[Woodenspoke]

I posted this on the Fusion site but figured I should also post it here. Give you an insite into the Fusion kit and my first impressions. This is my first CNC project and I have alot to learn still. I will hopefully post my progress so others can compare what direction I have taken to CNC my X2 mill. I believe the total package will be about $1720 when all is done. Then add an additional $150.00 for Mach 3. I may sell of all the spare parts I now have on hand and further reduce my costs.

Its a long post so here goes

X2 Fusion kit with preloaded ball screws, my first impressions and installation thoughts.

First I have a HF X2 mill with the little machine shops belt drive retrofit kit installed.

My first impressions out of the box, everything was intact and not damaged. Never having used ball screws I first started running the ball screw ball nuts up and down the shaft. I noticed varying degrees of side to side play from rock solid to loose fitting. I emailed Fusion and the reply was side to side play should not affect the performance of the screw. The Y axis was tight, the X axis was a little loose, and the Z axis was very loose. According to Home Shop CNC both pieces vary in dimensions from Nook. My assumption was that the preloaded Ball nuts were tighter than normal Ball Nuts? With this response and what I have read, I got started.

Sadly no instructions, even though I am mechanically inclined some procedures on the Z axis I wound up doing twice. The whole procedure took about 3 hours not including my mistakes. A DVD would be great here maybe someone could ask Swarfrat.com to whip one up for everyone, lol.

First the Z axis:

I removed the Z axis drive components that came with my HF X2 mill. Everything including the gear rack. I used the included HF column limit stop to keep the head from sliding down and crashing into the table. I also took off the tension arm screw (new style x2 mill) so the head can be moved up beyond the top of the column and down closer to the table. I loosened the gib screws so the head can move freely. This was my first mistake, once you mount the new Z axis ball nut block the gib screws are covered so you cannot adjust the Z axis gib screws again. I also realized that the Z axis limit stop gib lever is in line with the new ball screw. I found this to be an annoyance and it made it harder to set the kit in place (my experience). I also noticed that the large cap screw used on the inside of the column to attach the ball nut block was a tight fit for all 10MM hex wrenches I owned. I found an old 10mm shortie and cut of an additional ½ inch off in order to get it into the cap screw. The Z axis motor mount should be installed with the mills head very low to the table so you have clearance to drill and tap the top motor mounting plate. This is the only modification to the mill, two holes and they are above the old upper limit stop. So if you need to go backward (non CNC) it’s no damage done.

Z Axis procedure as I see it

1. Set the mills head at the midpoint of the column and set the Z axis limit block so the head cannot slide down.
2. Remove the upper limit stop bumper and screw; save the screw you will need it later.
3. Do not loosen any gib set screws and make sure they are property adjusted and locked down tight before you proceed any further.
4. Remove the outer screw from the new style spring tension arm and swing the arm upward. Hold the arm while doing this it’s under tension. I do not know if you will need to do anything with the long spring arm style support.
5. Remove all of the drive components from the mill (pinion drive assembly), its 4 cap screws, and the cover plate (2 Philips screws). Save the two shortest cap screws you will need these later to mount the new Z axis ball nut block. The whole assembly should slide out in one piece (it is not necessary to take the handle off to remove the pinion drive but you can unscrew the three arms afterwards for storage). You can also remove the pinion Rack it won’t be needed and all that grease is messy.
6. Carefully slide the head up and over the top of the column (not off of it) to expose about half of the back of the mills head, again set the Z axis limit stop in place. You may need to do this slowly in small steps if you are working alone. I found the gib very tight near the top and had to use a c clamp for the final 6 inches of movement.
7. With the new Z axis assembly move the ball nut block as far down as you can get it from the motor mount then start to attach the ball nut block. The large screw comes off and is inserted through the back of the head (which is now exposed) this is tightened with a 10mm hex wrench (see comments above). The two front screws are inserted (the two short cap screws you saved from the drive assembly) make sure the block is aligned with the frame of the head then tighten the two screws. Next tighten the big 10mm cap screw. The sequence here is unimportant just eye ball square.
8. Remove the two screws and nuts from the Z axis motor mount (if you haven’t done this already), and then slowly lower the head down so the spindle is just above the table and the Z axis motor mount is sitting on the top of the column supporting the mills head. The motor should be low enough so you can work on the three mounting holes. Again use your limit stop.
9. Insert the screw you saved from the upper column stop into the elongated center hole and carefully align the ball screw parallel with the right side of the column and tighten (you don’t want the ball screw cocked at an angle when you start drilling).
10. Now drill and tap or dill and secure the two provided screws. Use a center hole punch if you have one you don’t want these two holes too far off center. Check the alignment of the ball screw to the column before you tighten the last two screws. There is some play on all screws to make adjustments. Your done.


