[Mmpie]

Thanks so much for the fast reply.... a followup

1. So again, I would need to acquire a different collet for 1/8" shaft bit and a different one for a 1/4", or am I confused more?

2. If the Mach3 that comes with mine work out of the box.. I see no sense in purchasing a registered copy.

3. Perhaps I should take this question to the vectric forum or the gurus... but I was hoping for a bit more understanding of the programs. Again, if I create a toolpath file(s) in Vcarve and open it in Mach3... would I still need to set anything in Mach3, or is the Mach3 program totally reliant on the toolpath file(s)? Looking at screenshots of the Mach3, it looks very complex and I'd rather just open the file and hit go and expect everything set from the vcarve toolpath file. The only thing I would need is to zero the X Y & Z and ensure the proper tool bit is installed. Is this all correct?

Yes a collet has a range of sizes it can fit. ER11 collets in metric have a 0.5mm range. So a 6mm collet could fit a 5.5mm > 6mm shank tool innit. But best to try to get and use collets as close to the shank size you are using as you can.

3. Yes that's right. Mach3 can do lots of complicated things and has lots of complicated settings you will never need bother think about, don't be scared of it. So your workflow will be:

1. Draw part in CAD
2. Program toolpath in CAM (v-carve)
3. Open toolpath in mach3
4. Load the correct bit, set workpiece X/Y/Z zero
5. Press play
6. Watch chips fly
7. Crash
8. Swear
9. Repeat

With a little bit of hands on experience you will learn how to skip 7 and 8.


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[Mmpie]

Great point about the upgrade... I will look into that. However, my understanding is that the Cut2D can't do 3D carvings. I am looking forward to doing these as I learn (and make mistakes... lol.)

Ok, so when I open a toolpath file in Mach3, it creates the Gcode... which has ALL the settings from the Vcarve I created? If that is correct, great! Thanks again so much. I did try to use the search on this forum, but when it found threads of my search words, it showed me the thread, but some threads are so large, it was impossible to find what I search for page after page. So I thought I'd ask here. Appreciate your help and patience.

No. vectric creates the g-code, mach3 reads the g-code and tells the machine what to do.


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[DarbyOhara]

5. Press play
6. Watch chips fly
7. Crash
8. Swear
9. Repeat

With a little bit of hands on experience you will learn how to skip 7 and 8.


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ahahahah! that made me laugh. But I am sure it will be very true. I am an old 60 plus guy that works old-school...
1. acquire tool
2. unpack tool and complete setup
3. use tool. if error or problems, then open manual... lol.

No. vectric creates the g-code, mach3 reads the g-code and tells the machine what to do.


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aah! got it! makes sense. thanks for the clarification.

[DarbyOhara]

Gosh I hate to appear like I am hi-jacking this thread, but you guys seem pretty knowledgeable on this stuff. So please allow me to ask another elementary question.

I asked the vendor to clarify what router bits come with this package and I think you might know what kind of response I got... *crickets* I want to plan to purchase various carving bits, but I don't want to duplicate what is in the package and I am afraid I'll get the wrong size. Looking at the "packing list" of my purchase, it states this:

2X cutter 2*6mm
2X cutter 3*6mm
10X 4*7mm round head

Can anyone decipher that for me? I had first thought I would only get one bit... so I am not sure. And when I am looking at amazon or ebay, should I focus on 1/8" shaft, or 1/4" shaft? Or does it even matter? Is there a certain brand or vendor you might find more reliable than ebay or amazon? thanks again.

[Mmpie]

Gosh I hate to appear like I am hi-jacking this thread, but you guys seem pretty knowledgeable on this stuff. So please allow me to ask another elementary question.

I asked the vendor to clarify what router bits come with this package and I think you might know what kind of response I got... *crickets* I want to plan to purchase various carving bits, but I don't want to duplicate what is in the package and I am afraid I'll get the wrong size. Looking at the "packing list" of my purchase, it states this:

2X cutter 2*6mm
2X cutter 3*6mm
10X 4*7mm round head

Can anyone decipher that for me? I had first thought I would only get one bit... so I am not sure. And when I am looking at amazon or ebay, should I focus on 1/8" shaft, or 1/4" shaft? Or does it even matter? Is there a certain brand or vendor you might find more reliable than ebay or amazon? thanks again.

