[David Da Costa]

Good idea Joe

[joecnc2006]

here are some cases you can use, they have some handheld, with rubber sides.

http://www.pactecenclosures.com/index.html

joe

[bp092]

david, got a lot of goodies today, my router, bits, and my mouser stuff that I ordered (matched yours thanks for the #'s). Mouser is great and organized like bolt depot, I'm thinking that e-stores will end most retail stores pretty soon. To drive to get my router it would take approx 1 hour + a few gallons gas or so. That's atleast a few bucks in gas and an hour wasted. Or use my amazon prime account and pay $4 for overnight shipping. that was a fairly easy decision.. anyhow, you should have gotten your mouser stuff by now? That black case is nice, and large, I thought I would be fighting for room. When you're done or as you're doing it please snap some photos, would be helpful. Also that power cord, I sort of ordered it without thinking, is that to extend the router's short cord? If so, what kind of connectors are you going to use to link them up together? Also see if you can get a shot of your new cable hookups for the motor's that you were going to do so it is more plug and play . Thanks David, look forward to seeing how your controller looks, mine will look much of the same. I'm going to cut and drill all the holes by hand but will just buy another case later on and cut all the cutouts on my router .

[David Da Costa]

Sounds good.

I'm busy building my controller as I speak. My transformer and rectifier turned up this afternoon so I can start final assembly. There is not much room in the case when you put a transformer and a cap the size of a soda can!!

Attached are some picture of the current state.

The first picture shows the front plate with connections etc in place but not yet wired. I also need to decide how I am going to label everything.

The second picture is the front view (with the front plate removed). The bottom board is the CNC4PC.com multifunction card and the top board is the HobbyCNC controller.

The third picture show the rear view. I made up a short ribbon connector for the DB25 connection between the two boards.

The forth picture is again from the rear but with the power supply components placed in position (but not yet fixed). I made a bracket out of HDPE for the capacitor.

Now for some questions;

On the transformer I am expecting to have 2 wires for 115VAC but as you can see on the transformer there are 4. I am assuming that as I want 24Vdc out I need to power both coils and therefore I wire to the top black 120V and bottom red 120V - can someone confirm. Also does it matter which wire the 4A fuse goes?

On the other side of the transformer, again I need two wire going to the bridge rectifier but I have 3 as marked on the transformer; 2 blue marked 12V and 1 yellow marked 10A, how do I wire these to the rectifier?

On the rectifier I have one corner (which is mitered) marked with a "+" which I know goes to the "+" on the capacitor and the corner next to that is marked "AC" which I assume goes to one of the wires from the transformer.

Would I be right in assuming that the opposite corner to the one marked "+" is the "-" and goes to the "-" on the capacitor and the one opposite the one marked "AC" comes from the transformer. I believe it does not matter which of the "AC" connectors goes to the transformer.

I also will connect the 2 terminals on the capacitor with a bleed resistor.

What gauge wire is recommended for wiring the power supply?

Of course any help with these questions is on the understanding that I take full and sole responsibility for wiring the power supply up

THanks


David

[bp092]

looks good david, by the couch here brought everything up, too tired to stand downstairs in my shop lol.. got everything spread on the table wiring the stuff in.. so that connector and the new power cord, is that what you're using to extend the router power cord? looking at it, isn't it just basically an extension cord you're adding? I mean is there a big difference between me using an extension cord or that?

[David Da Costa]

The extension cord goes from the router through the igus cable and plugs into the socket on the back of the controller case. There is no difference other than I ordered a long ac cord with pigtails on the end that the router cable plugs into. I then threaded this end through the igus cable, mine are the non opening kind, so it was my only option then I put the plug on the pigtails and plugged the router into that.

[bp092]

Oh that's right, forgot about them not opening. Oh yeah, for the xylotex or hobbycnc to the multifunction card, is the only connection between them the printer port? Also, you wired your limits in series (I did the same) and put them in as 3 plugs. I got those quick connects same as you ordered from mouser, did you wire them to the multifunction card? If so cnc4pc's wiring chart says that 12 and GND (mine says 12 and 5v, 5v's for all the gnds on that input side). How'd you wire those in there? Estop is easy because at the current state I only have 1 lol.

[bp092]

Oh I see, arturo said that the 5 inputs are up to the user to choose. 1 or 2 for estops, and 3 for each axis in series. That makes sense. Doh!

[David Da Costa]

Yes the only connection between the two card is the printer port. On the Xylotex it is not a db25 connector its the connector that comes with the board with a db25 on one end. It's that end that plugs into the DB25 port labelled "Output" on the multifunction card.

No, that not the right connectors on the multifunction card, that is for the power from the power supply you bought from CNC4PC.

The connector you want is a similar black strip but it will be labelled something like 10-GND-11-GND- etc so for example the e-stop normally goes to 10 + the GND next to it, the X limit goes to 11 or whatever you like (check the Mach 3 config I sent you under config-ports and pins-input tab and see what ports I am using there and use the same ones.

[bp092]

no david, did not mean those as the numbers, meant (2) for the estops and (3) for each series.. sorry for the confusion, thanks for the info on the db25

[joecnc2006]

Sounds good.

I'm busy building my controller as I speak. My transformer and rectifier turned up this afternoon so I can start final assembly. There is not much room in the case when you put a transformer and a cap the size of a soda can!!

Attached are some picture of the current state.

The first picture shows the front plate with connections etc in place but not yet wired. I also need to decide how I am going to label everything.

The second picture is the front view (with the front plate removed). The bottom board is the CNC4PC.com multifunction card and the top board is the HobbyCNC controller.

The third picture show the rear view. I made up a short ribbon connector for the DB25 connection between the two boards.

The forth picture is again from the rear but with the power supply components placed in position (but not yet fixed). I made a bracket out of HDPE for the capacitor.