As I removed the Z axis kit the first time to fix my gib screw mistake I cursed myself for not reversing the limit block so the lever was on the left side of the column and out of the way of the ball screw. Maybe some day I’ll fix it, but you will need to move the mill head off the column to flip it and with my luck something else will be in the way.

The Y axis was next. First I looked at the paper tube and decided not to attempt to remove the nut from the back side of the screw. A smart move as I later discover this would have been the wrong way. The issue here is removing the lock nut on the Y axis motor mount, you need a small spanner and I had none that small. I found a small piece of aluminum and made one using my bandsaw and several files. I used a wooden vise to hold the ball screw while removing the lock nut. The assembly was uneventful except I had to use a ¼’ thick piece of rubber and a pair of vice grips to hold the Ball screw while getting the lock nut back on, on the mill.

The X Axis also required a spanner of another size (same spanner I made worked fine here). You also must remove the original shaft from the X axis bearing seat, a small Arbor press helped me out but is not necessary. Remove and clean both bearings from the bearing seat, clean and repack them with quality grease before reassembly. Notes: motor mount on the left of the table and the shaft extension on the right between the table and the original bearing seat. Again not really any need for detailed instructions

So far everything feels tight but I have not checked it with an indicator. I am still awaiting a 4 axis drive kit from Xylotec. I managed to secure a long T handle Hex wrench into one of the loose motor mounts so I can rotate the ball screws. So far it looks like a vast improvement.

What I didn’t like so far

No detailed instructions… Hopefully my post will help others.
The Z Axis ball nut block which covers the gib screws… I wouldn’t mind drilling a few extra holes so I don’t have to dissemble the z Axis to make gib adjustments down the road.
List of tools you should have on hand before you get the kit. Hey I thought I had every tool known to man except two small spanner wrenches. Most of the kit can be assembled with a set of metric hex wrenches.

Woodenspoke

[Tim Wiltse]

Woodenspoke,

I just completed the conversion to CNC of my X2 also. Like you I too used the CNC ballscrew(3 axis ) kit and Xylotec 3 axis "ready kit". If you look at the CNC Fusion website you will find instructions with pictures for installation of their kits! Thanks for the write up just the same.

http://www.cncfusion.com/images/X2mo...sembly-BS.html


LAter,
Tim

[Woodenspoke]

Tim

Yes I read through the instructions on the web site. Very basic at best. For what you and I paid they could at least include a copy in the box? The pictures they provide along with their web instructions are not instructional pictures just pictures of the parts. Don't get me wrong I like the kit (so far), but I hate the fact that the excuse is "I am selling so many kits I cant really provide instructions"; well make the time or farm it out; it is your business.

When I received the Belt drive conversion kit the instruction where 4 pages long and overly detailed, and thats what should be provided.

I was not really trying to create an instructional manual even though it looks like it. It was susposed to be more if an insight into installing the kit. Hopefully someone who has never installed the kit will find it more enlightening.

I not putting down Fusion or the kit in fact I applaud them for their insight and providing what I see is really the only worthy kit in town. I just personally expected more for the price.

Lets see what Xylotex provides with their 4 axis kit?

