[Mmpie]

Be interesting to hear how you'd propose doing it. I saw a video on Facebook of a chap sticking a lathe tool in his vice and turning it in situ. Not sure I'd ever attempt that!


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[mactec54]

Lets get down to Earth and become more meaningful.........the prospect of a spindle bore taper run out is a bad dream to haunt anyone with a new mill....it just won't go away and MUST be fixed or you'll forever have a cutter sizing problem due to elliptical cutting paths.

So, what can you do to a spindle bore taper to correct it when there is run out?

The first recourse would be to send it back to the supplier under warranty.....at your shipping cost of course there and back.

There are other ways less costly, so I expect we'll have a plethora of examples from the experts in the next few posts.
Ian.

With all your knowledge and wisdom, I would of thought you would of posted how to fix it, this is not difficult to do, I have seen hobby machinists, do things more complicated than this

[handlewanker]

With all your knowledge and wisdom, I would of thought you would of posted how to fix it, this is not difficult to do, I have seen hobby machinists, do things more complicated than this

Yes Mac, quite true if you know how........I was attempting to put the ball in your court to deflate some of the wind you have been blowing but you evaded the issue approx 4 times........LOL......big hat.....bigger head.

The absolute bog simple way is to just place the pulley on a rotary table on your mil, lightly clamped.....CNC or manual whatever...... and use a dial indicator with mag base mounted to one side indicating on the tips of the teeth.........when you get all teeth to zero clamp it down and re-bore the hole........how simple can you get.

But now we're onto a more important problem that the poster highlighted with the spindle bore taper run out............HOW WOULD YOU CORRECT THAT ONE?

I have an answer, but it relates to run out in the actual tool holder.....same difference etc....the spindle bore being dead true,

So, thinking caps on and lets have a solution as this can crop up any time with the foreign imports and pseudo warranties.
Ian.

[mactec54]

The absolute bog simple way is to just place the pulley on a rotary table on your mil, lightly clamped.....CNC or manual whatever...... and use a dial indicator with mag base mounted to one side indicating on the tips of the teeth.........when you get all teeth to zero clamp it down and re-bore the hole........how simple can you get. Ian.

And is this not, what everyone has already said how to do it, I think we should have a party, Ian just had a brain f----

You being a journeyman machinist, should of known how timing pulley manufacturer's do it, or if you only have a mill, with a indicator or a probe setup, the probe being the most accurate way to set it up, using a indicator would be third on the list, a fixture with soft jaws machined in place, is of cause the most common way to do it, for lathes or mills, ( and you can do it without the need a rotary table ) it's quite a simple every day operation

But now we're onto a more important problem that the poster highlighted with the spindle bore taper run out............HOW WOULD YOU CORRECT THAT ONE?

I have an answer, but it relates to run out in the actual tool holder.....same difference etc....the spindle bore being dead true,

So, thinking caps on and lets have a solution as this can crop up any time with the foreign imports and pseudo warranties.
Ian.

So why are you still talking about the timing pulley

The last post I replied to was only about the spindle run out, and now you have added tool run out as well, I guess you have some bad ER32 tool holders, which I said not to buy, they must look absolutely ridiculous using them on your wimpy 20 taper spindle, I would not even use them on a 40 taper machine

[handlewanker]

I don't think I'll reply to you again as you are going off at a tangent and not making sense.......all your suggestions about the topic of the timing pulley run out border on the ridiculous .....I've moved on to more important topics.
Ian.

[Mmpie]

And is this not, what everyone has already said how to do it, I think we should have a party, Ian just had a brain f----

You being a journeyman machinist, should of known how timing pulley manufacturer's do it, or if you only have a mill, with a indicator or a probe setup, the probe being the most accurate way to set it up, using a indicator would be third on the list, a fixture with soft jaws machined in place, is of cause the most common way to do it, for lathes or mills, ( and you can do it without the need a rotary table ) it's quite a simple every day operation



So why are you still talking about the timing pulley

The last post I replied to was only about the spindle run out, and now you have added tool run out as well, I guess you have some bad ER32 tool holders, which I said not to buy, they must look absolutely ridiculous using them on your wimpy 20 taper spindle, I would not even use them on a 40 taper machine

Is there a reason not to use er32 holders other than looking ridiculous? I bought ER32 and ER16 simply because they were on sale locally, and others weren't. Will be a 30 taper.


