[roach]

think thats a challenge bobwar
just looking st your sponsors given me lots of good idea for what u can do
and looking at you builds it can be retrofitted
and if jhudler can go to those tolrences yes
the only thing we might hve to do is make a cradle forthe router where the vib comes from
if anyone use msn mines [email protected] im better answering question
than thinking of what u do lol

[Zumba]

yes should be about 2500kg/m for that mix we use ciba geigy resin (as it wa#)if i was in the states id send you one of our test blocks
looking at the sheets our resin alot better alot better wetting properties

Is this resin available in the states?

How do the wetting properties compare when the stuff we're using is combined with BYK-W 969?

http://www.byk.com/additives/control...218#PROD_34473

[Zumba]

Edit: nevermind

[jhudler]

I created a linear bearing out of EG and a new formula for Low Friction paste.

After a ton of research, I decided to buy some different powdered metals and lubricants: Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Bronze, PTFE (Teflon), Graphite, Molybdenum Disulphide.

The EG formula for the housing is the 1/6 each (PPV) of #6 Alox, #4 Quartz, #2 Quartz, #2/0 Quartz, Z800, Cabosil M-5 which is a slight modification of the current formula in that I swapped the Z200 for Cabosil Fume Silica.

The EG/LF compound is (PBW):

5 - Epoxy (Resin and Hardener)
1 - Molybdenum Disulphide powder (Dow Corning Z Moly-Powder)
1 - Graphite
1 - Aluminum
1 - 3M G-200 Zeeosphere's
0.5 - Copper
0.3 - Cabosil M-5
0.2 - PTFE - BYK Ceraflour 980

This makes a very pourable mix that de-airs quickly.

This bearing is based on a set that I had: Thomson TWN-10-OPN 5/8 shafting.

I do not have pictures of the mold and molding operation… they were lost… grrr grumble grumble... wife... grumble.

It was a wood mold OAK/MDF that was sprayed (2 coats) with PVA and allowed to dry. Taking it apart was easy on the MDF but the Oak pieces were a little too attached which required a more destructive level of force to remove. However, the PVA did do its job with about 90% of the surfaces separating cleanly. PVA on MDF (sealed with shellac) was 100% perfect.

Next time I do this I will make one bearing that’s 2 feet long and use aluminum sheet to separate the segments and UHMW for the body.

The shaft is very stiff in the block right now, I'm going to let it finish curing another 24 hours before I try to lub it up and lap it if need be.

Here’s the pictures:

[brunog]

Nice work Jack!
I suggest calling the low friction paste EB (epoxy babbitt). Did you spray any PVA on the shaft? if so that should have given a couple of thous play.

Best regards

Bruno

[jhudler]

I sprayed "EPOXEASE" release agent on the shaft. I pressed it out after the room temperature cure, and then reinserted it for the post cure.

[romihs]

Jack,

Amassing job you did there!!
I was a bit concerned about designing 'small' parts for my lathe project, but you have just gone and made a smaller part. :-)

Can't wait for the test results. I am quite curious about the strength of the part.

Best regards

Sandi

[jhudler]

Just played with it now that it's cool from post cure.

Without any lubrication it slides with a little stiction.
After lubrication with molybdenum disulfide and it's like air.
Almost makes me wish I had gone through with the idea of putting oil lines in and running air instead.

Now to cutout some felt way wipers and insert them in the ends.

[jhudler]

Jack,

Amassing job you did there!!
I was a bit concerned about designing 'small' parts for my lathe project, but you have just gone and made a smaller part. :-)

Can't wait for the test results. I am quite curious about the strength of the part.

Best regards

Sandi

Thanks!

The original bearing weighs 384 grams, the EG bearing weighs 343 grams. The mounting flanges are twice as thick and the walls are almost two times as thick.

I'm trying to decide how to test it to destruction. The easyiest method would be to pull the shaft up through the block. I'm afraid I'd bend my shaft doing that (no gutter remarks here ).

Anyone here that has mixed up a batch of EG would attest to it's strength, it still takes me by surprise.
Before I made this I thought it would only be safe to use this in compression however, afterwards I'd say it's safe to use in any orientation that a conventional open block bearing would be allowed.

Thing is you can make this bearing as long as you want and as strong as you need.
The limiting factor is going to be the Low Friction compound.

Jack

[brunog]

Jack,
How thick is the low friction compound layer?

[jhudler]

It's an 1/8 of an inch... very bouncy!
Now that I've done this, I think this is way too thick. should be 'wafer' (said with a french accent) thin.

Jack

[qroger]

Reading this:

it may have been posted before rent one of these to vibrate
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...3Doff%26sa%3DN
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...3Doff%26sa%3DN
might be able to rent one

Made me remember searching for a concrete vibrator on google. Don't be surprised by your results. Anyway the vibration fluid-ises the aggregate. The danger is that too long of an application can cause the sizes to segregate.

[alex_ku]

2groger:
links are dead.

[BrendaEM]

Only as thick as a mint?

[jhudler]

Only as thick as a mint?

We we... a "wafer-thin mint"

WARNING... The following Monty Python sketch is arguably one of the most repulsive in twentieth-century cinema. Only for the strongest of stomachs! [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlK62rjQWLk"]YouTube - Mr Creosote (Monty Python)[/ame]

[roach]

coarse you have to be careful with a poker
we use oilfree slideway/bearing coating you better do alot of testing make sure itworking the way you want it too
we run air generaly
google skc

[brunog]

Jack,
have you started testing your EG slide yet?

Is the low friction compound still as bouncy?

Best regards,

Bruno

[jhudler]

Jack,
have you started testing your EG slide yet?
Is the low friction compound still as bouncy?

Bruno, I've only done some light testing. I exercised it for 500 feet with 100 lbs today and I couldn't detect any changes in tolerances from the start.
As for bouncy... I would now characterize this as damping. I saw very little deformation from being pressed with 500 lbs which is beyond the rated load of the same Thomson block.

The next set will be about 1 or 2 mm in thickness and use some cutout sticker material for oil grooves.

The Zeeospheres are great at holding oil, in fact I found they can hold 60 grams of oil per 100 ml. Though I'm not sure how they arrived at that number... suffice to say it's doing the job.

Tempted to try moly, graphite, and Zeeospheres only.

Need to figure out a way to make square or rectangular ways, but finding round ground precision shafting is a while lot easier.

Jack

[harryn]

you can buy kiln dried sand http://www.diy2u.net/products/kiln-dried-sand_CE01.html
Kiln Dried Sand

Don't forget the final alcohol rinse to remove water bonded to the surface.

[jhudler]

Don't forget the final alcohol rinse to remove water bonded to the surface.

Reagent grade alcohol