Woodenspoke

[Tim Wiltse]

I believe my Xylotec package(3 axis "Ready Kit" came with 2 pieces of paper. It was just about setting the voltages etc which was already done on the "Ready Kit".

Were on the Y axis was there a lock nut needing a spanner wrench? I remember the lock nut on the end of the X axis. I found that one of the spanners from my model airplane engines worked for it.

Later,
Tim

[Woodenspoke]

Tim

Yes it was a lock nut slightly larger than the X axis nut same type needs a spanner. The nut held the shaft tight against the bearings on the motor mount. The space available to get a spanner in there was tight about 3/8 inch (guesstimate).The lock nut is nice saves adjusting two nuts (original shaft). I checked the Fusion site and the lock nut is clearly pictured in the kit and there is one on all three axis in the kit.

Thanks for the heads up on the Xylotec. I ordered the 4 axis kit even though I don't have a rotary table yet. With 3 axis running I can make my own 4th axis mount.

I figured that there was little that needed to be done except mount the motors and program Mach3 for the setup. The hardest part I think will be working through Mach3. Artsoft has a very large manual I look forward to reading it.

Woodenspoke

[Tim Wiltse]

Woodenspoke,

I was a complete newbie with all of this CNC stuff. I have had my X2 for a couple of years put really haven't used it much at all. Heck I didn't know what a ballscrew was till a couple of months ago! The more I read on the internet the more confused I became on what I needed to convert my mill. So back in September or October I bit the bullet and decided on the CNCFusion kit and then I "found" out about Xylotec and it was great for me with them having a package more or less ready to go. All I have to do was make an enclosure for the board and cooling fan and plug everything else up. I will say that I don't have any limit or homing switches on my machine as of yet. I plan to do so but it looks like I need a breakout board to mount seperate limit and home switchs to the Xylotec board. Again the more I read on the subject the more confused I get. But in the mean time with only the 267oz steppers if something went crazy and the machine crashed I do believe there is enough power to hurt to much. Plus while running I am right there with it and I have always made a "dry" run of everything I have made so far to make sure some setting wasn't off.
I printed out the Mach 3 manual and put it into a 3 ring binder. I much have read it a half dozen times before I even got my machine together. It was all Greek to me at the time. Reading it was one thing, really doing it was like "oh I see now" type of thing. Everyday it gets easier and easier.

Later,
Tim

[Woodenspoke]

Tim

I ordered the Xylotec complete kit, no need to make an enclosure it is truly plug and play. I plan on using this machine to do small production runs so the less time I spend on putting the machine together the better. I now have to re-tram the table again to see if everything is still in specs.

Right now I am trying to learn Solid Works, Not as bad as I thought using the tutorials.

I always learn faster when I am not trying to make something work in theory so I need the drives before I play with Mach3. I am going to set up the drives in my computer room and then check the program before I smash up the mill.

I have been milling over limit switches too. I am going to check the documentation with Xylotec when I get my kit later next week (it shipped today and I'm across the country).


Woodenspoke

[Jay C]

I not putting down Fusion or the kit in fact I applaud them for their insight and providing what I see is really the only worthy kit in town. I just personally expected more for the price.

Woodenspoke

On what criteria did you base this statement on? I'm curious how one evaluates on kit from another without seeing/trying it? Also, I keep seeing information contrary to putting ball screws on the X and Y axises. Since you don't have your drivers yet so maybe Tim can provide his input.

Jay

[Woodenspoke]

On what criteria did you base this statement on? I'm curious how one evaluates one kit from another without seeing/trying it?

Jay

If you know of any other complete Kit with ball screws let everyone know, because I couldn't find any anywhere. I don't see how anyone can try or see every kit? I read the same reviews you have and made my decision based on what is available.

I base my statements on my limited experience. I can clearly see how tight the ball screws and nuts are. Where I could physically feel the X axis move (Runout), with the preloaded ball screws I cannot feel any movement. When you turn the ball screws, CW or CCW the table moves, not a few clicks later as was the case with the standard acme screws.

