I wonder how they sort there hardware for the machines?
I wonder if it is done by weight or piece?
some guy in the back chuckin screws in a bag 1 by 1 lol?
I wonder how they sort there hardware for the machines?
I wonder if it is done by weight or piece?
some guy in the back chuckin screws in a bag 1 by 1 lol?
The machining company I used to work for did it all by weight. There's a special parts scale you can buy. Measure the weight of 10 pieces. Put in the scale that it's 10 pieces. Set scale remove parts. Put one in make sure it registers. Pull parts put dump in the amount you need for each assembly. Bag hardware. Sometimes you get off one or two if the parts aren't identical weight.
yeah true weight is the most productive way I guess you really got to keep on your manufacture and make sure that the tolerances are pretty close so you dont have to much missing hardware
I imagine that with the new design of machine something didnt get updated to needing 2 more pieces
Did the upgrades that you bought for your machines come with the linear rails like that? are you missing the same hardware?
oh thats right yeah you told me that
I really think if I buy another machine all those will be solid pieces like yours
and no I dont think that I could of because I have not gotten any hardware for the y-axis
the only thing I got in the 1st shipment was
Leg kit
Aluminum Extrusions
linear rails
Gear racks
and x-rail bumper stops
In the new revision the x and y are flip flopped. It had me all messed up until I spoke to Cory. Instructions are to be updated to reflect the change.
yeah hopefully the revised instructions are out soon
Alright I am now waiting on almost the rest of the parts that will be here today!!
I just noticed that I can't get me jointer out from that little corner lol I guess its going to have to stay there for now
the only thing that still needs to be done is the table made completely level but I dont have a good one and I think I was chasing things with my crappy framing level its close but its not exact
I ran into a small issue with the linear rails I guess that they are directional. They are not cut the same on both ends one end is rough cut and the other is a precise cut. So I flipped one of the rails over and it seemed to line up better. I wonder why they are cut the same on both ends?
So am thinking of building a water level to get the machine perfectly level anyone have any experience in doing this?
Workin,
Our profile linear rails are cut and deburred on one end (the norm for linear rails), and precision ground on the other end specifically for making a clean and precise splice when necessary. The cut and deburred end generally makes installing the linear blocks a bit easier, so only one end is precision ground for this purpose. We did neglect to point out in our assembly instructions that the orientation of the rails needs to be considered for machines with a rail splice. We are in the process of remedying this and will publish updated instructions very soon.
-Cory
I'm enjoying watching this build, really good size for a machine, but i'm wondering, does joining two linear rails together to make a longer rail impact on the life of the trucks and more specifically the bearings inside?
It seems to me that the bearings would be subjected to stress going over the join no matter how well aligned they are?
cheers, Ian
It's rumoured that everytime someone buys a TB6560 based board, an engineer cries!
I would think that since the butted ends are ground, they would leave very little seam if done correctly. Even if it does impact the trucks for a shorter lifespan on the balls, those are much easier replaced in linear trucks than the ones in ball screws. I imagine you could replace all the balls in all four table trucks in 1 to 2 hours with no trouble.
Compare that to the cost for longer rails plus the extra freight such an oversized fragile package would be and I think you could replace the balls every month for a few years and still come out cheaper.
Lee
Well, CRP might be better qualified to answer that than me, but here's my 2c.
Let's imagine that the rails are well-made and of really constant cross-section. Mind you, that is never absolutely true, but everything has some elasticity, so a few microns here or there can be absorbed.
Next, let's imagine that the ground ends are aligned within a few microns as well. That sound very hard to do, but isn't really all that difficult if done with care. Sliding your fingers over the joint can usually sense down to the micron level.
In addition, since the ends to be butted together have been ground square, there should be an extremely small gap between the rails (a few microns?).
Finally, the truck will be spreading its load over some distance, not just on a single ball.
So, if you do a really good job of setting the rails up, and don't travel up and down them at warp speed, I can't see too many problems.
Cheers
Roger
hey man thanks for the nice comment on hte build log I am enjoying it as well
and you know I am thinking the same thing I know eric bought solid x-rail extrusions and solid long linear rails for his machine and I will be doing the same if I do buy another machine
I got the linear rails as close as I could get them and I still feel a ridge in them so I agree I think that it will shorten the life of the bearings but I do not have alot of experience with them so I am not sure
I wonder how much extra in cost and shipping it would be to spec all the machines from CNC Router Parts with solid Items
Warp 9 - does that mean you use a Smooth Stepper?
:-)
I suggest you consult with CRP and get his advice about how to really align the rails. I am sure it is possible.
Cheers
Roger
Okay I think I put the linear bearing on wrong
I didn't notice that there is a machined surface on the top of them so a plate can sit flush and the assembly instructions didn't say they were supposed to be in a specific position so can anyone help me and tell me if I am doing this wrong?
So in this pic you can see one bearing has the machined surface on top and the other doesn't
in this pic you can see the plate that attaches to the bearings with only 1 machined surface
I am scared to take these bearings back off and switch them around lol wont all the little balls fall out? Can I just put the plastic retainer back in?
this sucks I just got them greased
Any help would be appreciated thanks a bunch
Yes, you can remove them from the rails by sliding them back over the plastic retainers. Do it carefully of course, but afaik people do that all the time. I have done that with round trucks and with ball screws myself. I suspect i have also done it with rails in the past as well, when we were setting them up.
Yes, you should have both machined surfaces on the same side: it helps with the alignment. That is what those surfaces are for, after all.
Me, I would mount up one set of rails using the alignment jig and then run one truck over the joint slowly a few times while holding the truck gently. If you can't feel any serious bumps as you go over the joint, then the balls won't be feeling anything either.
Without wishing to be discriminatory or biased or anything, these rails get mounted by hordes of relatively unskilled people, and even in Chinese factories. They are not that delicate.
Cheers
Roger