[RAW]

In the meantime, I have a question about settings.

I'm running the finecut parts.
Last time I cut, I was cutting 16 ga. mild steel, very clean, no rust.

The Hypertherm manual suggests 79V, 40A and 150ipm.

I was running 40A and 115ipm. But when I set the SP to 110, the tip wanted to crash. At 123sp, it ran fine (though maybe a touch high).

Any thoughts from the collective?

BTW, my air supply runs through a refrigerated dryer and a dessicant dryer before it goes to the hypertherm.

[Mike Ray]

I have been using mine at the 80v-85v settings at 150ipm with no issues. I have also been playing with my power settings with good results cutting 16 gauge between 20 and 30 amps.

[Mike Ray]

Well I finally got started and have few pics. As I get more I will post. Pretty staight forward config. We will see if it works

I cut a few pieces for the sheeting. I of course am using the table to make thes cuts.

I am using the joystick and doing straight cuts. I measure and line up the system using the laser guide. I can watch the cut (Wearing safety gear!!! ) and start and stop the cut with very simple push of the buttons. The config on the Joystick allows me to use one control for free hand or the other for staight cuts. It is a standard logitech game controller ($20.00) and I put a USB extension on it so I can walk down the table and watch the work. Great feature!!

Once I cut I can then turn the piece angled on the table and make the next cut, again using the laser to line up the measurements. My cuts are clean and have not needed and cleanup after the cut.

More to come...!

[Conrad_Turbo]

I've been looking at a plasma table for quite some time and looking at the Dynatorch it looks to be one of the TRUE production quality machines. I have read every post of every page in this thread and it seems the majority of the complaints is with the actual plasma cutter and tweaking the settings. Maybe this would be a good area of Dynatorch to do some documentation to give ballpark settings (if they haven't already?) for different material and thicknesses? Kind of like with a MIG welder when it gives you a recommended heat/wire feed speed for a particular thickness material. It's a starting point and then the user can tweak from there, with some guidelines to help along the way?

I will be talking with some of the Dynatorch guys as I plan on picking a CNC table sometime this year (hopefully!!!). Any of you have recommendations for someone who will be new to the game of running/owning a CNC table? I am not new to CAD (been playing with ACAD to SW for the past 13 years) and I'm only 25; however I have always sent my .dxf's to get lasercut and then I go to pick up the parts. So I have no formal/practical CNC cutting experience.

[Mike Ray]

Conrad,

The settings are supplied by the Plasma Company. They are recomendations that get you close. It is sort of an art to see what you can do to cut fast and clean. Sort of on the same line as welding. Your climate plays into it also. While I have a Themal Dynamics unit I love (100amp single phase). A lot more support on other lists out there for the Hypertherm units. Google "Jim Colt" Hypertherm and go http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/ for tons of info on how to cut.

I think you see where most people have issues. Software or Cutting. Dynatorch just seemed to have the best software and the best technology for me. So you wont be disapointed with the DT system. Cutting issues most of the time are more "Clean Dry Air" related.

[Conrad_Turbo]

Conrad,

The settings are supplied by the Plasma Company. They are recomendations that get you close. It is sort of an art to see what you can do to cut fast and clean. Sort of on the same line as welding. Your climate plays into it also. While I have a Themal Dynamics unit I love (100amp single phase). A lot more support on other lists out there for the Hypertherm units. Google "Jim Colt" Hypertherm and go http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/ for tons of info on how to cut.

I think you see where most people have issues. Software or Cutting. Dynatorch just seemed to have the best software and the best technology for me. So you wont be disapointed with the DT system. Cutting issues most of the time are more "Clean Dry Air" related.

Awesome thanks for the heads up! I had a good talk with Walt on Friday of last week and got a lot of my questions answered. The only thing I forgot to ask is that instead of going with a Thermal Dynamics (I am a big fan of that company as I have a TA185 that has performed flawless for me) Cutmaster 101, there is the new Cutmaster True 102...can this be wired up for CNC control the same as the "old" model Cutmaster 101? I will do some digging with the Hypertherm units as well, I've also heard a ton of good reviews about them as well.

[Mike Ray]

Here are a few PICS of my exhaust build out. I am building out onto the existing table frame. The system in going in well and I got a lot accomplished yesterday. It is amazing what you get done when you actually get to go to the shop . It took me weeks to get the frame on the right side in but I did the left side and all the skin on the right in one day. (Plus some other stuff).

The next step in to fill in the middle. I am going to make a pull out cart that fits the whole. I will be able to pull it out or remove it completly. It will have casters. The edge of each side will be "rails" for the cart.

I made the system high enough for my Engine Puller "Crane" to fit under when loading heavier plate.

I am putting the blower outside on a frame set in concrete until I can get my outside pad poured for it and my air compressor.

Mike

[Mike Ray]

I have a rant.

Really just info for people looking at IR. I bought a 2340-L5 15 months ago and got it installed about 6 months past that. It has maybe 10 hours of run time at 15 months (12 month warranty) and the motor fried. I had to get a motor locally to keep working (and it is a better unit). I took the old motor and threw it on the desk at IR and the jury is out on wether they are going to cover it under warranty. I'll update ya'll when I find out. The guys says they got a bunch of these back in. I took it to a pro eletric motor shop and he told me the windings shorted out. IR wanted $400 to replace it (Paid $1199.00 for the whole thing). Got a better motor locally for $300.00 and did not have to wait. On a side note he had a nice reman compressor for 1200.00 that was two stage laydown unit. I thought about getting it and taking my cheapo IR and burning it in the IR parking lot .