I went with Fusion because I wanted precision and I wanted a kit that was complete without having to do additional work to the mill. If I do have a runout problem it will be a problem for Fusion to figure out.

Woodenspoke

[Jay C]

I know of only one other complete kit that are ball screw. www.kdntool.com kit is high dollar (in the $800-1100 range) having ground screws with preloaded nuts as options. However, Ron Steele and others have told me via email and their own posts that converting the X and Y to ballscrews will not make the machine much better over the stock ACME screws with the stock nut split.

My post came off a bit harsh, that wasn't my intent. I appreciate your input as much as anyone else that takes the time to provide their experience with the rest of us.

Jay

[Woodenspoke]

I went to the KDN tool site, I was there before, but I guess I had to dig deeper to see the kit. Other than the Z axis mounting it seems like a close match for the Fusion kit only a lot more money.

I wanted to keep my mill under $2000 which I have.

I don't see any mention of ground ball screws, just upgraded rolled ball screws? The standard screws are the same Nook ball screws sold with the Fusion kit.


Hint: to everyone selling X2 upgrades or any upgrade over the web: Get someone to make you a functional web site. I cant tell you how many times I have missed products or gave up because the site was so poorly designed.

[Jay C]

You are right, I took precision to mean ground ... but he calls them precision rolled screws. I know what you mean about these websites though ... took me a while to figure out the KDN one. Have you received your Xylotex yet?

Jay

[Woodenspoke]

Jay

No not yet still waiting and it has been a week already. I have no idea why Xylotex ships the units out Parcel post? Knowing the post office I hope it arrives in one piece or arrives at all.

I have been working over my mill trying to get the machine trammed properly. I had ordered a swarfrat video on tramming thge mini mill. They use a set of 1,2,3 Blocks and parallels as the two surfaces to tram from. The Parallels are used as a flat surface on top of the blocks. They recommend not using the bed as a surface. I found my parallels not uniform in thickness so I used one block and parallel and moved it from side to side. The Y Axis was also way off and I had to shim up the front of the column by .004 in.

I have the indicator reading to about .0005 in a 2 inch circle about the center of the spindle and less than 1/2 that over the x axis. I hope this is good enough. I don't believe the bed is dead on and I'm not getting it precision ground until I can see any negative effects. From what I have read the fit and finish of each machine is a never a given.

Woodenspoke

[Jay C]

I wonder how is it any different to use 123 blocks with parallels on top versus using the parallels directly on the table? I have also read of other using float glass on the table as the indicating surface. I am waiting to tram mine extensively until I complete the CNC conversion. I already know I'll have to disassemble it anyway Of course I'm still debating my choices and waiting for my funding to reach the spend point

Jay

[Woodenspoke]

It's surprising how long it took me to finally check the table for level. I have a dip in the center of about .001 in, or should I say both ends are bowed up. Anyway it doesn't look like a major issue. Maybe I will try and flatten it on my small granite surface plate using some sandpaper or maybe just ignore it until I cant any longer then have a shop grind it flat.

I received the Xylotex kit today. Thankfully in one piece. the kit is true plug and play, I just added some tags to each axis so I didn't have to remember connector colors. Got the motors to spin up using the Mach3 demo. I am still very confused on how to set the motor up for the steppers and the ball screw I have? I will read and re-read the sections in the Mach3 manual. lets see 5 tpi, 200 steps per revolution. 1/8th step setting... My head hurts.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be another step closer to machining something.

I had one thought about putting two sets screws in the column base to tram the y axis properly without shims.

Woodenspoke

[wilfreeman]

Hi Woodenspoke,

I also bought the CNCFusion kit (just the motor mounts and Z axis to start, then finished upgrading to ballscrews last week). In Mach3, just set the tuning @ 8000 for all axis (remember to click the axis before you set it, and save axis after), click on velocity and accel, save, then go to the settings screen - axis calibration, to get an accurate tuning - quick and easy!

