[extent]

The point of the spring collet is it's undersized. So when you're using the spring collet version you have two nuts. The tool and mini tool holder, which is all set and tightened down, and then the mini tool holder fits in the full sized collet. Or you use their little sidelock tool holder. You never want the tool to bottom out, because the collet will pull it in as it tightens, but since the tool and mini collet don't need to come apart in a tool change your tool offset doesn't change, because it's at a fixed distance from the ER taper of the spindle.

I agree also that it all seems a waste of money and not any improvement in time. Pricy too. Cost more than even a nice ER11 toolholder, and you still need a toolsetter.

[jo_ky]

You never want the tool to bottom out, because the collet will pull it in as it tightens, but since the tool and mini collet don't need to come apart in a tool change your tool offset doesn't change, because it's at a fixed distance from the ER taper of the spindle.

Oh, okay. Thanks for clearing me up on that. I get what it's for, now. And that it doesn't make sense to buy that many collet holders and collets, to have tool offsets set in that way. Yeah, it might make sense for a particular production setup, but not for me. Ok!

[jo_ky]

I wanted to check squareness of the frame, so I used the Z-axis pre-setter tool at each corner of the machine's X-Y extents. I got the following measurements for the tool tip @ z-max to table, vertical distances:

x-min, y-min: 96.559
x-max, y-min: 97.163
x-min, y-max: 96.691
x-max, y-max: 97.047

I installed a shim made from .02" aluminum sheet on the gantry arm. New measurements are:

x-min, y-min: 92.550
x-max, y-min: 92.794
x-min, y-max: 92.634
x-max, y-max: 92.663

Much better!

[Mmpie]

What's the smallest end mill anyone's got away with using on aluminium on one of these? I need to emboss some text on a one off. I reckon the spindle runs out too much and the frame is too wobbly to use anything small enough.

The text is quite large but there's an 'M' and it needs to look good.


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[RCaffin]

Photos? (of poor example for sure)

You have several factors to consider:
Flatness of the surface - machine it flat 1st and don't move it
Frame flexing - run very slowly & minimise acceleration
Cutter accuracy - cheap Chinese engraving tips are rarely good enough - big runout
Spindle run-out - little or no solution

I have been machining some small features with a (good carbide) 1.0 mm ball-end mill. This produces a quite fine line when only 0.05 mm into the surface.

Cheers
Roger

[Mmpie]

I've not tried it yet, but looking for options to do the lettering. The ali engine block has been polished to a lovely shine and the original cover really lets it down, this will match nicely. My plan is to do it all in one set up by holding the block down with clamps, milling out the pockets for the bolts then bolting through there and milling the rest. Not entirely sure whether I'm going to do the angled surfaces with a normal end mill and parallel, a ball mill, or try and grind a tool to the right angle but I reckon I'm going to just go with a ball and clean it up on the sander after. But I'm not sure on doing the 'M', not sure the OMIO is up to the task with such a small end mill.




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[extent]

I would probably try and make a fixture to hold the angled surface flat for your text operation, just cut out all the surfacing issues right there. Once you've knocked the bulk of the material off with a 6mm there won't be a lot to remove with the smaller endmills, though the smallest I've run is about 2mm. if you can get down to 1mm that might not be so bad, just see what you can get away with putting the radiuses in in cad. Maybe want to do finishing profiles with progressively smaller tools just like when doing clearing so that you don't have to profile the entire thing with that tiny tool. It'll probably leave marks at the transitions, but they'll only be in those deep corners, and probably less of a problem than trashing a bunch of tiny endmills trying to make it do a lot more work than they need to.

[Mmpie]

grind an angled milling tool?

I would probably try and make a fixture to hold the angled surface flat for your text operation, just cut out all the surfacing issues right there. Once you've knocked the bulk of the material off with a 6mm there won't be a lot to remove with the smaller endmills, though the smallest I've run is about 2mm. if you can get down to 1mm that might not be so bad, just see what you can get away with putting the radiuses in in cad. Maybe want to do finishing profiles with progressively smaller tools just like when doing clearing so that you don't have to profile the entire thing with that tiny tool. It'll probably leave marks at the transitions, but they'll only be in those deep corners, and probably less of a problem than trashing a bunch of tiny endmills trying to make it do a lot more work than they need to.

Yes was thinking of taking a spot drill and grinding the tip down to the desired angle. Not sure how well that would work and would be a pain to get right on both sides.

It's a long piece, and as a one off figured not worth the time making an angle plate for it, as it would probably take as long if not longer than just contouring with a ball, extra cost, added complexity needing 3 or 4 setups and still need cleaning up on the sander anyway to get a nice finish.

That was my idea with the lettering, but even 1mm leaves the M looking crap (simulated). Maybe a small 60 degree spot drill or similar could clean up in the corners. There'll be a bit of a slope but it might look passable.


