[skubajon]

Good day

So I have 16 hiwin hg15 blocks in my setup and they all shipped with needle style zerks. I took the 4mm plug out of the front and installed them

I did notice when I go to lube with grease gun and needle that 90 percent of it wants to ooze out the needle instead of going inside the bearing. I'm using a lithium base nlgi 2 grease. It's like it's blocked inside the bearing and won't let grease in. I can't grease externally as the wipers won't let much pass through and into block.

Do I need to do anything special? Do I need to make a hole once I remove the screw and insert the fitting? The fitting is on the end caps (red) face just above the linear rail. There are side ports and a top port but those are not drilled or anything from the factory.

Any input would be much appreciated.

I also seem to see this with the ball screws as well. Lube using a standard zerk seems to want to just ooze out around the seal after maybe half a pump. But it only oozes out on one side seal and not the other. I want to make sure I'm getting grease throughout the bearing

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Christian_S]

Please read the Hiwin lubrication instructions. The nominal relubrication requirement for HG15 rail blocks is only about 0.3 ml at 500 km travel intervals. If you can observe a lubrication film on the rail where you move a block, the lubrication is sufficient.

[skubajon]

I read through those but problem is I don't think I'm getting any lubrication inside the bearing. Not noticing a film on the rail itself so I didn't know if there was something that needed to be punctured to pass lube through

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Christian_S]

I agree the instructions does not seem to call for puncturing anything when using the front connection. Have you tested if you can get grease through the zerk when unscrewed from the block? Your grease gun needle adapter may not be correct for the supplied zerks.

[tommylight]

I use a syringe filled with oil for my HGH25, remove the screw, fill with oil, put back the screw.
I worked for me for the last 6 or 7 years, using ATF while building machines and SAE 90 after finishing them.
Tom

[skubajon]

I will try that next. I may end up ordering some 4mm zerks instead of the needle type

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[lucky phil]

I was going to ask your exact question a while back, with my ball screws and blocks I grease mine while moving the axis slowly, it stops the grease coming out of the ball screw front seal and works its way through to the back seal, and I thought by moving the axis the balls would be moving so they get even coverage throughout.
Philip

[skubajon]

Well I tried a syringe type needle for my grease gun...no luck. I guess I'll get one of the flush type tips? The hg15 have really odd zerk

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[islaww]

HIWIN offers a lube adapter kit that fits all of their zerks and fittings: HIWIN Grease- Elgin, Illinois- HIWIN Corporation

[skubajon]

Well I borrowed a tool from the shop. Just your standard Napa needle. Not to be considered with the syringe type needle. It's small tapered end. Worked like a charm

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[tommylight]

Glad you made it work ! Giving up never pays off.
I use HiWin 25 so it is easier, larger hole. Now i am using some THK35 and they have a 90 degree adapter mounted on them so it is much easier to lube them on the machines.
Regards,
Tom

[skubajon]

Nope but new problem. Never order Chinese machined pulleys. I had one of the clamps snap. So now to make some tapered bushings to correct.

Anyone roughly know how much torque or force is put on the ball screw when cutting aluminum? I have 750w ac servos into a 2 to 1 reduction

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[tommylight]

With god end mills, very little (relatively speaking), so 16mm screws should do just fine, i am using them in a small mill for aluminium and i can push it way more than the spindle can handle with a 6mm end mill.
Need to make a bigger one with some 25 i have laying around.
Tom

[skubajon]

OK sounds good to me. I didn't think there was too much force on them. I was going to use like a qd type bushing instead of pulleys with 2 set screws. Is it needed? Don't know but I tend to over engineer for everything lol

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Christian_S]

Anyone roughly know how much torque or force is put on the ball screw when cutting aluminum? I have 750w ac servos into a 2 to 1 reduction
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

The maximum torque will normally only occur during acceleration for rapids. The torque depends on your settings and gantry mass, or if tuned to maximum I believe 7.2 Nm is a common peak torque for 750W AC-servos - so ~15 Nm on the ballscrew. To be sure I would add a 100 % margin and use 30 Nm as my requirement.