You've bought a different machine so I don't really know what it can utilise or what materials you're thinking of cutting. I would just get a load of cheap 6mm/.250 and 3mm/.125 HSS bits in 2 flute and 4 flute off eBay to start with and go from there. You will break some and dull the rest whilst you figure out what you're doing so don't worry too much about cutters to start with.


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[DarbyOhara]

You've bought a different machine so I don't really know what it can utilise or what materials you're thinking of cutting. I would just get a load of cheap 6mm/.250 and 3mm/.125 HSS bits in 2 flute and 4 flute off eBay to start with and go from there. You will break some and dull the rest whilst you figure out what you're doing so don't worry too much about cutters to start with.


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Oh no... I am not sure what all that means... I understand the .250/.125 is the shaft size.. but I'll have to research more what those flute sizes mean. Does HSS mean some kind of steel or carbide? After seeing a few youtube videos of carving simple 3D signs, they used a straight .125 (1/8") to rough cut. So I want to get a few of those. Then I want to get a fine 30%, and 60% that they done on the finish cut. That is what I was thinking to start but I'll research more.

Also, in my plans to setup the kit, I really didn't have a decent, strong table. I found these things called 2x4 basics workbench on walmart which one guy responded that he got them for his CNC router table. So I built mine using just 2x4's and these things. Worked out great. Very strong and easy. I try to upload a few pics so you can see and in case if others are looking for a cheap way to get a great router work bench.

[extent]

ya don't worry about what bits may come with your kit, they'll probably be crap anyway, just figure them as a bonus. In general you want to use the largest bit possible for the cutting, as the larger bits are stiffer. So if you can do all your sign cutting with a 1/4" bit then just get a few of those, if you need to do smaller details with a 1/8" then you use that size. HSS is steel, you probably don't have to worry about carbide for wood cutting.

[NickB00]

Thanks, I will check it out!

No worries.

The MDI interface is the second tab on Mach 3's standard screens. Down toward the bottom is a big text box where you can enter G codes directly. VERY handy for manually positioning the tool, restarting the spindle after a panic stop before you restart the job from a particular line, blah blah blah. I even use it in incremental mode (ie the coordinates you enter in the G codes are distances to travel rather than absolute positions) to do swim-lane style surfacing sometimes when I can't be bothered using the Mach3 wizard or using CAM to generate the tool paths.

[NickB00]

You would think that Omio machines would be running at 48 Volts then, being a better quality chinese unit?
How would you check this anyway? I agree if its running at 24V it may be skipping a bit.

IMHO, fix mechanical issues first, then look everywhere else....
Sometimes Chinese machines don't run the steppers at their optimum voltage.
At stepper can run at 48 V and yet they only use a 24V power supply.
The closer to max voltage you run, the more positive each' step' is and least chance of missing any.

[dharmic]

1. Open the case for the controller.
2. Read the "24V out" label on the power supply inside

The only time I've had skipping on my machine with the supplied 24V supply is when I've been an idiot in toolpath design. It's enough even for fairly aggressive work on aluminium if everything else is ok. Also bear in mind if you're going to push things that hard, the machine will flex more meaning cuts become less accurate, chatter gets worse, etc, etc, etc.

[NickB00]

If thats the case then, I know I am not pushing mine hard at all..

1. Open the case for the controller.
2. Read the "24V out" label on the power supply inside

The only time I've had skipping on my machine with the supplied 24V supply is when I've been an idiot in toolpath design. It's enough even for fairly aggressive work on aluminium if everything else is ok. Also bear in mind if you're going to push things that hard, the machine will flex more meaning cuts become less accurate, chatter gets worse, etc, etc, etc.

[NickB00]

So you replaced the power supply to fix the problem? I cannot believe the factory supplied one set on fire? You really must have been overloading it, or maybe the tight spots were really hard to push through,and so brute force has now saved the day. Go figure!

My PSU was at fault for a few unexpected gdhdkdksndhdjsk (I could swear just thinking about it)

I do have a few tight spots along the travels but the stock PSU just wouldn't deliver the power to move over them, until it eventually set on fire. Replaced with an 800w 48v supply and all problems magically disappeared. Well they didn't, the underlying issue is still there but doesn't cause any trouble now at all.

The few issues I do still have, which are very rare, are interference/ground loop or some other Harry Potter type wizardry which I don't really understand. They're few and far between and particularly since I've got this skyfire the OMIO is only doing very simple and basic stuff now so I've opted to just live with them.

