3/8" Onsrud compression bit, 280ipm at 8500rpm
Did a bit of profiling last night. Legs for a piece of furniture.
100 ipm at 15 000 rpm. .25 rough depth.
Attachment 283054Attachment 283056Attachment 283058Attachment 283060
Looking in to flip milling next. It'll involve horizontal finishing with ball mill. Mmmmmm so exciting!
Has anyone incorporated an air blower in to a dust shroud to help clear chips out of the cut?
if by flip milling you mean 2 sided cutting, its a little bit of an adventure in itself. it took me 5 or 6 tries to get 2 sided cutting to line up perfectly.
i used the pin method, cutting 2 .25 holes on opposite ends of the project and then 2 holes in the spoil board and then flipping it over and inserting a pin to line them up. i found that you want to have the pin so tight into the hole that you have to use a light tap with a hammer to get it to seat, but not so tight that you have to really whack it, because then your crushing one side of the hole, and the piece will not be centered anymore.
when you cut both sides, every tiny problem is doubled, so if your X and Y axis are not exactly 90 degrees, it will be obvious. if your spindle is not 90 degrees to the spoil board, it will show.
i don't have a CNC right now, but i've always thought, if i go shopping for a used one, my test will be to cut out a 12 by 12 square in 3/4 MDF going half way through both sides, it really is a great test of exactly how tuned the machine is.
i have never worried about the chips gathering inside the cut, i figured it doesn't cause much of an issue for the next time the router goes over that spot.
my CNC had a router instead of a spindle, how would you describe the noise level from your spindle?
what feed rate and depth of cut did you use for that brass?
i have not cut any metal yet on my cncrp
2 flute carbide 30 degree helix. 10 000 rpm, 10 ipm, 0.025 depth of cut.
this is 355 brass alloy.
Since I have a home theater subwoofer business and just ordered a 5x10 CNCRP Pro, that makes me happy. What feed rate and what bit are you using? Anew is that 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood? Is that a Kent dust shoe or did you make your own? Thanks for sharing.
I've done a bit more adjustments on the X-rail and squared the spindle again.
Put a new spoil board and resurfaced it. Learned how to "face" 17" wide boards, using surfacing bit. Actually very handy because my jointer is only 12" wide.
I used more connectors between spoil-board and aluminum framing and it's flatter and sturdier.
Here I am cutting chair parts. 3/8" spiral down bit was zeroed on the spoil-board and then raised 0.0001. The tip of the bit did cut through the mahogany but not through the spoil board. It was so close however that it impregnated MDF with Mahogany dust. Pretty cool!
dgage,
1/4 compression from Whiteside. 150ipm (round about) and 12000 rpm
Kent dust shoe. (really like it)
BTW, I am one of the Parts Express newly selected Design Team members.
(1/4" not 3/4" corrected the size of the compression bit)
Thanks for the info R-Carpenter. And congrats on being a Parts Express Design Team member!
David
playing with Window Movie maker
Very cool. Thanks for sharing!
Here's another vid. Finished design for a mid sized line array speaker for Parts Express.