[Gearr]

I just finished building my DIY router and got the electronics hooked up and working through PP & Mach3. I wanted to add limit, homing, and estop switches to my BOB (stv2) but I'm having some issues with the wiring.

Attachment 297390

To setup my estop, I ran a wire from GND & P10 to a switch and tried the "signal diagnostics" in Mach3 but got nothing... I also tried PSU to GND (on BOB) and to P10 and still nothing. I read somewhere that you need to run the "optional" 12-24V (on right side in pic) to this specific BOB to get everything working but I'm not sure and don't want to burn it up (already running 5V from USB). Is it true that both red LEDs have to be on for this to work properly as I only have one. Lastly, if the 12-24V is needed, can I just run an extra wire from the PSU or do I need a different power supply (somewhat worried about amps being too high).
Thanks for your help!

FYI,
BOB: stv2
Drivers: M542 drivers
PSU: 350W 36V 9.7A

[Gearr]

I just finished building my DIY router and got the electronics hooked up and working through PP & Mach3. I wanted to add limit, homing, and estop switches to my BOB (stv2) but I'm having some issues with the wiring.

Attachment 297390

To setup my estop, I ran a wire from GND & P10 to a switch and tried the "signal diagnostics" in Mach3 but got nothing... I also tried PSU to GND (on BOB) and to P10 and still nothing. I read somewhere that you need to run the "optional" 12-24V (on right side in pic) to this specific BOB to get everything working but I'm not sure and don't want to burn it up (already running 5V from USB). Is it true that both red LEDs have to be on for this to work properly as I only have one. Lastly, if the 12-24V is needed, can I just run an extra wire from the PSU or do I need a different power supply (somewhat worried about amps being too high).
Thanks for your help!

FYI,
BOB: stv2
Drivers: M542 drivers
PSU: 350W 36V 9.7A

I thought I'd let you know that I went ahead and ran power to the "optional" 12-24V inputs on the BOB (coming of my PSU so it's closer to 36V I guess), which illuminated an LED in the bottom left of the board, and also solved my Limit/Estop issue. I still have to finish up wiring everything but at least it's working now. I am measuring ~9.4V on the input side (should be 5V?) so I hope I don't fry anything but it's working for now.

[Toinvd]

Hello Gear,
Take care with the rather high input voltage that you use. The black block with three pins next to the blue relays looks to me as a voltage regulator. These things don't like more than 37 volts, and it might get to hot when the input voltage is high. Do connect something between 12 and 24 volt so you wont overload the cirquit. The 5 black blocks next to the connectors for the limmit switches look like opto couplers. These protect your computer from bad ( high voltage ) input from the limmit switch connectors. On the input side ( the limmit switches ) the opto couplers need some power which doesn't come from the 5V USB, but from the regulator. That's why it's only working when the external 12/24 volt is connected.
Good luck with your router, Toin.

[Gearr]

Hello Gear,
Take care with the rather high input voltage that you use. The black block with three pins next to the blue relays looks to me as a voltage regulator. These things don't like more than 37 volts, and it might get to hot when the input voltage is high. Do connect something between 12 and 24 volt so you wont overload the cirquit. The 5 black blocks next to the connectors for the limmit switches look like opto couplers. These protect your computer from bad ( high voltage ) input from the limmit switch connectors. On the input side ( the limmit switches ) the opto couplers need some power which doesn't come from the 5V USB, but from the regulator. That's why it's only working when the external 12/24 volt is connected.
Good luck with your router, Toin.

Thanks for the advice... I guess I'll have to dust off that old psu. Speaking off... which wire to jump to run when there is no green wire?

[Toinvd]

Did I miss something ? I can't find anything about run or a green wire. Is this something in the program then it's clear that I don't know, because I'm not using Mach3
Pls be more precise an'd I'll try to help you.

[Gearr]

Did I miss something ? I can't find anything about run or a green wire. Is this something in the program then it's clear that I don't know, because I'm not using Mach3
Pls be more precise an'd I'll try to help you.

Sorry, that was a rhetorical question... my failed attempt at trying to be funny... To get an atx psu running, you jump green signal wire to ground. When you don't have a green wire, it's the gray one.
I do have a new problem though... I just installed a slave motor on my y-axis and it is only running in one direction (y++)... I'll have to double check the wiring connections, but could it be anything else?
Thanks

[Toinvd]

Ok, you got me on the PSU. Back to the router. Are you using a separate ( seccond ) driver for the slave motor ?
If so, then verify if the signal for direction arrives at that driver. So far for me, that was the most common reason for a direction problem.

[Gearr]

Ok, you got me on the PSU. Back to the router. Are you using a separate ( seccond ) driver for the slave motor ?
If so, then verify if the signal for direction arrives at that driver. So far for me, that was the most common reason for a direction problem.

Yes, I am using 2 motors/drivers for the y axis... as expected, it was a simple connection issue. Everything is working great now. Thanks for your help!

[indexlimit]

hi
is your signal set up in ports and pins if not you will not get an indication on the diagnostics screen.
at a guess set input 1 to pin 10 port 1 then try connecting between gnd and p10. if you can see that in diag then you can change it to estop.
you do not want to run any power directly to the switch terminals as from what i saw in your pic the input pins are already high and by connecting them to the gnd you are pulling them low and activating the signal. good luck

[Gearr]

hi
is your signal set up in ports and pins if not you will not get an indication on the diagnostics screen.
at a guess set input 1 to pin 10 port 1 then try connecting between gnd and p10. if you can see that in diag then you can change it to estop.
you do not want to run any power directly to the switch terminals as from what i saw in your pic the input pins are already high and by connecting them to the gnd you are pulling them low and activating the signal. good luck

I got it all working by supplying 12v to the optional Bob connector. I was originally under a mistaken impression that the 5v usb was supplying voltage to the switches (which it does not). Thanks for your suggestion.

[Gearr]

First "field" test of the Estop was successful when the y axis was attempting to destroy itself while homing only 1 motor on a dual motor configuration... holy crap! Need to make that change in Mach3.