[Rc3Dpilot]

I think this was the thread looking for Gary's Clocks. I know I have been. I found all but the 2003 dxf file. Which is the one I really would of liked to have.
Gary's Clocks via web archive

[steve323]

I am planning to just use drill rod with birch plywood. I will be happy if my first design lasts 5 years. All of the wheels rotate around fixed shafts, so I expect that the holes might enlarge slightly but will remain round. The pendulum and the pallet are the only parts that do not rotate. The pendulum will have a knife edge. I might use ball bearings for the pallet to keep it from drifting as the hole wears out.

Plan B is to use bearing surfaces from Argentine Lignum Vitae. It is similar to true Lignum Vitae. Maybe not as good, but it appears to not be a hightly endangered species. Rockler.com has small turning blanks (1.5"x1.5"x12") for $6. That should be enough to make a lot of bearings.

Steve

[blackbeard52]

I found all but the 2003 dxf file

Ask and ye shall recieve

Bob

[Rc3Dpilot]

Ask and ye shall recieve

Bob

Thank you very much! That jump starts the project. Now just more reading before I start to cnc parts.

[phidauex]

JGRO,
I am using 1/2 Birch Ply. I'm not particularly impressed with this wood, but it's ok. The plans call for 10mm (aka 3/8", but I couldn't find any of that). The frame is a clear ???? from Home Depot. I forgot it's name.

Did you get Birch ply from Home Depot? If so, then it isn't REAL Birch plywood, most of what you get in home stores is pine or fir, faced with birch. What you really want is called "Baltic Birch" plywood.

To tell, count the number of plies, 1/2" should be 9 plies, and 3/8" should be 7 plies. You can only get it a real woodworking/millwork shops. Rockler woodworking carries it if you have one around, and you can usually find a real millwork/cabinetry shop around that carries it. It will be a bit pricey, but it is very nice to work with, and finishes very well, unlike the birch faced plywood you get at most "home improvement" style lumber yards. Call around, and you'll find it.

Picture: http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/p_477_3_3.gif

If you are already using Baltic birch, then my apologies for the long winded explanation! BTW, nice hybrid! I'm putting mine together right now.

-Sam

[Glidergider]

Sam,
Thanks for the info on birch ply. Looks like I have the real mccoy.

Congratulations on your decision to build a Hybrid. I'm loving mine. It's an awesome machine.

I really need to get back to my clock build. It's been sitting far to long. The Christmas holidays really distracted me.

Part of my problem is reducing the amount of drag in the system.
Dave

[phidauex]

Sam,
Thanks for the info on birch ply. Looks like I have the real mccoy.

Congratulations on your decision to build a Hybrid. I'm loving mine. It's an awesome machine.

I really need to get back to my clock build. It's been sitting far to long. The Christmas holidays really distracted me.

Part of my problem is reducing the amount of drag in the system.
Dave

Ok, good! Just thought I'd check since I've been tricked by that distinction in the past.

-Sam

[CNC-Johannes]

Hi,

please let me know what kind of wood is the best for building wooden clocks.
First time i try it with cedar but i think its better to take a very hard wood ?

I have an great cnc router from cnc-step.com since last year and i have made much things with it ( but in marble and other stones, not in wood ).

Now i found much interesting informations about carving and machining in wood and i will try out the machining from pieces for wood clocks first.
I saw amazing results in internet.

Please, if there is someone who give me informations about the best wood and about the best usable andmills, i am very thankful.

greetings
Johannes

[TonyWood]

Hi,

I made mine out of Beech, it is close grained, stable and takes machining very well...it is also relativley cheap and easily obtainable (in the UK at least)

Tony

[thkoutsidthebox]

Hi,

please let me know what kind of wood is the best for building wooden clocks.
First time i try it with cedar but i think its better to take a very hard wood ?

I have an great cnc router from cnc-step.com since last year and i have made much things with it ( but in marble and other stones, not in wood ).

Now i found much interesting informations about carving and machining in wood and i will try out the machining from pieces for wood clocks first.
I saw amazing results in internet.

Please, if there is someone who give me informations about the best wood and about the best usable andmills, i am very thankful.

greetings
Johannes

mmm...I haven't made one yet, but from reading up on them types of plywood are best if you want accuracy. solid hardwood is arguably best for nice looks, but its at the expense of accurate timekeeping as the wood expands & contracts.

