[MichaelHenry]

This is the way my new 15 Lathe looks right now in prep for moving it from our garage to my basement shop. Just waiting for riggers to call me back for a final estimate on moving these two items. Everything else was easy to move myself.

Attachment 301542

If anyone is interested I got weights of the major components as the lathe was disassembled. The bed is 275 lbs and the base is 460 lbs. If anyone needs pictures of anything that is not normally visible, now is the time to ask.

[mountaindew]

Wow!
Lots of work just to get in position and set up.
Guess you get some added knowledge of complete construction having to do this.
Good luck with move, looking forward to some posts about the machine.

[tmarks11]

If anyone is interested I got weights of the major components as the lathe was disassembled. The bed is 275 lbs and the base is 460 lbs.

Interesting. I would have thought significantly more weight would have been on the bed.How much does the headstock weigh?

[MichaelHenry]

Wow!
Lots of work just to get in position and set up.
Guess you get some added knowledge of complete construction having to do this.
Good luck with move, looking forward to some posts about the machine.

I did the same thing with my 1100, but my wife and I were able to move that ourselves but that was 7 years ago and my back and knees were in better shape back then. I might be able to handle the bed with a friend, but the base is definitely beyond me so riggers it is, We are near Chicago and I am not about to work in the garage in the summer *or* winter. I figure the 15L is about as big as can be gotten down the basement steps.

[LeeWay]

One thing is for certain, your's will get some QC done to it.
Congrats on the new machine.
I was impressed myself by the heft of the base. It's really made more out of plate steel than sheet metal.

Your bed would probably weigh 20 pounds less without the lifting eyes. I would imagine that the other parts were not light weights either.

I think one of the reasons the bed seem light is because the spindle mounts on the base and not the bed. Misspoke there. It does mount on the bed, but the base is what adds the significant weight.

[MichaelHenry]

Yes, I thought that bed would be about 100 lbs more but that was just a guess. I recall some FEA analysis screen shots that Tormach used as eye candy during the lathe development so they probably have it designed to a good target so far as rigidty goes. I'm pretty impressed with what I've seen so far. For example, I like the radiused inside corners on the bed casting, which should make cleanup and wipe down easier. Debris and swarf frequently get stuck in the corners of my base stand. I've yet to install the 5C collet closer, turret, and full enclosure and hope that those are all as well engineered.

[LeeWay]

I only found a few things with the design that I had to change. Those were all with the smaller enclosure so you will not see those same issues. Those issues came about too because I set my tools up with the QCTP up top in the turret spot. It was all only minor work to get the clearance I needed.
I have seen a few videos of the guys with the full ride and they were impressed with the enclosure.

[MichaelHenry]

Thanks - all good to know.

The riggers were here today to check out the job, will give me an estimate this week some time and plan to do the move next weekend. Then it will be another week or so for me to put everything back together before the real fun begins.

[LeeWay]

Setting mine up completely took a little longer than I had planned, but it was well worth it to get it running production to start with. It allowed ample play time to set the tools exactly like I wanted too. Lots of trial and error there. All of that was actually pretty fun and enjoyable.
Good luck with it and above all, have fun.

[MichaelHenry]

I had it running in the garage long enough to make a few inspections checks. If there was a major issue, I wanted it shipped back to Tormach from the garage rather than the basement. It was only run with a gang-tool mounted insert tool but I was pretty danged happy with the way it ran. Can't wait to play with the turret and might already have some work lined up for it.

[LeeWay]

It's nice to see them go right to work when they get setup.

[victorofga]

just out of couriosity... have you thinking to pulling up onto a trailer?

the fence puller winch plenty for this


a sheet of plywood, you can screw off on the trailer edge.. and pull up the whole thing...
or a sheet of advantec flooring.. that also cost approx. 25...

on the place you can nail together something over the base, and same winch you can lift up the heavier parts..

[MichaelHenry]

just out of couriosity... have you thinking to pulling up onto a trailer?

I suppose that I could put the bed and base on a trailer, but how would I get the trailer down into my basement?

The riggers have a plan involving a ramp down the stairs and a winch. They should be giving me a call this week with an estimate and if that works out should be able to do the job this weekend.

[victorofga]

I don't know your situation...
I just was thinking lifting that heavy stuff is not viable option..

lowering down on a stairway... not simple and I don't want to encourage you.. I don't want to take you get hurt..

