[dneisler]

I can run these on my mill(PCNC1100), much faster than you quote and get a great drill finish. So why is the lathe so much slower and will not run it?

Yes my holder sticks out to far, that is temp. untilI get my stuff in from tormach. I did not have a spot for it. Also, I was running machine drills, but the one I took out was my last one so I used what I had to test here with.
Flutes are to the collet, but not inside.


Here is what I do not get, and no offense to anyone as I appreciate the help. Why is it with this new drill that has never seen metal that when it started it's first drill cycle it touched my stock and just sit there, never dug in to start cutting. The turret kept for lack of better words bouncing back and forth until I hit STOP? Wouldn't that be it missing steps? Heck I would think it would at least try, and as bad as I have screwed up stuff on my mill I have never had it do that.

Maybe I am wrong to assume the mill and lathe are/should be list as strong in the axis as one another. Maybe my Z axis on the lathe has an issue somewhere....I need to find out.

[dneisler]

Ok maybe it is not just drilling...
I was doing a part I done last week 125 times with no issues in 1018.

Today I did the same gcode and it was missing steps doing a OD turn. I was doing .02 doc very light.

So I pulled my wipers off and wanted to make sure the ways where getting oil. Is the op of the way supposed to be oiled as well as the bottom?


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[cbyrd]

I do not believe so. The top of my ways do not have any oil on them when I run mine. I spray my ways and ball screws with E-900 Ball Screw Lub made by Nook. John W at Tormach said that the E-900 has moly in it and keeps everything extra lubed. It seems to keep everything on my 15L running smooth.

[MichaelHenry]

No offense, but is there any chance that the spindle is turning the wrong way? I did that once with my manual mill and it took me a while to figure out why the bit was cutting so badly.

[dneisler]

Nope I checked that.
I think I got it fixed now, will confirm tomorrow.

[MichaelHenry]

Please let us know how it turned out.

[adamvs]

Hope you got this going. Given the time constraints and number of parts, I'd go with a carbide drill, preferably AlTiN coating. You should be able to bump SFM easily up over 200 (possibly 300-400 ) in a leaded steel. You need to do a full retract peck cycle to get the chips out. In a deep hole like that they 'll bind and create lots of heat with no way to get coolant in there.
Another idea, which might make your cycle time is to go to an Ultra-Dex coolant through indexable drill. If the 5/8 hole does not have to be super precise A 5/8th should easily handle it. If not you might be able to get a 9/16ths and then use the same tool for boring on the outside flute.

[dneisler]

I know the issue now for sure. It is a living line clogged up. I manually lubed the way and it runs fine for a while and they problem will come back. Lube it again and I am good for a while again. I replicated it 3 times today. Just need to finish this job and then to fix it. Should be a easy fix.


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[MichaelHenry]

Looks like you have a typo - what is "living" line?

[dneisler]

Gotta love iPhones autocorrect. Oil line


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[MichaelHenry]

That makes more sense!