrari.

It even came in a very nice wooden box.
Attachment 319304

[dbtoutfit]

Wow I didn't know you had done so much! I just got a notification. Great work!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[forhire]

Wow I didn't know you had done so much! I just got a notification. Great work!

Thanks.

I spent way too much time messing with the wildhorse but learned a lot. I've even thought about sending wildhorse some photos so they could make their product better. Looking at the Renishaw MP11 manual you'll notice the shank attaches with the conical screws but also has four centering screws.

Now I really need to sit down are reverse engineer the digitizing commands. I really wish I could find a manual for the software.

Attachment 319346

[dbtoutfit]

Only person I know would have it is George. He gave me everything he had and I converted it all to pdf. No real probe manual was in all of that stuff.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[forhire]

Only person I know would have it is George. He gave me everything he had and I converted it all to pdf. No real probe manual was in all of that stuff.

I don't know if it even exists. I spoke with EMI once about digitizing and was told they'd never seen the manual either. I have a pretty good idea of how some of the commands work. I'll start documenting and maybe that will generate more interest. I don't use the digitizing program very often but it has been great for the few things I've used it for.

[dbtoutfit]

How are you go about using the probe on the part in your video?

Looks like you have some idea of how it works. What are you thinking you might can do better or more than you know now?

Eric

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[forhire]

How are you go about using the probe on the part in your video?

Looks like you have some idea of how it works. What are you thinking you might can do better or more than you know now?

I'm using G204 which basically does a small radius until it hits something. The 2D stuff is fairly easy. The rub is that each of these digitizing g-codes have a whole host of switches that control how they work. With the examples I can muddle my way through but it would sure be nice to be able to really optimize it. If it wasn't working ok I wouldn't have invested in the nicer probe.

Here's a list of the commands.
DIGITIZING CYCLES (OPTIONAL SOFTWARE)
*G200 Digitizing Cycle OFF/CANCEL
G201 Basic - Digitize Points, Lines, Arcs
G202 Mesh - Digitize XY Mesh
G203 Z-Trace - Trace Z Normal
G204 XY-Trace - Trace XY Boundary
G205 Cross-Section - (Trace)

[Jonp]

Very interesting Randy, u really got a good deal on the Renshaw, the reason I'm interested is because we do a part that has a existing hole witch is always in a little different place that we go down into to do some features , dialing in each hole is a pain, seems like a probe routine would save time . I need to take, or make the time to figure it out. Jon P.

[forhire]

Very interesting Randy, u really got a good deal on the Renshaw, the reason I'm interested is because we do a part that has a existing hole witch is always in a little different place that we go down into to do some features , dialing in each hole is a pain, seems like a probe routine would save time . I need to take, or make the time to figure it out. Jon P.

Holes are easily done from the Jog menu. The only issue is that you have to probe each direction, X-, X+, Y+/- and store the points then use the GEOM menu to solve the center. I'm sure there is a way to do it automatically using the G200-G205 codes but I haven't tried running probing routines outside of the EZ-Digitize sub-program. I would be interested to know if it was possible to automate the probing. Even still grabbing three points is quick and I find myself using the probe more than expected.

[Steve_Watkins]

Hey, glad you figured it out.

I just checked and it is in fact pin4 and 5.

Now (when i have a second) I just need to figure out where I found the probe tip Dia table. Right now I think I have to calculate the Dia to get center.
If someone finds out how please post it.

BTW
Ive just about finished the TC22 Service Technician Bible to PDF, which is everything about the machine from Schematics/User Manual//Machine Dims/Maint/Servicing/Part and Numbers/VFD Manual to name a few sections. Ive also got some of the add on software like the Digitizer, Ive had a chance install it but not do much than read the manual a little bit.

I couldn't find anyone selling any of the Service Manuals, especially the Service Tech Bible to the TC22, at least anymore.
Hopefully I'll have the TC22 Service Tech Bible on eBay soon. Still cleaning up few Images and making sure every word is searchable.
(Hate PDF's just scanned manuals especially that have no OCR done.)

Eric

Did you ever get the service manual finished? I moving a working Torq Cut 22 into my shop on Monday and it might come in handy

[Steve_Watkins]

Forhire it looks like I may need some more of your help I found a MP11 on ebay and it arrived today.... Looks good except I'm not seeing a power light on...could you tell me how you determined you had the broken # 6 wire on yours, Continuity check?

Edit,,, I just found the pinout on the drawings ( I asked for them in the original post) ... Check me on this.......The probe should get 24 volts from Pin 2, Ground for that from Pin 6, Sensor ground on pin 4 and sensor return on pin 5.....

[oldraven]

Interesting thread !!

I have a Wildhorse probe too and I just bought a MP11 expected to arrive the end of the week.
Th most annoying with the Wildhorse is bad contacts.

I am fed up with it.
Forhire, what is the diameter of the straight shank?
My mill is a humble Sieg SX-3 with rebuild with ballscrews (CNC Fusion).
I want to use the MP11 with a straight shank and a 16 or 20 mm collet.

Jos Raven
Holland

[oldraven]

The MP11 probe arrived today.

Looking good!
I did a quick test and all worked well. Great .

Now I have to make an adapter with a straight shank of 15mm to have it fit in my ER35 collet.
And of course a socket to plug it in.