[Bearhawk LSA]

Hello All,

About a year ago I purchased a previously CNC modified G0704, but was too busy with work to take the time to get it going. Now with a recent layoff, I have decided to take a month off to take care of things and one is getting this machine running. When I received it it had a very simple lower frame with an upper enclosure. It has the Nordic track belt mod and a few others. I decided to make a new lower frame to better match the size of the upper enclosure. The lower frame is compartmentalized with 3 areas. In the center is the coolant tank and pump. On the sides, I have one area for computer and electronics and another for tooling and such. I plan to add sheet metal dividers, panels and doors eventually but i am not there yet. All parts were designed in Solidworks and I was able to print a flat pattern for the drip tray which helped a lot. I had a friend weld the frame and drip tray for me.

Attachment 309288 Attachment 309290


Today I worked on installing the coolant drip pan and coolant tank and chip weir. Here is the coolant drip pan after installation.
Attachment 309292

For the Chip weir, I am using a 4" diameter piece of ABS tubing with a drain in the bottom with mesh. Also the sides are drilled to allow the coolant to drain should the lower drain be backed up with chip accumulation. The weir has a flange that allows it to sit on the coolant tank. When I need to dump it, all I need to do is just pull it out and dump the chips. The bottom of the drain sits 4" off the bottom of the coolant tank.

Attachment 309294 Attachment 309296 Attachment 309298

Marc

[tpks]

Very nice pan set up.

[charliex]

very clean looking. can't wait to see it installed.

[toddbeau]

I did my pan like that as well, it has worked very well. I used a single stage epoxy paint on it and the coolant removed it, it was very time consuming mistake. You may want to have it epoxy powder coated, the parts I have done that to show no signs of deterioration.

[Bearhawk LSA]

I did my pan like that as well, it has worked very well. I used a single stage epoxy paint on it and the coolant removed it, it was very time consuming mistake. You may want to have it epoxy powder coated, the parts I have done that to show no signs of deterioration.

Hello Todd,

Thanks for the heads up. I used a rubberized underbody coating to seal any gaps in the seam of the pan. I was planning to use a plastic spray on bedliner, but they were out when I went to the store and went with the rubberized coating. My guess is over time it will also be eaten by coolant as well. I was unaware it was nasty enough to eat an epoxy paint so my guess is it will attack the rubberized coating as well. I would remove it, but its on there good now. I may need to wait until to see if it attacks it or not as I am unsure how I would get it off now.

Marc

[Kenny Duval]

You will be stopping to empty that more than you think.

[Bearhawk LSA]

You will be stopping to empty that more than you think.

Hello Kenny,

Yes I am sure your right. I had wanted to go another route on the chip weir, but I already had the tank and figured I would use what I have and if after I found it was not suitable, I could then buy a better tank that will give me more surface area to collect chips. I suppose I could always cut off the top of the tank and make a rectangular basket. My parts are small so I will give what I have a try first and see how it goes.

Marc

[Bearhawk LSA]

I had a bit of time today to work on the machine. For the coolant tank I wanted to avoid using an immersion type pump in the tank. I found an external pump designed to move hot liquids, but the problem was that it was designed for an inline application with rigid pipe so it did not have any mounting features. To fix this, I used 2 small "L" brackets held on with a hose clamp. This now gave me to mounting points that I could screw to some large threaded standoffs.
Attachment 310728Attachment 310726

Once I had the pump ready, I decided to work on the tank. I installed a push to lock bulkhead fitting in the tank with a hose line to the bottom with a suction screen.

Attachment 310732 Attachment 310734

Once everything was set up I did a test run of the pump and all is working great. I just received a nice control box that has a illuminated button and potentiometer to control the pump speed that I will install once i have some sort of panel.

Attachment 310736 Attachment 310738

Next on the agenda is mount the upper frame and I plan to work on that early next week.

Marc

[toddbeau]

Topsflo? They do move a good big of water, did you test it with 6-8' of head?

[Bearhawk LSA]

Topsflo? They do move a good big of water, did you test it with 6-8' of head?

I did not test the head height yet since I did not have enough hose left over. The spec sheet says a bit over 3 meters so I should be good. I only need to pump about 5' high or so.

Marc

[Bearhawk LSA]

Hello All,

I had been away for a bit due to being too busy with other things. Today I worked on the enclosure as well as cleaning up the machine a bit. I drilled holes in the frame and enclosure to allow them to be attached and bolted to one another. The upper enclosure was originaly built by the previous owner and I designed a new lower frame to work with the upper.

Attachment 316358

I also installed some sheet metal drip guides that limit the amount of area where the coolant can fall into the lower tray. These are held in place with the same screws I use to mount the upper frame to the lower frame. At the end, I cut and bent a small area that is used to clip and hold the end up with the drip pan that was exiting on the upper enclosure. The upper frame is now ready for the machine to be installed.

