Hi Tormach folk.
A short video on Slideway Covers.
Keen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLyV2TLO2VI
Hi Tormach folk.
A short video on Slideway Covers.
Keen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLyV2TLO2VI
Please post photos or videos on this thread on any Slideway Cover ideas you have or are using.
Keen
First off I want to thank you! In the process I tried to oil the z slide and in the process found the supply line disconnected, repaired that and took a not so good pic or two of what I use on the Y axis, it just consists of a couple of rags placed over the bellows and those can be removed and the chips shaken off then replaced.
I ordered some 12" x .0625 wide neoprene sheet and I plan to make a more permanent type cover similar to the Tormach type only the bottom I plan to attach differently so that it doesnt "wad" up at the bottom.
I use the rags and that works fine for me as I keep all the chips on the table with a spindle shield and a backsplash and an apron off the head, works except for face milling. I use the towel on the front of the Y over the chip shield to wipe the hands and to keep the vise handle from hitting the sheetmetal.
Kind of tacky but it works.....
The backsplash is .0625 rubber gasket material of unknown origin, I slotted a piece of .5 pvc, inserted the rubber and super glued it in. The reason is if the head is lowered down to a point that it hits the shield it will give and not destroy something.
I only machine parts held in the vise so this "backsplash" works fine for me.
mike sr
Attachment 289600
Here's a Z-axis guard idea I've been playing with. Basically gravity driven slides. Delrin sides with T-slots to align everything. Problem is in front panels need to be very straight/flat (ground?) so they stay together without gaps since there are no wipers. With the larger / outside one on the top there should be no real reason for chips to try to go up between them but....
I've got a similar idea (alignment is different so chips can't lay in the T slot lips) for the Y axis but since there is hardly any room I'm trying to get it to travel up the Z somewhat to help the shutter sizes.
So far just ideas that work on the computer, hopefully I can spend some time making one up
M
Thanks Mike.
I have been using a cloth just like you for years also - it really speeds up cleaning. I thought I would leave that out of the video as it confuses my point - there really isn't room at full Y travel even for a cloth in those accordion covers.
Cheers Keen
Hi M.
My thoughts are the Z isn't a problem as you can hose it down and gravity keeps it fairly clear. Also you have plenty of room for a simple sheet metal cover, max length down from the top, and one or two long sheet metal overlays running down with slots/screws at each side.
I think it is the Y behind the table that needs a proper fix - can you post some CAD of your idea when it is ready please?
cheers keen
Hi Mike - What holds your Vice down?
Keen
Magic!!
Its held down with two 1/2 x 13 screws thru the bed of the vise, they have small plastic covers over the heads, makes for a clean install and I could use standard T nuts, the hardware that came with the vise was 3/4", so was unusable on my machine as the tee slots are only 5/8".
I am going to try a piece of neoprene rubber with a length of .375 round shafting drilled and tapped to affix to each end of the rubber as it tends not to flatten back out.
The chips on the cloth was from playing with the face mill, other than that the backsplash get them all.
The oak strips in the T slots make for easier cleanup.
mike sr
Very interesting stuff Mike
- Did your Kurt come drilled like that or did you drill it?
- If so was the casting surface hard?
Keep us posted with the neoprene cover - I am not 100% sure of what you means so I look forward to a picture!
Cheers. keen
Yes the vise was predrilled for those screws.
the vise is a Shars version, the label wasnt affixed too well.......
I do like it though, about the biggest one I could get that would fit the table.
I will take pics of the cover, a sheet just lays there fine but when the Y is moved to the column and back it doesnt flatten out very well, I figured I would try a piece of round on each end and let it sit in the folds of the bellows and when its moved it would be enough to drag it back into position, we will see, a little "seat of the pants" engineering ha!
mike sr
Mike - Sorry to pester you. One more question. What is that set up clamped in the far corner of the table?
Keen
I machine 2 .125 slots by .125 deep near the end of a part, they are too long for the vise so I use that fixture/clamp to hold the end of the long part while cutting those slots and drilling/tapping 4 6-32 holes. I have a fixture for the other side to cut the contours, that is also held in the vise.
This could be done clamped to the table, but I have a phobia of machining too close to the table (pullout Mach 3 etc),Ha! I dont like rust or corrosion either but my water-less coolant takes care of that.
I have never worked as a machinist, just did it as a mechanic and for fixtures and dies for my stainless welding business, so there are a lot of things that I do that are a bit unorthodox ha!!
A pic of the clamp and one style of the part I make with it.
mike sr
Why not simply install a dedicated wash down nozzle that continuously blows swarf off the y bellows while the coolant is on? The pump that comes with the 1100 stand probably doesn't have the balls to do it but it sounds like most people are upgrading anyways.
Hi - Well I have been mulling exactly that. I have a big capacity coolant pump too. But I machine steel quite often and I fear it would be hard to wash down the whole width evenly enough to remove all of the heavy sharp catchy swarf. I have done some testing and it would certainly help - but probably not be 100%.
Cheers. Keen
This is what I came up with to cover the y-axis bellows. They are made from stainless steel that I had laser cut. They are installed over top of the bellows using the same mounting holes as the bellows. They seem to be holding up pretty good.
Adam
https://youtu.be/uepRUl-X7xw
Thanks for your post Adam!
They look great! How thick is the sheet steel, and does swarf ride up under the leading edges sometimes? If so is it hard to clean?
Do you machine steel? Would you mind if we copy this design? and if not are there any improvements you would suggest.
Many thanks. Keen
I didnt see this one,
I machine aluminum almost exclusive, the oak strips fit rather snug, no problems with chips wedging in between them. I use oil for coolant so I dont have a swelling problem with them either, I also use a screen in the end channels so that the table is level, makes for easy cleanup. coolant is all collected and piped back to the sump screen, I did this to keep evaporation to a minimum with water based coolant, worked very well.
UHMW strips would be good for water based coolant, the material is cheap as well.
1 x .625 aluminum bar would work too, just cut to length and drop them in place.
They also sell aluminum "T" sections made for this purpose.
I made the aluminum strips for the neoprene material, didnt work very well. I am thinking magnets and make the vertical and horizontal cover one piece possibly??
I am not too thrilled with the neoprene material, the cloth worked much better, Maybe a cut down towel to improve the aesthetics ha!!
mike sr
Thanks. I don't recall how thick the sheet is. Maybe 0.030"?? Sometimes chips will get up under the one piece closest to the table as it has a bit of a bow in it. It's really easy to clean, most of the chips just fall off either side if it gets too full, otherwise a very quick wipe is all it takes. I do machine steel, aluminum, plastic and composite materials. You are more than welcome to copy the design if you want (they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery). I can't think of any improvements right now, but if you do make something similar, I'd love to see it.
Adam