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  1. #741
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    david.. thanks for the tip...


    says pin 3 is +5VDC and pin 5 is +12 VDC

    I looked the the pins and followed and see that red and white are 1 and 4 common, and the copper grounds are +12 VDC and the +5VDC isn't even hooked into anything the other ground is just a common.. I'm confused lol

  2. #742
    I have not got it handy at the moment, but that doesn't sound right. Red and white are 12v and 5v (can't remember which is which) and then each has a copper ground which can be common. Are you sure you are looking at the socket from the right side?

  3. #743
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    lol you're right, and I'm once again tired and looking at it wrong, LOL

  4. #744
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    57
    David,

    16 AWG stranded or larger for margin. Standard lamp cord (18 AWG) split apart will generally do OK if you do not already have a roll of 16 AWG hookup wire. Do not go smaller than 18 AWG.

    George

  5. #745
    No problem

  6. #746
    Thanks George

  7. #747
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    57
    David,

    A hint for future mains wiring with transformers, should the need arise :-)

    A UL/CE certified CHASSIS (not PCB) transformer SHOULD have its input and output lead wires (as already supplied) at the proper guage for runs of 12 inches or less. Longer runs, larger wire. Often you will find the supplied input leads are not long enough to reach either your switch or your plug/fuse connectors so it is best to go one or more guages larger if you have to splice (meaning lower number guage). If your layout allows for you to go to terminal strips with lugs, the actual run to the termination point beyond should be of the larger size.

    George

  8. #748
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    david, you said you use the safety charge pump to power the card, so you didn't wire a switch in between the charge pump and the rest of the card like he shows in a detail.. again this is confusing because you have the all in one and I have sep. but the fundamentals are still the same.. anyhow, you have the switch on the AC side, on the mini relay part? Man I'm just lost on some of this stuff, the machine is easy, the wiring for it is a cake walk but just getting these cards all together and figuring out what goes were is giving me a head ache. Should have just waited for the new card, seems like it might be easier to have everything done for you. Arturo said it would be more wiring but wouldn't be hard. I'm thinking I should have waited lol. I looked at the ac relay manual and don't even know where to start. Wonder if anyone here at the zone has used arturos stuff and has pics of the setup? You're the only one that has been vocal about it.

  9. #749
    Quote Originally Posted by gtschance View Post
    David,

    A hint for future mains wiring with transformers, should the need arise :-)

    A UL/CE certified CHASSIS (not PCB) transformer SHOULD have its input and output lead wires (as already supplied) at the proper guage for runs of 12 inches or less. Longer runs, larger wire. Often you will find the supplied input leads are not long enough to reach either your switch or your plug/fuse connectors so it is best to go one or more guages larger if you have to splice (meaning lower number guage). If your layout allows for you to go to terminal strips with lugs, the actual run to the termination point beyond should be of the larger size.

    George
    Thanks for the information George.

  10. #750
    Quote Originally Posted by bp092 View Post
    david, you said you use the safety charge pump to power the card, so you didn't wire a switch in between the charge pump and the rest of the card like he shows in a detail.. again this is confusing because you have the all in one and I have sep. but the fundamentals are still the same.. anyhow, you have the switch on the AC side, on the mini relay part? Man I'm just lost on some of this stuff, the machine is easy, the wiring for it is a cake walk but just getting these cards all together and figuring out what goes were is giving me a head ache. Should have just waited for the new card, seems like it might be easier to have everything done for you. Arturo said it would be more wiring but wouldn't be hard. I'm thinking I should have waited lol. I looked at the ac relay manual and don't even know where to start. Wonder if anyone here at the zone has used arturos stuff and has pics of the setup? You're the only one that has been vocal about it.

    The charge pump does not power the card, but enables output to the motors so that they cannot move until Mach 3 is running or if lets say Windows or Mach 3 crashes they will be disabled.

    My only power switch is as I said on the AC side but not on any relay simply on the ac input to the power supply.

