[Azalin]

Yes, it's a pain doing a thing like this in a small lathe. Mine proved itself though.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[Azalin]

The back seal is ready. Used 6065 aluminum.

[iwaskevin]

Nice Job!!!!

[Dingenman]

Well done Suat! Are you going to run a test on the spindle or breaking it in?
PS. I managed to open the 2016-files with Fusion 360, thanks!
Ard

[Azalin]

Hi again,

I just finished the pulley. There is still some minor things to do.

1- Grind a way for a 5x5mm key on the splindle. I can do this job on my CNC but I don't have the tools to open the way inside the pulley. I need to figure how to do this.
3- I' need to tap 2 holes on the pulley shank for setscrews.
2- There are 1mm meterial on the OD of the housing. Need to cut it off.

[G59]

You can make the keyway in the pulley, on your lathe. I learned this 25 yrs ago and never got stumped making keyways in pulleys ever since.

Here is an example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcU0LTavzDM

Now you know.

[RustedOut]

That keyway cutting is how I did an internally splined hub for my mill. I thought it would take days, but I had it all finished in just over an hour. It was a 6 spline hub with 6mm wide splines. Indexed it from my 6 jaw chuck. Easy deal, just took .001" deep cuts.

Bob

[handlewanker]

Hi...yeah indexing from the chuck "can" work in a limited way...... but if you have an oldish lathe with the back gear system, the old hands used a detent pin in the bull gear..... the big gear on the spindle behind the chuck...... to give almost precise indexing.....providing the number of teeth on the gear is a divisible one and not an odd number......you can even cut gears with this method too.

Some people have fixed a disc, with holes round the periphery, into the end of the headstock spindle with an expanding type mandrel and this can be very accurate for precise slotting and gear cutting etc.
Ian.

[Azalin]

Hi,

What is the easiest way to open a keyway on the hardened spindle shaft? The dimension of the key is 5x5x15mm and it has a 2.5mm radius on the ends.

Thanks in advance.

[Dingenman]

Couldn't you just take a small 3 or 4mm VHM cutter and use an adaptive toolpath on your cnc?

[G59]

What is the easiest way to open a keyway on the hardened spindle shaft?

How hard was it treated to?

Depending on HRC, endmill easiest, grinding last resort.

[Azalin]

How hard was it treated to?


Depending on HRC, endmill easiest, grinding last resort.

Hi,


Hardness of the shaft is 59 HRC. What kind of end mill will do the job best?

[G59]

Good carbide cutters, no problem. Cut dry(no coolant) and go easy with 4mm. It'll take time either way. Normaly keyway is cut before hardening.

[ebrewste]

"Hard milling" is the term you want to search for. Lots of info out there.

[Azalin]

OK I'll give it a try. Thanks.

[Azalin]

By the way, why 4mm cutter and not 5mm? The key is 5mm. Just asking.

[mactec54]

By the way, why 4mm cutter and not 5mm? The key is 5mm. Just asking.

Your key is 5mm the 5mm cutter won't let you have any cleanup and may cut it oversize, use carbide 4 flute coated

[handlewanker]

Hi.....in a case like that I think you will find the normal short series 4mm end mill will have too much flex and make the key walls a vertical taper....before it snaps off.

To overcome this you "could' try grinding a 4mm cutter down to practically a stub mill length....this will reduce the aspect ratio and make for less flexing.

You'll be cutting at full depth and digging into the side walls as opposed to hacking away at the top and working down, so very small cuts and lots of them will probably work....BTDT.

When the job is finished and if it is a bit daggy, you could use a die grinder and a diamond coated burr to clean up the walls......takes patience, but you're doing it the wrong way anyway and this is a reclamation job.

BTW.....the shaft only has a hard case on it with a softer core.......common practice for wearability and strength, so once the top skin is penetrated the bottom will be soft........that is unless the entire keyway has a hard skin.

You could also (highly recommended as a first choice) make the key a stepped type with the top width for the pulley and the bottom width for the shaft.

The key is purely designed to resist shear forces when transmitting the rotatory motion, steel shears at 26 tons per square inch.....do the sums.... so unless you are going to drive something with huge torque...(with an aluminium pulley???)...... a stepped key is the simplest solution.

Last solution......cut another keyway, same as the shaft width, in the pulley bore on the other side.
Ian.

[Azalin]

Thanks for your help Ian.

[Azalin]

OK I'll try to cut the keyway with a 4mm short type (2 flutes will be good I think) end mill. Good thing I have a milling machine vice to clamp the shaft.