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[RCaffin]

You know, part of your problem is that you want raised lettering. This is difficult. But if you went to slightly recessed lettering it would be much easier. Does raised/recessed really matter? Or is the big score the brand itself?

Mach3 even has a 'Writer' which lets you engrave lettering. You could experiment with that.

Cheers
Roger

[extent]

or just deck the whole top flat and spot holes for locating pegs for each letter, then machine the letters out of thin sheet stock and glue them in. You could do the M in 4 parts, the diamonds each as a separate part etc. Lap the mating surfaces together, glue with retaining compound then polish the top surface and you shouldn't even be able to see the seam. But it's not a way of saving work for sure.

Could you leave the 1mm radius insides and then come in with a V bit and just sharpen up the very top of the letter? You wouldn't be able to get much depth, but could clean up the actual flat surface of the letter, and then just have a little 3d chamfer down into the radiused stock. Might be easier to get away with if you were planning on a two tone valve cover, where the letter face is polished but the cover is painted. Could probably even get basically the same thing by just hand finishing it with a tiny triangle file, it's not too many inside corners.

--

Actually that's almost exactly what you said, so you're already thinking the same thing. Just a v bit you could get a little sharper point than a spot drill

[Mmpie]

I tried sinking the lettering in and ran a simulation engraving them first, it both didn't look right and the radius on every corner ruined the premium look.

I really like that idea of cutting the letters out in separate pieces and joining. I'd thought about trying to make the letters separately but had the same problem with the corners. I think I'll try that, which if it works well, means I can just use a chunk of tooling plate and not have to face off the top. Also saves trying to deburr between the letters where I've changed tools and I can just hit the whole top surface with a light sanding and polish before putting the letters on. 2mm sheet is cheap enough to do a trial with as well.

If only I had a laser

Will likely be a couple of weeks before I try to run this. Will come back with how it managed.


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[LoveNature]

What's the maximum workpiece size for the 4th axis on an X8-2200?

edit: came across a part of the answer:

Still would like to know what length it roughly can take.

[jo_ky]

I figured out something that I remember was asked at some point in this thread. If, during your tool charge, you can't jog the machine to rezero the Z, here is the solution: 1) Set your CAM post to not generate M1, or set Mach 3 to ignore M1 in general settings. 2) For the tool change section, in Mach 3 general settings, tell it to stop spindle and wait for cycle.

This is different than the stock OMIO settings file. But Mach has a limitation that makes it so you can't jog during an M1 (for some types of drivers).

Will come back with how it managed.

:thumbsup:

Still would like to know what length it roughly can take.

I think that would depend on what you're milling, right? If it's just foam or something, then certainly the full length of the table is available, minus the space needed to get the vise and tailstock clamped on.

On the other hand, if it's a denser and harder material, I think that a very long workpiece like that would present problems.

[dharmic]

If you set it up length wise with the head at the back of the machine (where the lost area for the gantry) and the tailstock at the front, you'll get near on 500mm.

Bear in mind, however, that machining an unsupported 500mm span on any machine can be problematic as the cutting force may well bend the part.

[jo_ky]

If you set it up length wise with the head at the back of the machine (where the lost area for the gantry) and the tailstock at the front, you'll get near on 500mm.

They said X8, though. So I think it's about 700mm, no?

[dharmic]

Derp. Yeah, probably

[LoveNature]

Ok thanks, hadn't thought about the support on such long work pieces.

[Belarusian]

Anyone else having issues with Mach3 making the machine plunge -5mm below the origin every time you 'go to zero'?
I've worked around the issue by probing the tool just before I cycle start but it's obviously not ideal. Currently planning on putting together a new controller using a UC100 however I've read other members in this thread resolving this issue but never specifying how.

[Mmpie]

Yes. I forgot what does it, think it's when you're at full Z+ and have soft limits on.

The easiest work around is to put in the MDI

G90 G54 G0 X0 Y0

Then move Z down as you need.


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[jo_ky]

I'd also be interested in fixing the issue with the Goto Zero button. When I first experienced that problem was when I decided that Mach 3 is not going to work for me, long term. I used to be a software developer, and it's just too frustrating to work with software that has complete disregard for usability like that. Looking at the UCCNC screens, and the way the interface seems to actually make sense, I'm so jealous!

I want to report that I got a Kent CNC dust shoe, the Mini with the 60mm mount diameter and a 3" brush ring. It fits fine, but only just barely! I've tried it out with wood and HDPE, and I'm happy with the performance. The workmanship on the one I got is not that great, though - there's a sloppy seal on the adhesive holding in the hose connector. At least the design is nice. I really like being able to see through the base.

On the way, now, I have a Kool Mist 60M12 spray mister. I would have gotten the Noga, but it comes with very short supply lines, and to get the 2 meter ones would have cost me more than the unit itself. No thanks.