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IndustryArena Forum > Community Club House > Machinist Hangout > Drilling 1018 steel on Mazak lathe
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    48

    Drilling 1018 steel on Mazak lathe

    we are drilling 1.375" hole x 5.3" deep in 1018 steel. we are using coolant thru the tool but the drill body has a tendency to pick up chips and weld them when the drill is at a 5" depth. It is a thru hole. we are using an insert drill using WCMT 060308 inserts. We are drilling at 1390 RPM @ ,005" feed rate per rev. This problem doesn't happen all the time but after drilling maybe 70 holes to 170 holes, the problem appears. Any thoughts?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0931.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    4

    Re: Drilling 1018 steel on Mazak lathe

    Have you tried a peck cycle?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    162

    Re: Drilling 1018 steel on Mazak lathe

    Do you see a good amount of coolant coming up and out of the hole to help flush chips out? That deep you would need a ton of coolant.
    Do the chips have a place to evacuate?
    Might be out of my league but 1018 has a cutting speed of 100, coated carbide X4 divided by diameter of 1.375 comes out to 290 rpm.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    12

    Re: Drilling 1018 steel on Mazak lathe

    Ok.... So, Its an evac problem for sure. My solution first is HP coolant 200 psi or more. If not available on that machine then a 2 or 3 step drill cycle. Put the peddle down to start then in the last inch change tools to a twist drill or some thing that has good evacuation geometry. Then go back and finish . It may take an extra minute or five but you won't be smoking good tooling

    Or write a macro for a custom drilling cycle.

    Good luck

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    2

    Re: Drilling 1018 steel on Mazak lathe

    Your S&F are right for your insert.
    First step is to check for coolant pressure, drilling at that depth would need alot of pressure to effectively remove chips.
    Second I'd look at the inserts after about 20 parts to see if it has chipped or an edge has built up.
    If you are drilling a smaller hole prior to using the 1.375, that hole may be pulling the larger drill off center and causing it to rub on the sides of the hole.
    My money is on your coolant though. With that kind of discoloration those tools must have been red hot coming out of the part.
    If your still having issues try using a slightly smaller drill and coming in for a clean up with either a boring bar or the leading insert side of your drill.
    But coolant flow before anything you want it blasting out of that sucker.

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