I always worked only by myself and made trough tasks, wasn't looking viable for one person..
if it were mine, possible I would use same plywood rip half, and the two would make the way ...

NOT THE TRAILER... before you misread :-)

while it is heavy... holding on a ramp the 450 pound is about 200 ... due its on a ramp, not hanging down..

but again, I don't want to encourage you.. more people, more safe..

edit
================================================== ==
the bottom line is, if they move it for 100 then don't hesitate.. order it.. if they ask 300-400 then it worth to thinking on..

you put across on the door a 4x4 then you can tie a winch on and lower just by yourself.. for 300 dollar you have to work... don't comes free...

[tmarks11]

so were there any surprises in the pieces you took a part? Any maintenance needs that a new buyer might want to double check when he gets his machine?

Sort of the like the cross table oiler fittings that someone else pointed out recently?

[LeeWay]

We have been having some unusually high humid weather recently. My machines started rusting lightly pretty rapidly last week. They required immediate attention. I removed all the rust from the machines. WD40 works with some very fine sand paper or a green Scotch brite pad. Never use steel wool. It will compound the rust issue with small fragments. I bought some better stuff that is used on guns and other things to try out. I used to use Boesfeld T9, but it leaves a white waxy film on everything and not an even coat.
I have a little side project and that is making a small injection molding machine. I have become aware of some products they use in that industry. One name brand is Slide products. They have some that is used on steel molds for use and storage to prevent rust.
I will be picking up some of that I think depending on how this other stuff I ordered works. Slide products are worth looking into I think. They have mold releases, cleaners, degreasers, lubricant and rust preventatives among other things.
This has just been a public service announcement.

[MichaelHenry]

so were there any surprises in the pieces you took a part? Any maintenance needs that a new buyer might want to double check when he gets his machine?

Sort of the like the cross table oiler fittings that someone else pointed out recently?

Not really. Some of the taper pins used to align components were pretty easy to remove but they all seemed to have bottomed out so I don't think that was a problem. There was a little paint on the bed mounting pads, probably just what seeped into the crevice between the pad and the bed but I'll be scraping that off on re-assembly. I saw the same thing between the ways and headstock mounting pads. All of my lube fittings seemed to be lined up correctly and to be distributing oil as designed. All of the tapped holes seemed to be good. The main problem I had was in removing the stepper and limit switch wires. Arthritis makes it uncomfortable for me to work on my knees for long and I'd be happier with a little more open and higher control cabinet, but all in all disassembly wasn't difficult. The trickiest part was removing the carriage saddle and cross-slide. I elected to remove the cross slide as one piece which was a bit tricky but not bad if you take some time and think your way through it.

I was really pretty impressed at how well the whole thing was designed and fabricated. It's going to be quite a change from my manual Clausing lathe.

[adamvs]

While it's apart, it might be worth replacing the X-axis limit switch with a good Honeywell roller switch. Tormach uses the same switch all over the place, but the lathe X-axis is especially sensitive because any variance in X homing needs to be multiplied by 2, it's a diameter value. True, this all taken care of by getting a new X workoffset, but it would be nice to get values that didn't jump around so much.

[MichaelHenry]

While it's apart, it might be worth replacing the X-axis limit switch with a good Honeywell roller switch. Tormach uses the same switch all over the place, but the lathe X-axis is especially sensitive because any variance in X homing needs to be multiplied by 2, it's a diameter value. True, this all taken care of by getting a new X workoffset, but it would be nice to get values that didn't jump around so much.

That's not a bad idea, though the lathe is nearly all back together now. I happen to have a couple of Omron limit switches that are about the same form factor. Do you know if those are comparable to Honeywell in quality and performance?

[adamvs]

There have been complaints about X axis homing, me included. When I checked the switch the roller was *very* wobbly and the plunger kind of sticky ( and this was after a bit of gun lube ) . so no wonder from one reset to another the X axis homes sometimes with a .010 variance.

OK, I'm not a switch guru, but I some internet research got to some Honeywell sealed roller switch for not much ( ~$35. ). This just has to be better! How's the action on your Omron switch? Is it sealed? That might be a plus.

Very cool what your doing .. disassemble to get it installed, should inspire some other people, who also have a space challenge. The only thing I'd worry about is getting the headstock back into true, tho I assume it's pinned. When you get it running, it you have a larger ( 3-4" ) piece of aluminum tube ( or bar ), take a light cut and check for taper.