    I went with the multifunction card for that reason. You could just simplyfy and not use that stuff and wait for the new multifunction card. It won't stop you from cuttting.

  11. #751
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    Oh I know.. just a little bummed out. Maybe I will ask arturo for an exchange. I know i'm not going to add in the variable speed control for awhile that's way out of my league as far as figuring that stuff out right now. I would like to at the very least though have a safety charge pump and e-stop/limits in before I run the router this weekend.

  12. #752
    Yes as you said it is kind of difficult as I don't have the multiple cards to wire so it is a bit different for you.

  13. #753

    Controller Finished

    I have now finished my controller with the HobbyCNC board so I thought I would share a few pictures with you.

    The first picture is obviously the inside showing the power supply, HobbyCNC controller board and underneath that is the CNC4PC multifunction card.

    The second picture is the front. Notice this time I decided not to mount a E-stop button as I am going to mount one on my pendant. The socket labeled "Aux" can be used by a remote e-stop of a tool height setter.

    The third picture shows the rear. The small socket on the left is for the usb cable that supplies 5v to the multifunction card, the socket to the right provides 12v & 5v for the multifunction card, the next to the right is the AC in and the socket under that is for the Router power and is controlled by the solid state relay on the multifunction card.

    I am still waiting for my cable to connect the controller to the motors, but that should be here by Monday.

    David
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails controller 3 (1).jpg   controller 2 (1).jpg   controller 1 (1).jpg  

  14. #754
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Looks great as usual, makes my wood box look like crap... lol well i have to paint it now.


    I see you machine'd a mount for the Cap.

    Joe

  15. #755
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    yeah looks nice david, you did a really good job finding room.. gives me great hope since I don't have to find a place to mount that soda can and industrial sized power grid LOL.. but I may soon enough .. working with Arturo to hopefully get my stuff wired tonight and tomorrow morning and cutting tomorrow afternoon to test out the kinks of the machine.. plan to use the eswitch in this fashion instead

    http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/E_STOP_N_SCHP.pdf

    but still have to figure out how I'm going to do everything, sending you a pm now

  16. #756
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    480
    Looks very nice David! Can't wait to see it in action, will be watching on Monday.

    I've got a busy day planned for tomorrow. Have my HobbyCNC controller / PSU unit built. Will hook up with 200oz HobbyCNC supplied steppers.
    Received the threaded clamps from DumpsterCNC so I'll install them tomorrow and I've got all of the wood I need to finish my stand.
    Will post video and pictures tomorrow evening.

    Keep up the great work!

  17. #757
    Thanks guys. I am quite pleased how the controller box turned out, not just have to wait to Monday for the cable.

  18. #758
    Here is the Cyclone collector that I am going to be using with my Delta dust collector. I am just using a 5 gallon bucket as I don't have much room but I think it should be fine.

    The cyclone collector is from www.clearvuecyclones.com
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails controller.jpg  

  19. #759
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    I used a 5 gallon bucket for a long time worked fine, just emptied to to often for my cutting i do as you can imagine with the kits.

    I just wonder about the CFM of the mini cyclone with the delta, do they match? do you have a link to it, i know it is clezarview and will have to look at their site but if you had a quick link or scanned paper work could review.

    Joe

  20. #760
    Yes, I to was concerned about it as it is designed to work with shop vacs, s0 I asked Ed at ClearVue and this is what he said,

    "If you are presently having success with the dust collector when the filter is clean, then the mini will work great to keep the bag clean and your dust collector operating at peak efficiency. If you have the right pickup around the cutter on the CNC router ( I have mine surrounded with a 2" long brush that acts as a barrier to the dust) then you probably won't need too much air flow to capture the fine dust. Keep in touch and let me know how it works."

    The link is here http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Order_Page.htm

    It is down the page and is called Mini CV06 Cyclone. There is also a video of i it in operation.

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