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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > Commercial CNC Wood Routers > Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table
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  1. #321
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    Juzwuz,
    Once you get Aspire, you won't need Vcarve Pro any longer. Cut3D, is still needed, valuable. Aspire doesn't carve a 2 sided or 4 sided model, nor does it have another function called 'slicing'.

    I've done some 2 sided carving in the past, and that's fun. But, I haven't had a need for 4 sided carving or the slicing function yet.

    I think the guys at Vectric got the priorities correct when they developed Aspire. The missing components are not a big priority. For a guy on a budget, I'd recommend buying VcarvePro first and then upgrade to Aspire at a later date.

    Over in the Joe 4x4 forum, one guy is building a 4th axis. That would be lots of fun and I might build one someday. If so, the cut3D 4 sided carving would work great with a 4th axis. That's a low priority right now. Even if I had a 4th axis, there are several "wrapper" programs that will transform a flat pattern into a cylindrical design for the 4th axis. Thus my recommendations above to buy VCP first then Aspire.

  2. #322
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    437
    Do the chips ever settle in your shop?
    Deeds not words...
    VoltsAndBolts runs RC for the builder. http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/ My Forum

  3. #323
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    50

    Limit Switches

    Dave, Your build thread has been an inspiration to me and from what I gather a lot of New builders. I have a few questions if you don't mind. A little background first. I built my machine using both your build thread and that of Ron (Broken Balsa) as directions because otherwise all I had was a pile of MDF. I have almost zero computer skills. After I finished building the machine I started to do a little research on drivers and motors. I settled on Xylotex
    425's and their plug n play set up. I did not need such big motors, as I stayed with the 1/4-20 lead screw for the time being, but they were on sale. I'll upgrade some time in the future after I get a bit more savvy. Main question, I remember in your thread something about a "Breakout Board", did you install one to be able to hook-up your limit and home and E-stop switches or did you forego that? If you did use one, did you purchase it or did you build it? (I'm not much of a solderer either). Just getting my machine to move under the directiions from my computer was a total thrill and I thank you and this Community for that Tom

  4. #324
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    Tom,
    Thanks for the comments, I'm glad I was a help toward your build. I was in your shoes just two years ago. I do remember that pile of MDF in my garage. The JGRO is a good starter machine. It will cut anything in the wood, plastic category.

    You choose a good system when you picked out the Xylotex. It's good you got the 425. The 1/4-20 lead screw really will need to be replaced, IMO. But it will run and it will be accurate. It will be slow though. To take advantage of the 425, you can eventually buy the 1/2-8 2start. or the 1/2-8 5start.

    Regarding the subject of limit switches, I didn't install them. Or rather I did, then I disconnected them because of false triggers. I now know how to fix the false trigger, but I also figured out that I don't need them. The JGRO is not strong enough to cause any damage to itself.

    To this day, I don't use limit switches.

    Regarding the subject of the breakout board, yes I have one, and I use it to separate the signals to the x,y and z stepper motors. I also have the z-zero sensor attached to the breakout board.

    I just looked at the Xylotex website, and they have a page with wiring ideas, including the limit switches. So you shouldn't need to buy anything extra. http://www.xylotex.com/PDFS.htm
    Good luck with your build,
    Dave
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails xylotexlimits%5B1%5D.jpg  

  5. #325
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    Christmas keeps me extra busy. Making presents for my family is very satisfying. This year I've been making hotplates.

    PS, my dust collector is full. I kid you not. The bottom bag is literally half full. I got to empty it soon. Tomorrow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_3795.jpg   IMG_3794.jpg  

  6. #326
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1316
    Looking good Dave. I got jumped at the last moment for signs plus 790 circles each 4" cut from signfoam. Got about 550 more to cut and the room is covered in white chips, got to get a dust collector.

    Jason

  7. #327
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775

    A new tool for the fixture holding

    Tonight, I found some free time to design and cut a fixture clamping neckers knob. That's what my father-in-law calls it. Apparently, way back in the 50s and 60s, the teenagers customized their steering wheels with a knob. They called them neckers knobs so they could drive with just one hand. Apparently, the right hand was busy doing other things.

    So in honor of my father-in-law, I'm calling this a neckers knob.
    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3046/...4a97c2f865.jpg

    As always, I did ALL the work in Vectics VcarvePro. Actually, for this project, Cut2D would work just fine too. It's amazing how much torque I can put on these clamps now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3289404846_c16a05e8e2.jpg   3289404552_da037f43b6.jpg  

  8. #328
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    50
    Hi Dave
    First of all, I'm posting on your thread to keep it alive and at the top of the list because I use it as a reference for my entire build and repair work. Second, on page #15 of your thread post # 154 you post the code for both Short leg and Long leg motor mounts. The Long leg motor mount is the very first thing that I ran on my jgro once I got it up and running. I ran it on 1/2" MDF and just stood there awed and amazed while my machine made all those neat little runs and cuts. Then I went over to my friend Brad's house to ask more questions and he told me to make sure to surface my machine then to cut two lines in the top Perpendicular to each other as a starting reference. So after I surfaced my top I cut the two lines and found out my machine was not cutting square!!!! Well, only having every other weekend to work on the machine it took awhile but I finally got it to the point of "close enough."
    Third, could you, or anybody out there reading this, tell me how to alter that code list of the Long leg motor mounts to cut full 1/2" material [Please].
    Fourth, Thank you for this thread being there.
    Tom