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[mactec54]

Is there a reason not to use er32 holders other than looking ridiculous? I bought ER32 and ER16 simply because they were on sale locally, and others weren't. Will be a 30 taper.


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Yours won't look so ridiculous with a 30 Taper, but it will depend on what you are going to use it for, ER11 ER16 up to ER20 / ER 25 is max anyone should ever need, for collet tooling, for milling, if you need bigger than 1/2" collet size, then there is something you are doing wrong, 1/2" and up you should be using solid tooling, collet tooling with large tools you get a lot of flex , the other problem is the big diameter of the Nut, this is the biggest problem you will have with it, Even with a ER16 you have to make sure you have enough clearance on the jobs you are doing, I use solid holders down to 3/16 or 5mm, tooling lasts much better also, I do use collets ER11 up to ER25 if you want good rigidity though use solid tooling

[inov8r]

How about I get you guys back on topic. Ian, since you were one of the first to receive a Skyfire mill, what have you been able to create on it? I really haven't heard too many of the owners report much on their machines.

[Mmpie]

Yours won't look so ridiculous with a 30 Taper, but it will depend on what you are going to use it for, ER11 ER16 up to ER20 / ER 25 is max anyone should ever need, for collet tooling, for milling, if you need bigger than 1/2" collet size, then there is something you are doing wrong, 1/2" and up you should be using solid tooling, collet tooling with large tools you get a lot of flex , the other problem is the big diameter of the Nut, this is the biggest problem you will have with it, Even with a ER16 you have to make sure you have enough clearance on the jobs you are doing, I use solid holders down to 3/16 or 5mm, tooling lasts much better also, I do use collets ER11 up to ER25 if you want good rigidity though use solid tooling

I get that, I'm not sure I'll be using much bigger than 1/2" on a skyfire though? I've not seen anyone putting the svm2 through its paces yet so I have no idea what it's really capable of. I have ordered the 3.7kw and ceramic bearing spindle. I bought a few ER32 holders because they're versatile, I'm a novice and although I know what parts I'll be making until I've got the machine in my hands and had a go with different sizes I don't really know what tools I'll be using right now. That and the fact as I said they were on sale, er20 or er25 were 2x the cost. They were a fair bit cheaper than skyfire sell them for so cheap enough to write off after I'm up and running if need be.


And yes it would be good to see some videos of the various skyfires really being put through their paces.


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[mactec54]

I get that, I'm not sure I'll be using much bigger than 1/2" on a skyfire though? I've not seen anyone putting the svm2 through its paces yet so I have no idea what it's really capable of. I have ordered the 3.7kw and ceramic bearing spindle. I bought a few ER32 holders because they're versatile, I'm a novice and although I know what parts I'll be making until I've got the machine in my hands and had a go with different sizes I don't really know what tools I'll be using right now. That and the fact as I said they were on sale, er20 or er25 were 2x the cost. They were a fair bit cheaper than skyfire sell them for so cheap enough to write off after I'm up and running if need be.


And yes it would be good to see some videos of the various skyfires really being put through their paces.


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That's why they are on sale not many are sold, the other sizes are the most popular, so the good quality tool holders, don't go on sale very often and cost what they can sell them for, you should change them if you can, you want a solid tool holder for a 1/2" cutter and above

Gauge Length of this tooling is important on small machines like this, so, the shorter you can get them the better, always look at the Gauge Length and the runout

[Mmpie]

That's why they are on sale not many are sold, the other sizes are the most popular, so the good quality tool holders, don't go on sale very often and cost what they can sell them for, you should change them if you can, you want a solid tool holder for a 1/2" cutter and above

Gauge Length of this tooling is important on small machines like this, so, the shorter you can get them the better, always look at the Gauge Length and the runout

What would you suggest, set screw holders? Surely the ER's would still be ok for light finishing skims where finish is necessary? Anything else I think is too expensive and probably overkill for a machine like this. £300 for a milling chuck to hold an equally expensive indexable end mill or something... I doubt if the machine is strong enough to really take any real advantage of tooling like that. 8mm or 10mm tooling will probably do for the vast majority of jobs but I know there are a couple of things I do need to cut deep, which will require long length 12mm+ end mills, then I guess it's a matter of rigidity and spindle power. Will probably rough those cuts in a couple of depths and finish pass at full depth. We will see.