Attachment 316360 Attachment 316362

I currently have the machine sitting on a table and I am going through it and getting it ready to install in the frame. Here is where I have a few questions. The Kip handles seem to be used to preload the gibs on each axis. I am not a fan of thee kip handles and I am considering removing them and preloading the gibs with a set screw instead. Also once preloaded I can then install a second set screw in the same hole to lock it in place. I am curious if this sounds OK. If another method is better I would love to hear it.

Attachment 316364 Attachment 316366

I removed the fabric chip guard for the X & Y axis since it was pretty much shot and I plan to make new ones with some .06" rubber sheet i have. The Z axis bellows are not the best either, but I think I can reuse them.

Attachment 316368

I also have some questions in regards to tramming the axis. I want to make sure the Z column is perpendicular to the travel of the lower stages. I think I had seen a tramming tool for the GO704 on here, but have not been able to find it. Since the machine is not working, rather than make one, I will likely need to buy one. Any help with this would be great.

While the machine is out of the frame I would like to do as much as I can to set it up. Any advice on what I should make sure I do before installing it in the machine? Is there an online guide of things to check or do?

Best regards,

Marc

[Bearhawk LSA]

I just watched a few Hoss videos on Youtube so I have the tramming routine sorted out. I noticed the green dual indicator tool in the video. Is that for sale anywhere? I see the protram is similar at about $100 but wondering if the green one is less.

Thanks,

Marc

[hoss2006]

That's a spindle square that I made.
Kinda like the Pro Tram.
Pro Tram System - Edge Technology
Hoss

[Bearhawk LSA]

That's a spindle square that I made.
Kinda like the Pro Tram.
Pro Tram System - Edge Technology
Hoss

Hello Hoss,

Thank you for the quick reply. I also saw you used a DTI Zero Set in your video and am curious if that will do for my needs? Since my mill is not up and running yet I need to buy something instead of make. Or do you think the Pro Tram setup is a better option. Since my vice is a 5" I am thinking if I buy the Pro Set I should buy the mini one since its designed for smaller vices. Your thoughts.

I also asked about replacing the Gib Kipp Handles with Setscrews backed up and locked down with a second set screw on top. Is this an OK solution. A few of my kip handles are bent so they need replacing anyhow.

Also since the machine is out on a table. Is there a way to clean and oil the ways without removing the Axis? If needed I can, but the machine is already converted and I would hate to damage anything during diss assembly and reassembly. The machine has a few of your mods on it already, and I plan to find out which and then likey buy your CD and do a few more once its up and running.

Your website and advice has been a great help and I am thankful your ever willing to help out.

Take care,

Marc

[tomdchi]

I was thinking about the 2 dial indicator tramming tool, and the situation of just uncrating the G0704 (or similar). If I understand how the tramming tool works correctly, as long as the mill isn't totally out of whack, you should be able to drill a hole in the middle of a bar of aluminum, and two holes on either end for the dial indicators, then put a bar in to the center hole (with a set screw or locktite or whatever to keep it rigidly in place), mount the indicators, chuck the bar, and use it to then tram the mill...

Because you zero both the indicators on one consistent point, (if I understand correctly) the tramming tool doesn't have to be perfectly square itself, it just needs to be rigid and consistent.

right?

[DonKes]

I built mine with a piece of Aluminum, 2 holes and 1 indicator.

Tell me why I need 2 indicators.

Don

[109jb]

DonKes. Two indicators aren't "needed", but they make the job easier and quicker since you don't have to keep swinging the spindle around for each adjustment of the head.

Tomdchi . You are correct. A simple bar as you describe will work fine.

[Bearhawk LSA]

Hello All,

I have been a bit too busy to do much lately but I bought some ER16 holders online last night and a few other various bits. I do have a few more questions.

My mill currently doe snot have any limit switches. I dont understand why the original builder omitted them and it seems crazy. He said he never had a problem, but with hobby stuff it seems too risky. I do have flood coolant so I would likely need sealed limits. Is there a thread someone can link me to that has info on adding limits. Also any recommendation on what brand to buy. My guess is something on ebay from china.

My other question is the mill has been sitting for a bit of time. Its already in tram and I wonder if there is a way to lube the ways without taking the axis apart or removing the gibs? Can I just wipe off as much of the old grease as possible and then apply a thin film back? Or do I have to decouple the ballscrews and disassemble the machine. Any advice on what grease to use?

I plan to do a bit of work this weekend so would welcome some reply's ASAP.

Take care,

Marc

[Fastest1]

Due to the power of these machines no harm is usually done merely running into a stop. I am sure it is not good for the machine per se. A coupler will slip etc.

You can machine quite successfully with no limit or home switches after you become familiar with other location techniques. But limit/home switches are the best way to go IMO.
If you look here on post 52 you will see the way I did it. Both X & Y switches are installed into 1 piece and use the moveable table stops that came with the mill. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ld-pics-6.html

You can lube the machine safely with a combination of squirt cans, qtips and oil if you need to. Wipe all sliding surfaces, ball or leadscrews and move the machine to all extents during the process. Best to do it daily and more if running CNC.