[becikeja]

Has anyone out there actually built the "Garys Clock 2003" from the download in this thread? The reason I ask is that I am currently trying to build it. I am struggling with the escapement. The dimensions after I cut it out just don't look right. Are there some adjustments that need to be made? If you have a picture of the connection between the Escape Wheel and the tick toc lever I should appreciate it if you could post it. Thanks, your help is most appreciated.

[eng1_romy]

Ask and ye shall recieve

Bob

good help man thank you for model

[David Morrow]

Has anyone out there actually built the "Garys Clock 2003" from the download in this thread? The reason I ask is that I am currently trying to build it. I am struggling with the escapement. The dimensions after I cut it out just don't look right. Are there some adjustments that need to be made? If you have a picture of the connection between the Escape Wheel and the tick toc lever I should appreciate it if you could post it. Thanks, your help is most appreciated.

A local fellow I met had troubles with the escapement as well. He spent an awful lot of time trying to understand the clock arithmetic and determined that the diameter of the escapement wheel is correct but that it should have 20 teeth, not 18. He then made a new wheel with 20 teeth and the clock ran just fine. I talked to him about this a month or so ago and he said that he was still working on the solution to determine that he was in fact correct and trying to prove arithmetically why that solution worked. I haven't heard back since that conversation.

[blackbeard52]

good help man thank you for model

You are certainly welcome

Bob

[mcyr]

Has anyone out there actually built the "Garys Clock 2003" from the download in this thread? The reason I ask is that I am currently trying to build it. I am struggling with the escapement. The dimensions after I cut it out just don't look right. Are there some adjustments that need to be made? If you have a picture of the connection between the Escape Wheel and the tick toc lever I should appreciate it if you could post it. Thanks, your help is most appreciated.

I'm about finished with mine. Can you be more specific about what your problem might be? Perhaps you can post a picture of what you think is odd looking? If you used the dxf files to cut your parts it should go together and work just fine.

[becikeja]

Here is a picture of what I am facing. Ignore the quality of the wood, I have started the project by making the cuts in scrap plywood, just so I could see how it all fits together. The gears seem to line up fine. The only issue I am having (and granted I have not attached the pendulum yet) is with the spacing between the escape wheel and the lever. It just seems to be too large a gap and I am not real sure how these two pieces should connect.

[David Morrow]

Here is a picture of what I am facing. Ignore the quality of the wood, I have started the project by making the cuts in scrap plywood, just so I could see how it all fits together. The gears seem to line up fine. The only issue I am having (and granted I have not attached the pendulum yet) is with the spacing between the escape wheel and the lever. It just seems to be too large a gap and I am not real sure how these two pieces should connect.

It's a bit hard to tell looking at your picture, but comparing it to the pdf General Assembly page from Gary, you have the tick-tock lever facing the wrong side up.

I think I got the hole spacing from the Cadd drawing. If you don't have it or can't get the dimensions from it, let me know and I'll get them for you.

[becikeja]

I have the spacing from the documents that I found in the thread, but thanks for the offer. Would you mind posting a picture of your escapement. Maybe when I see the spacing and the configuration something will click in my head, and I'll be able to figure it out.

[mcyr]

Here is a picture of what I am facing. Ignore the quality of the wood, I have started the project by making the cuts in scrap plywood, just so I could see how it all fits together. The gears seem to line up fine. The only issue I am having (and granted I have not attached the pendulum yet) is with the spacing between the escape wheel and the lever. It just seems to be too large a gap and I am not real sure how these two pieces should connect.

Whoa! I see your problem now. It looks like either your escape gear or the pallet were cut on different scales. The distance between the "teeth" of the pallets should be such that it doesn't quite span the diameter of the escape wheel. I've attached a picture of mine which I hope you find useful. Sorry about its quality.

Best regards,
Mike

[becikeja]

Thanks for the pic, that is more like what I was expecting to see. I can't see the far side, but based on the orientation I am thinking the tic toc lever only clears the escape wheel by about a 1/8 inch or so? I used the same scale when I cut the parts, so I am not sure what happened. I will tweak it a bit and see if I can't get it to line up. Again thanks for the pic