  9. #329
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    740
    Quote Originally Posted by TommieK View Post
    Hi Dave
    First of all, I'm posting on your thread to keep it alive and at the top of the list because I use it as a reference for my entire build and repair work. Second, on page #15 of your thread post # 154 you post the code for both Short leg and Long leg motor mounts. The Long leg motor mount is the very first thing that I ran on my jgro once I got it up and running. I ran it on 1/2" MDF and just stood there awed and amazed while my machine made all those neat little runs and cuts. Then I went over to my friend Brad's house to ask more questions and he told me to make sure to surface my machine then to cut two lines in the top Perpendicular to each other as a starting reference. So after I surfaced my top I cut the two lines and found out my machine was not cutting square!!!! Well, only having every other weekend to work on the machine it took awhile but I finally got it to the point of "close enough."
    Third, could you, or anybody out there reading this, tell me how to alter that code list of the Long leg motor mounts to cut full 1/2" material [Please].
    Fourth, Thank you for this thread being there.
    Tom
    Tom,
    I didn't open the code and look at it but, I think David said it was for 12mm material and cut about .25 per pass. If you run this code, you should have the material cut almost through. You could have the machine cut to full depth simply by setting Z zero 0.5mm below the top surface of the material and running again. If you watch while the machine is cutting, you can pause the machine at the end of the first pass, and find the end of that pass in the G-code. Now you can find the Z depth for the second pass and just edit the number to add the extra 0.5mm.
    If you haven't learned to read G-code just google it. There are several good articles about it out there and trying to read the file you have is a good learning experience.
    Hope this helps.

  10. #330
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    Tom,
    Thanks for the comments. Glad to help out on the inspiration end of your CNC experience. It sure is a fun hobby. Spring has been a busy time for me this year, but I have finally finished the End Table project. I made 5 copies of my mothers favorite end table. The original endtable is at the front of the photos. Although I made these on the Joe 4x4 Hybrid, the size could have been made on the JGRO too. Software was all Vectrics. VcarvePro is all you'd need for this one.

    Bob, thanks for helping out with the gcode answer.
    Dave
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3359232969_13e0daaea1_b.jpg   3359232341_ce9e493420_b.jpg  

  11. #331
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    740
    Hi Dave,
    Been away from the site for a while. I finally got back to working with the cnc and had to return. You may remember I was building a bed and I finally got back to that project. I will be posting some pictures soon.

  12. #332
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    BobF,
    Glad to hear from you. Glad you are back on task too.

    This weekend, I got the bug to build a custom router table. Yes a manual router table. You can't beat a manual router for rounding off corners and adding bevels. So I found a neat set of plans that illustrate how to build the internal router lift. I got all excited and bought the steel rod and bushings, only to realize that I need to build a table too. Then I remembered a neat set of plans for folding wheels. I found those plans and started to build. This has been so much fun.

    All the major parts were cut on my CNC machine. VcarvePro is awesome for this type of work. I did all the drawings inside VcarvePro. Directly from the drawings I make the tool paths.

    So today I finished the base structure. That includes the wheels/axles/chassis and side panels. I'm not an artist, more practical. Next, I'll complete the guts. The router lift mechanism.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails router cabnet and hidden wheels.jpg   router cabnet and hidden wheels-3.jpg   router cabnet and hidden wheels-5.jpg   router cabnet and hidden wheels-1.jpg  

    router cabnet and hidden wheels-2.jpg   router cabnet and hidden wheels-4.jpg   router cabnet and hidden wheels-6.jpg   router cabnet and hidden wheels-7.jpg  


  13. #333
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    85
    Dave

    Nice work the manual router and end table ahh I can't wait to get my done now.

  14. #334
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    I've gotten the mechanism done to raise and lower the router. Almost all the pieces were cut on the Hybrid CNC.

    The mechanism is complete. I assembled the router holder too. Tomorrow, I'll disassemble the front and cut drawer openings in it.

    Here's link to plans for this design. http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/...commentmessage

    You will have to log in to see the plans. I think.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_3858.jpg   IMG_3860.jpg   IMG_3861.jpg   10652_T001.jpg  


  15. #335
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775

    Router table Front is cutout

    Here is the result of cutting the front cabinet face. I removed the front face, realigned it on my Hybrid 4x4, and started cutting. Of course I had to draw the drawer and door design using vcarvepro. That was pretty easy.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_3862.jpg  

  16. #336
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    Here is a picture of the lift project in action.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails router lift in action.jpg  

  17. #337
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    740
    Wow Dave, you look a lot different in that picture. :-)

  18. #338
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775

    A top deck dust partition and drawer slides

    I've completed the drawer partitions and top plate dust partition. I thought I'd add some photos for you to view.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_3865.jpg   IMG_3866.jpg  

  19. #339
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775

    Router Table Makes first Cuts today

    Yesterday, I cutout, laminated the top. I also finished the tool drawers and got a good start on the bit drawers.

    Today I hinged the top, and cut and installed the zero clearance plug.

    Next, I'm planning to trim the table edges with hardwood, make the bottom drawer and closeout the router access door.

    This table is a collection of three different designs. It has retractable wheels, retractable router, and lots of drawer space for bits and tools.

    I'm real happy with the results. I drew the entire job using only VcarvePro. It's not a replacement for a professional drafting package, but I find I could draw everything in this router table using only VCarvePro.

    I also cut the knobs on my lathe. No drawing was required for that job.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_3899.JPG   IMG_3900.JPG   IMG_3901.JPG   20090525140947.jpg  


  20. #340
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775

    Still Almost finished with the Router table.

    This is going to be a nice tool to supplement the CNC machine. Cutting profiles on the CNC then adding a round over on the manual router will be so easy. Today I assembled the Fence and dust port. Last week I added the various Tee rails.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20090613170058.jpg  

Page 17 of 18 715161718

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