[kstrauss]

My projects frequently require an assortment of tapped and clearance holes in a mixture of Imperial and metric sizes. Yes, that is dumb but when you need to mate two items made on different continents there aren't many good choices. To make things go faster I have purchased a number of ER16 TTS holders and pre-setup the various drill lengths in my tool table. Works great with my PDB (I can't afford an ATC)! Unfortunately, I sometimes confuse drills that are a similar size such as the tap drill for M4 (#28) and the tap drill for 8-32 (#29). Has anyone found a good way to label their tools? Or does everyone just religiously put the tools back into the right slot in their holder rack?

[LeeWay]

Number 1, number 2, number 3........Sorry, but that is what I do. As I could afford it, I added er tool holders to the stable. Until I had drill bit holders for the taps, I would drill a smaller hole and then interpolate the holes.
For my spare drill bits, I keep them in a separate ziplock bag with the size and tool number on it. I keep those in my tool drawer.
This all seems to work well, but it is an investment. It doesn't seem to hurt as much buying a few tool holders at a time though.

[popspipes]

I usually just mark the er collet holders with the tool number if they are dedicated. My black markers rub off and I have yet to find a good paint marker, but this is what I use at the present time.

[LeeWay]

I bought an engraver to mark the holders, but haven't done it.
Our tool caddy is full, so when a tool is in use, there is only one spot that it could go in. Those spots are numbered.

[Spinnetti]

I leave the tools in the holders, and have them in a rack keeping the same order, and the rack is numbered. That way you know what step you are on, and what tool is next without having to check a million ways (also a lean manufacturing principle called FMDS lol). Consistency is essential in the shop in my experience, so the more same you do it, the less mistakes. I sometimes use a sharpie on the holder too - easy to clean off as mentioned before "1, 2, 3..."

[MFchief]

Very low tech, but I use a white "paint pen" the brand name is Craftsmart, purchased from a Michael's craft store. Nothing special about this one, there are likely dozens of brands with would work equally well.

It's not permanent, but lasts 9-12 months before I need to re-mark. The white color shows up well against the TTS tool holders, and if for some reason I want to change the tool number, it comes of quickly with a de-burring wheel. I also number the holes on the tool stand.

Terry

[LeeWay]

All this means nothing though unless you have the tools setup in the tool table. You can fudge a little with drill bits, but some tools are not as forgiving. Campher tooling for instance.

[UniqueMachining]

For my permanent holders I print Brother labels using white tape and black text. I found the important thing was to taper or cut each corner which insures the labels do not come off even using full coolant.
As for storing the holders, the first row are the tools I will use for the current job(s). The remaining frequently used tools are stored numerically behind the first row.
I do not number the rows, which allows me to quickly reorganize for added or deleted tools. Less frequently used tools are stored separately in file cabinets.
For temporary tools I use a "whiteout pen" which is surprisingly durable.
Balance has never appeared to be a problem (up to 6000 rpm) but you could always label both sides.

John

[AUSTINMACHINING]

I made "tool pallets " that drop into the rail slots of my enclosure.

[shred]

Commonly used tools go into numbered slots on in the rack that match the tool # in PP. Other tools that aren't quite worth breaking down yet get thrown into the un-numbered rack and either a loose washer or stub-end of 1/2" PVC pipe with the PP tool # written on it slipped over the tool.

[mountaindew]

I also use a bunch of different drills and taps. Most simple method I have come up with is painters blue tape.
I peel some and fold in half use a razor knife to cut x for bit to poke thru and use a black sharpy pen to mark size.
I can have these on both bits in tools and ones in a foam rack at side. "note right side of picture below all the bits in a foam block" This way I I can find them fast and don't need to get magnifier out and look at tiny numbers on the tool!


Something to consider anyway.

[pickled]

This is a good thread. I mark my tool holders with Dykem Brite Mark Paint Markers. I can still see the markings after a year of abuse. If you want to get rid of the writing acetone is the best trick.