Now for some questions;

On the transformer I am expecting to have 2 wires for 115VAC but as you can see on the transformer there are 4. I am assuming that as I want 24Vdc out I need to power both coils and therefore I wire to the top black 120V and bottom red 120V - can someone confirm. Also does it matter which wire the 4A fuse goes?

On the other side of the transformer, again I need two wire going to the bridge rectifier but I have 3 as marked on the transformer; 2 blue marked 12V and 1 yellow marked 10A, how do I wire these to the rectifier?

On the rectifier I have one corner (which is mitered) marked with a "+" which I know goes to the "+" on the capacitor and the corner next to that is marked "AC" which I assume goes to one of the wires from the transformer.

Would I be right in assuming that the opposite corner to the one marked "+" is the "-" and goes to the "-" on the capacitor and the one opposite the one marked "AC" comes from the transformer. I believe it does not matter which of the "AC" connectors goes to the transformer.

I also will connect the 2 terminals on the capacitor with a bleed resistor.

What gauge wire is recommended for wiring the power supply?

Of course any help with these questions is on the understanding that I take full and sole responsibility for wiring the power supply up

THanks


David

Ok, just got home, sorry could not respond earlier.

the transformer i have two red and two black wired together per color, on the other side two blue = 24v 10a and one blue and yellow makes 12v 10a, so use two blue and cap off the yellow.

The rectifier you are correct, connections are oposite corner of each other, and "+" (mitered) is DC+ and the oposite corner is DC-, The AC does not matter polarity.

[David Da Costa]

no david, did not mean those as the numbers, meant (2) for the estops and (3) for each series.. sorry for the confusion, thanks for the info on the db25

You right now I am confused as you mentioned 12 and 5v and there is no 5v if you are connecting to the right connector.

[gtschance]

David if I read the drawing right (pretty sure!) what you have is a transformer capable of being wired 120/240 primary and it is a Center Tapped Secondary capable of delivering 12VAC x 2 or 24VAC x 1.

Thus for your requirement for 120 in and 24 out in the diagram you would wire as follows:

Primary

Black+Black - one side of 120 AC - conventionally this is the hot leg
Red+Red - other side of 120 AC - conventionally this is the neutral leg

Secondary

Tape off (insulate the Yellow wire - it will be unused)

You will get 24V AC between the two blue secondary wires.

By the way (NOT for your case) the Center tap configuration is useful for delivering other voltages (2 x 12) in a configuration where the yellow would be ground and one of the blues would be +12 and the other would be -12. Again, not what you are looking for. If you were looking for 240V in, you would wire the two "center" black and reds together and wire 240 input on the "outer" black and reds.

----------

For a bridge rectifier of the style you described it is convention to have the following:

A lug marked AC and a lug marked +. The corresponding AC input is normally diagonal from the AC and the corresponding minus (-) output is normally diagonal from the lug marked +

Convention is to mark all four lugs when the above is NOT followed.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
George

[David Da Costa]

Ok, just got home, sorry could not respond earlier.

the transformer i have two red and two black wired together per color, on the other side two blue = 24v 10a and one blue and yellow makes 12v 10a, so use two blue and cap off the yellow.

The rectifier you are correct, connections are oposite corner of each other, and "+" (mitered) is DC+ and the oposite corner is DC-, The AC does not matter polarity.

Thanks Joe, so just to be clear on the 120V side I wire the 2 reds together and the 2 black together? I assume the red goes to the large prong on the AC plug and the black to the small. I also assume the fuse goes on the black wire.

There are no grounds in the circuit.

Thanks

David

edit: okay I think George clarified, I need to reverse what I said above and the black goes to the large prong not the red and the fuse goes on the red. Thanks George and Joe.

[bp092]

David, it's the right side. Not sure why it says 5v and not gnd..

15 5V 12 5V 11 5V 10 5V 13 5V is eaxactly what it says.. weird? Remember this is not your modified one, they are 4 sep cards. But the wiring manual for c1 says GND. Maybe I will email arturo...

[David Da Costa]

That is weird, I would send Arturo an email as they should be grounds not 5 volts.

[bp092]

Will do, that external power supply however has a red and white wire + grounds on both. Did you wire both red and white into the 5v head and the copper into the GND? It says you can leave it open all the time or use a switch (shows in drawing too) or use a safety charge pump. In yours it's built in, in mine I have to add it as a sep. card. Where'd you put your power switch? I have my radio shack one, with 3 prongs, one for each state and the third I think is for the LED. Thanks

[gtschance]

David,

For the pictured transformer, which side of the INPUT (RED's vs. BLACK's) that is wired to hot and neutral MAINS does not matter at all electrically.

G

[David Da Costa]

Will do, that external power supply however has a red and white wire + grounds on both. Did you wire both red and white into the 5v head and the copper into the GND? It says you can leave it open all the time or use a switch (shows in drawing too) or use a safety charge pump. In yours it's built in, in mine I have to add it as a sep. card. Where'd you put your power switch? I have my radio shack one, with 3 prongs, one for each state and the third I think is for the LED. Thanks

No, be carefull and read the instruction and the back of the power supply (I assume the one you got from CNC4PC), one color is the 12v and the other is 5v the back of the power supply says which pin is which then just trace it back.

My power switch is just on the AC side of the power supply. As you said I use the charge pump to enable the card.

I could never get my power switch light to behave as I expected, it comes on when power is off and off when power is on.

[David Da Costa]

David,

For the pictured transformer, which side of the INPUT (RED's vs. BLACK's) that is wired to hot and neutral MAINS does not matter at all electrically.

G

Thanks again George.

By the way what gauge wire should I use for the transformer/recitifier/capacitor wiring?

Thanks