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[mactec54]

What would you suggest, set screw holders? Surely the ER's would still be ok for light finishing skims where finish is necessary? Anything else I think is too expensive and probably overkill for a machine like this. £300 for a milling chuck to hold an equally expensive indexable end mill or something... I doubt if the machine is strong enough to really take any real advantage of tooling like that. 8mm or 10mm tooling will probably do for the vast majority of jobs but I know there are a couple of things I do need to cut deep, which will require long length 12mm+ end mills, then I guess it's a matter of rigidity and spindle power. Will probably rough those cuts in a couple of depths and finish pass at full depth. We will see.


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You will use your ER16s more if you are only using 10mm and below mostly, if cost is the issue and you already have them, They will work just fine for how you are planning to use them, you will find the main problem is big diameter nut

[daniellyall]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5re1gjILTc

[Roadstercycle]

Hi Guys, well hopefully now we can all get back on topic as this is a Skyfire owners and interested parties thread. I should finally be getting the VMC-2 this week as I was told by my customs broker. Hopefully earlier than later. After I get it I will be doing some checks and machining some parts to see what we have. I build forward/reverse gearboxes for motorcycle powered sand buggies and off road vehicles and I'm hoping this will do a lot of the processes needed. The processes consist of bearing pockets, deep through holes, rigid tapping, inside and outside grooving and facing, shaft splining. The 12 tool ATC should be a life saver. I'm really hoping for the best after this nightmare of waiting and waiting and waiting. Almost 5 months now.

Jack
Home

[handlewanker]

Hi....5 months....that quick!!!......worth the wait though.
Ian.

[mactec54]

Video post

A good video and a good example of what can be done on these machines, a slight problem with the tool change programing, but everything else looked like a normal cnc mill at work

[daniellyall]

Aaron Has had a few small problems with it, he has the Adtech controller.

[Roadstercycle]

Aaron Has had a few small problems with it, he has the syntec controller

Actually he's running the 4650 Adtech 5 axis controller, same as mine. Not the Syntec unless he's changed it in the last few weeks. Same problems that everyone has, leaks, rigid tapping g-code issue with the M29 code. All is straightened out now.
He loves his machine last time I talked to him so hopefully mine fairs as well. He did get the SVM-1 which is just a bit smaller than the SVM-2 that I have coming.

[daniellyall]

I forgot what controller he had, my bad.

It was good his favorite support dude sorted his post out for him he looks after good dudes like Aaron.

[Roadstercycle]

Well just got the call that the Skyfire is out of the Custom Met exam. Just got the bill too. I'm going to post it here just so you can see how messed up this BS is, like "Clean truck fee" and others. Anyway it may also be over, $2100 to get it out of Custom's jail. Here's the list, the ones underlined are what should of happened and I was prepared for. The REST is BS. "Pier pass charge" Sounds like a bridge Troll charge, BS. Anyway hopefully Pics tomorrow of a USA delivery after 5 months.

DEVANNING CHARGE 49.88

HANDLING CHARGE 75.00

CHASSIS RENTAL FEE 19.95

CHASSIS SPLIT FEE 11.97

CLEAN TRUCK FEE 11.97

PIER PASS CHARGE 23.94

PORT SECURITY CHARGE 25.00

CUSTOMS ID ACTIVATION FEE 25.00

ISF CHARGE 40.00

ISF BOND 65.00

CUSTOMS CLEARANCE FEE 95.00

CUSTOMS BOND 86.76

BONDED TRUCKING TO EXAM SITE 195.22

MET EXAM 195.00

MET PROCESSING FEE 55.00

LIFT-GATE 65.00

DELIVERY 188.10

RESIDENTIAL 55.00

WAREHOUSE CHARGES 87.00

IMPORT DUTY 736.87


$2,106.66 Total.


Holy crap they forgot to charge for the ink to make the invoice and printer maintenance fee. I feel a lot better now.


Jack