[R.DesJardin]

Dremel with carbide burr, it's for life, not a problem.

[mountaindew]

I know 80% my tools well enough to not need numbers or any ID at all. I do use numbers in cam and in offset table and there is always a tool setup to those values. Running mostly 1/2 - 1/8 end mills and round nose end mills are easy to ID and other tools like fly cutters, arbor saws are also easy to ID and require little effort to find and use. On the other hand tools like thread mills, taps and drills are often so close in shape, size and profile requiring some sort of label for most of them. In short I use tool numbers in cam and offset table and then use the tool description most the time when working at mill. Just a habit I formed good or bad.

[Steve Seebold]

I have NEVER used the tool library on my machine. I always set the tools I need in the offset page. I think the tool library is a total waste. Why would I want to use T4 H47.

Besides, when you change whatever tool is in H47, that length changes anyway.

I don't have that many tool holders and what I have works really well for me.

[Jabs1542]

We all have our own little personal whacky that makes us different. I took a totally different approach.

First: I made strips that fit the TTS holder, every strip has the tool number, then to the left the tool definition, and then to the right the tool data itself for reordering. Picks provided. The strips are barely smaller than the circumference and a little thinner than the TTS edge they are attached to. I print them on stickyback paper, attach them, and then run a length of scotch tape over that for coolant protection, Note that the paper has to be a little smaller than the TTS lip so that the scotch tape can make a good bond and make the attachment water tight.

Second: My tools are stored in a matrix (all in holders) where columns represent sizes (large down to small) and rows represent bit types (2 flutes, 3 flutes, 4 flutes, ball mills, etc). Therefore, for instance all of my aluminum 3 flute cutters are in the 3x series, all of my 1/2" bits are x1, therefore the 1/2" aluminum bit will always be 31. Makes finding tools in CAM very quick.

Attachment 310040 Attachment 310042

[popspipes]

We all have our own little personal whacky that makes us different. I took a totally different approach.

First: I made strips that fit the TTS holder, every strip has the tool number, then to the left the tool definition, and then to the right the tool data itself for reordering. Picks provided. The strips are barely smaller than the circumference and a little thinner than the TTS edge they are attached to. I print them on stickyback paper, attach them, and then run a length of scotch tape over that for coolant protection, Note that the paper has to be a little smaller than the TTS lip so that the scotch tape can make a good bond and make the attachment water tight.

Second: My tools are stored in a matrix (all in holders) where columns represent sizes (large down to small) and rows represent bit types (2 flutes, 3 flutes, 4 flutes, ball mills, etc). Therefore, for instance all of my aluminum 3 flute cutters are in the 3x series, all of my 1/2" bits are x1, therefore the 1/2" aluminum bit will always be 31. Makes finding tools in CAM very quick.

Attachment 310040 Attachment 310042

I did something similar, using a labelmaker, the problem with mine is not using regular coolant, the oil disolves the sticky on the back of the tape.

I am thinking about just engraving a number on all of them, then use that in the tooltable and sprutcam.

[TXFred]

You can see my labeling system in this thread.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/tormac...3-tormach.html

I set up each tool in the Sprutcam library, with feeds and speeds predefined. (Takes me about a day to do.)
Then when I program, I can select tools with feeds and speeds already set up.

My label maker has a setting that will print the text upside down and right side up. This is useful since I have tools upside down in the rack, and right side up in the spindle or ATC.

[R.DesJardin]

I set up each tool in the Sprutcam library, with feeds and speeds predefined. (Takes me about a day to do.)
Then when I program, I can select tools with feeds and speeds already set up.

That is exactly how I do it, just have to remember steel or aluminum with the drills, slight change to Speeds and Feeds. I probably have close to 100 dedicated tools, probably 60 of I use most of the time.

[MichaelHenry]

I set up each tool in the Sprutcam library, with feeds and speeds predefined.

How do you preset the feeds & speeds in SprutCAM? How do you handle pre-set S&F for materials that significantly different from each other, like aluminum and SS?