Also the X axis ballscrew was seriously overtightened on mine from factory and loosening that off a bit made the whole thing a lot smoother. But the damage to the keeper bearing had been done, still not got around to swapping it yet.


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[dharmic]

Overloading will just pop the fuse. He got a crappy power supply - actually from dim memory there was a litany of sadness that came with that machine, must have been a Friday Afternoon Special

[Mmpie]

So you replaced the power supply to fix the problem? I cannot believe the factory supplied one set on fire? You really must have been overloading it, or maybe the tight spots were really hard to push through,and so brute force has now saved the day. Go figure!

Mine was just a duff piece of crap. It was 36v not 24v too. The tight spots weren't that tight they should have caused it any issue, I can turn the screw over them by hand but it does go from silky smooth to needing a bit of persuading in places. Some of my bearing carriages have ball bearings missing and one is quite sticky and doesn't rotate as freely as the others which doesn't help. Yes it set on fire.

Replacing it wasn't a magic fix for all my problems but it solved the getting stuck one with no further intervention required.


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[NickB00]

Yeah I recall reading that he got a lemon, or a Monday Morning got the Blues version! sad .

Overloading will just pop the fuse. He got a crappy power supply - actually from dim memory there was a litany of sadness that came with that machine, must have been a Friday Afternoon Special

[Mmpie]

Overloading will just pop the fuse. He got a crappy power supply - actually from dim memory there was a litany of sadness that came with that machine, must have been a Friday Afternoon Special

It certainly was, though on balance I got a really good spindle and set of ballscrews/nuts that actually repeat with great accuracy and negligible backlash (has to be measured on a metric hundredths indicator), so it's six of one and half a dozen of the other.

Most of my frustration was in the really poor assembly of everything but and afternoon stripping it all down and redrilling/retapping holes solved that


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[NickB00]

Mmpie I remember your old posts nearly put me off getting one, but you persevered and conquered! Most people would just given up considering all the issues you had with yours. Omios we got your money and now dont give a crap after sales service didnt help either!!

I too am wondering if my 2 sort of tight spots on the x axis (which have now loosened up a bit) are creating my back to job home error in the x-direction after a job completes. I noticed that my finishing pass runs on a slight angle and not square to the job which mucks things up a bit, is related to the homing error as well or tightness in the x shaft or bearings issue. Can you get replacement bearings and carraiges for these machines from Omio??

Mine was just a duff piece of crap. It was 36v not 24v too. The tight spots weren't that tight they should have caused it any issue, I can turn the screw over them by hand but it does go from silky smooth to needing a bit of persuading in places. Some of my bearing carriages have ball bearings missing and one is quite sticky and doesn't rotate as freely as the others which doesn't help. Yes it set on fire.

Replacing it wasn't a magic fix for all my problems but it solved the getting stuck one with no further intervention required.


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[Mmpie]

Your machine likely isn't square full stop. Mine was out quite a bit. X to Y was out by a mm or 2 over the X travel and the Z was higher on one side than the other because the holes for the gantry beam were lower on one side. It was too much for a redrill and retap so I shimmed one side of the gantry with folded aluminium foil to make it sit even.

Squaring the machine is easy just time consuming. You will need a precision square, 1-2-3 block or other instrument with flat ground surfaces and a good 90 degree angle, a test indicator, a hammer and an hour or so. The problem is when doing the bolts back up it will move so once you get it in place you need to keep going round tightening each bolt a little bit at a time whilst checking your angle as you go. I had to drill the holes out for the gantry side arms on that big bottom beam that runs under the bed to get enough movement. Don't go too crazy trying to get it perfect as it will move anyway, but not by a massive amount.

If you ever need spare bearing carriages or whatever probably quicker, cheaper and easier to just get them off eBay or aliexpress.


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[dharmic]

The machine being out of square and flexy was why I ended up getting that tooling bed machined up on a big bridgeport, so I had a reference to squish the frame to. Even then I used a coke can's worth of shimming to get it level.

[Sterob]

Even then I used a coke can's worth of shimming to get it level.

You were lucky......

I had to shim my Gantry up ~2.6mm so it stopped deflecting the ballscrew.

Here's a before pick:
Attachment 401610

A vid of a test run afterl lots of rooting around......lol

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iurv76psuc...mming.mp4?dl=0