2340-L5 apparently is their competitor line to Lowes and Home Depot. They did not tell me this was a cheap built unit so ask questions. Another lesson learned. (Wisdom can't be taught . You get what you pay for is the truest of statements. I even tried to go with higher class stuff and got hosed. Of course the way to go with IR is their 2475 line. It is about 1000.00 more (You can catch them on sale for about 2k) but it is a much better system overall.

But with the 2475 the Air Dryer I bought would not be big enough for that unit. The 2475 is 24cfm and would need a bigger Air Dryer that can support that through put. This would be a few hundred more.

So what I am saying again is the table is only part of the math and investment. I would add another $1500.00 to my exhaust costs. So consider doing the air right you will need between $4 and $5 K to get it right the first time.

Hope this give folks a heads up. My pain can be others gain !!!

Mike

[Mike Ray]

I think this is the coolest !!

I think about robots building and repairing themselves, but I am using my table to finish itself

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzeEoNCUsVM"]YouTube - Dynatorch Cutting[/ame]

My table cutting parts for my table exhaust using the Logitech contoller. I guess this would be free hand cutting. I find my self making a lot of straight cuts this way chopping up steel.

[RAW]

Lookin' good, Mike.
I'm up in my shop this weekend to retrofit the pneumatic gear tensioning system onto my table.

And then practice some TIG welding.

[RAW]

Pneumatic system installed easily enough.
Problem is . . . I don't know what kind of fitting I need to go from the air-compressor to the tiny air hose.
Anyone know what I need to buy specifically?
Visual aids are good.

I think another thing that was contributing to my earlier trouble with the movement . . . . one of the nylon blocks that the motor slides on is loose.
The other block has little to no play in it. The problem block wiggles a good deal.

I'm gonna call the fellas tomorrow and ask for a new one.

[Mike Ray]

Here is a shot of mine ..... Air line connection that is

Crappy Picture - But I added another regulator at the distro block (Which is also a 1 Micron filter) then went to the plumbing section and got a compression fitting that would fit the regulator on one side and the ity bity ass (mechanical term) neumatic line on the other. I'll take a close up pic today and post it.

Oh yeah!! All parts from Lowe's. Regulator in the Air Compressor section of tools and the compression fitting from plumbing ilse.

[RAW]

Well, I went to Lowe's.
I was in the plumbing section looking for ANYTHING to connect to this tiny tubing.
NOTHING they carry is intended for tubing that small!!!

GRRRRRR.

I have the worst luck with Lowe's and Home Depot. No matter what I'm looking for . . . they're either out of it or don't carry it at the store I'm in.

I guess I'll have to call Dynatorch and get some part number or something so that I can order it.

[KjZitur]

Try McMaster-Carr.com....they have just about anything one would need and if I order it before 6:00 PM , I will have it by 3 o'clock in the afternoon

[RAW]

Yep, got some sizing info from Greg this morning.
And went to Mcmaster's website and found what I need.

Unfortunately, it may be a couple of weeks before I can get back to the shop.

[Edwardo]

Hey guys

Got my table mostly done, just need the slats and slat holders on, bit of a snag with the plasma unit, but should have it this week sometimes. Thought i had ordered the table from DT, but as it turns out i didnt, so picked up the steel and built my own, went with 1/4 tubing instead of 1/8, looks real good, as soon as i figure out how to post pics here i'll send some.

EDD

[RAW]

Well . . . damnit.

I finally got back up to the shop. I installed the air-fitting from McMaster. It worked like a charm.

But when I turned everything on and tried to run the gantry around . . ..

I'm STILL getting that hesitation/stuttering on the Y axis. And it's only in the one direction!! I'm so frustrated.

If I'm running at a higher speed, it doesn't throw a fault now. But . . . at slower speeds the stuttering will stop the Y axis completely in the one direction.

One thing I did notice today . . . you can hear a "clatter" as the gantry rolls down the Y axis towards the "home corner". I can't detect any wobbling or weirdness from LOOKING, but . .. . putting a hand on the gantry . . . you can FEEL a roughness to correspond to the "clatter."

My gantry was fully assembled when I picked it up in Paducah. Is there anything I should check? I know this is impossible to diagnose without being in the room with the problem, but . . . . I'm just at the end of my sanity here.

I've sent an email to the Dynatorch guys and I'm sure I'll also call first thing tomorrow morning. I sure hope they can help me out of this jam.

The table and motors and all of that have sooooooo few hours of operation time. I just don't understand what is causing this problem.

[RAW]

So, let's see if this works.

Here's a video I just shot of the y-axis motor moving along with joystick control, but with pneumatic pressure backed down to 20psi so that it won't stutter as much.

Each time it stops coming towards the camera . . . I have the joystick pulled towards me still. In order to get it moving again, I try releasing the joystick and pulling it again.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U944E7n4wuA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U944E7n4wuA[/ame]

[RAW]

This is the same y-axis movement with keyboard control . . . which is faster. So with the pressure backed down it'll move, but . . . notice the increased "clatter" as it moves towards the camera.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N9VdWtt390"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N9VdWtt390[/ame]

If I increase the pneumatic pressure to 40 psi as suggested, the movement will stutter even at this speed.

I'm so confused (and increasingly irritated).

I really think there's something faulty with the way the motor gear is engaging the gear rail.

[cstroke]

This is the same y-axis movement with keyboard control . . . which is faster. So with the pressure backed down it'll move, but . . . notice the increased "clatter" as it moves towards the camera.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N9VdWtt390

If I increase the pneumatic pressure to 40 psi as suggested, the movement will stutter even at this speed.

I'm so confused (and increasingly irritated).

I really think there's something faulty with the way the motor gear is engaging the gear rail.

did you send the video down to bruce, greg or russell?
they would be able to diagnose this quickly i'd think
good luck
mine studdered like that on the x axis and i found my gear was rubbing the side frame.. my own doing..