[Woodenspoke]

What did you set the acceleration to?

I did finally figured out the 8000 step number. 200 steps per revolution x 8 steps (Xylotex set at 1/8 micro steps or 8 steps per motor step) = 1600 steps per revolution, 1600 x 5 rotations per inch (ball screws are 5 full turns per inch) = 8000 steps per inch. (this is for everyone else who is going through the same process).

However I have not tuned the motor settings yet. The weird thing is two of the motors were going in the wrong direction so I made a change in the software port/pin configuration to reverse them. (Note: Read the engraved Blocks on the Fusion kit to make sure the motor is driving properly in the + or -direction on each axis).

I could have sworn the motors were turning the other way yesterday???

Tomorrow or the next day I will do the motor axis tuning. This is going to take awhile before I am ready to run some g-code.

Has anyone set up home and limit switches on their 4 axis Xylotex board, and how did that work out???

I know on the 3 axis board you cannot add additional inputs, you would need a separate breakout board. Its almost worth the extra few dollars to get the 4 axis board.

Woodenspoke

[wilfreeman]

Yeah, the tuning can be a pain! I'm running some really small steppers (200 oz/in - to be upgraded to some triple stack 400+ soon!), and it seems like every time I have it set just right, I'll miss some steps during testing - a real pain! I also can't get the gibs as tight as I want and still get good speed with the current steppers.

I think I had to reverse my X and Z axis also.

I am pretty much in the same boat as you - I have been working on my X2 conversion (off and on) for about 1 1/2 yrs. I made my own motor mount and coupler for X and bought the mount and coupler for Y and the ballscrew/mount/coupler for Z from CNCFusion. I fought with my X axis coupler up until about Christmas when I said screw it, I'm buying myself a present - I went ahead and bought the ballscrew conversion and made a new mount for X (a 1" thick piece of aluminum, bandsaw, holesaw, drillbits, and a tap). I finished the conversion earlier this week. I ran a few test cuts (a rectangular pocket and a circular pocket) in Mach 3 - and can tell I need to check and find out where the backlash is coming from. I also need to adjust my gibs again. I haven't run any real g-code yet, as I haven't learned any software yet - just playing with the wizards. I haven't even registered it yet - although I am going to as soon as my abilities get to the point of being able to make a real part!

I printed out the Mach 3 manual at work the other night and put it in a binder - I will be reading it on our trip to Florida today (9 hrs). I did read something that caught my eye last night - you can use a regular Windows joystick for jogging! Now to find out some of the other hidden things about Mach. I can see that this is some great software at a really good price!


I still have to set up limits and an E-stop. I've been reading some on the subject, although I not to the point of really understanding. I can see the need for the breakout board - that's about as far as I have gotten!

Good luck
Matt

[Jay C]

200oz-in are enough. Have a look at the first post on page 5 from Mariss:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=22211&page=5

If you are missing steps it could be that your acceleration is set too high, noise/poor connection, or too much binding. This is what I have read ... I'll be joining the CNC X2 club in the next few weeks as my parts arrive. Also, you want a quick education of the immediate power of Mach3 .. .go watch their videos ... the Conversational wizards are awesome. I mean one can design a Nema motor mount with out any CAD ... all in MACH3. LazyCAM looks cool too.

BTW, the installation and introduction videos are a great FAQ for beginners (like me). I'm more of a visual learner, and the videos are high quality.

FWIW,
Jay

[Tim Wiltse]

I believe the Xylotex 3 axis drive board has just as many inputs as the 4 axis. They both have a "built in breakout board" of sorts. We can hook up limits but not the "right" way without an aftermarket breakout board as there is not enough inputs on the Xylotex boards.

The Mach 3 videos are without question kickbutt! As you start using the software things start making sense. The videos provide that little extra "oh I see". Really the best way is to get yourself some scrap and start cutting. It's the first hump that it alittle hard to get over after that it gets easier.

LAter,
Tim