[DarkStarMedia]

Any ideas why I might be getting this randomly... I will be running a program and in the middle of a cut I will just get this alarm and I have to re-home the machine. It does happen after a tool change (not during) but the timing is not consistent.

Anyone seen this before?

For reference, its a 1997 Torq-Cut 22 with the high speed spindle (no gearbox) and the DX-32 control.

Richard

[nlh]

I have yet to have any issues with my toolchanger, so I'm not sure how it's setup inside...never been into it yet, but it sounds almost like a limit switch or proximity sensor that is just slightly out of adjustment. It might be so close that a vibration from the machine might throw it off. At least that's the first place I would look...then probably call EMI.

[jmullett]

There are two proximity sensors to detect the fore/aft position of the tool changer. I had similar problems with mine. The sensor rattled loose and would loose it's signal intermittently. Mine was actually beat up from making physical contact with the tool changer. I ended up replacing it due to the damage. Mine was a Balluff brand

BES M12MI-NSC40B-S04G
Balluff, Inductive Sensor, 12 mm diameter, normally open, 10-36V DC, NPN, flush mount, 3 wire, 4 mm range, 65 mm long, nickel plated brass housing, plastic face, metal 4 pin Micro quick disconnect

I'm sure any 24VDC, 12mm prox. would do the job, but you want to verify it has the same the pin outs and connector so you can use the same cable. If I recall the Balluff sensor was about $45.

[DarkStarMedia]

Where is the sensor? how do you get to it? Is it on the fixed portion or is it behind the beg panel on the front of the toolchanger?

And Thank you for the info... I might just order a sensor to have on hand just in case.

Richard

[jmullett]

Here's a quick picture of the two sensor locations. Pardon the mess. She's in need of a good cleaning after several hundred pounds of black Delrin.Attachment 331770

[DarkStarMedia]

That is not a bad mess... I am afraid to say mine is a lot worse.

I don't suppose you know how to kick the tool changer out and keep it there to make accessing the rear sensor easier (I assume that it is the retract sensor)?

Some of the allen head screws on my toolchanger are frozen and I'd rather not deal with stuck screws now if I don't have to..

Richard

[jmullett]

Maybe a little spritz of PB Blaster and a little tap with a hammer or even one of them hit her with a hammer impact things to remove frozen and stripped bolts.

I think an estop during a tool change will keep the arm out.

[DarkStarMedia]

I figured the e-stop method would be a solution... I was hoping for a more graceful solution

I tried the BP Blaster and hammer method and it worked on all but 2 of those little screws If necessary I can do without them...

Richard

[DarkStarMedia]

Well I replaced that sensor and things are better. After a while I started getting a Invalid switch states (or something similar). Also, I just recently got a BMDC disconnect but I think that might be due to the heat... It was getting over 95 degrees in the garage so I shut down for the day. I may start again this evening when it cools off.

I really think what I need to do is completely remove, disassemble, and clean the entire toolchanger as it's covered in dried oil and chips from years of not really cleaning it well.

Well.... That and install some AC in the garage.

Richard

[forhire]

Also, I just recently got a BMDC disconnect but I think that might be due to the heat... It was getting over 95 degrees in the garage so I shut down for the day. I may start again this evening when it cools off.

Make sure your cabinet filter is clean and the fan is actually running. My fan went out a few months ago and the computer started locking up. Replaced the fan and all is well. You should also check the fan on the PC power supply while your at it. I could well be the heat of course.

When I first got my machine I had a lot of changer errors. I cleaned everything and it has been much more reliable... only freaking out a couple times a year.

[DarkStarMedia]

Well... The fan on the computer power supply is defiantly not moving. The fans on the filter work great. I also put a new filter on... Amazon had them for $5 each so I bought an extra to put on the shelf.

It seems to run well for a time and then starts with invalid state stuff so I think I might need a new power supply. Luckily it appears to be a somewhat standard AT power supply and due to my collection of old pc stuff, I might actually have one. I think I even have a box of 486 CPU's laying around too.

I have 40 more parts that I want to finish before I start screwing with it so I would like to get that done before taking stuff apart just in case.

Also, I found that my oiler is not working so every few parts I pull up on the plunger but it takes a long time (hours) for the oil pressure to drop so I wonder if much oil is getting to the ball-screws anyway. There is apparently a coolant leak under the front center of the machine too that I need to investigate...

Richard

[forhire]

Also, I found that my oiler is not working so every few parts I pull up on the plunger but it takes a long time (hours) for the oil pressure to drop so I wonder if much oil is getting to the ball-screws anyway. There is apparently a coolant leak under the front center of the machine too that I need to investigate...

The flex hose on my Y axis had deteriorated/broken on my machine and was pounding through the oil. 20+ year old hoses... what can I expect.

When my machine started leaking coolant it was due to the coolant drain troth being filled with fine sediment. I welded a short piece of scrap onto a length of rod, like a small rake, and came in from the back and pulled most of the garbage out. I then snaked a hose in from the top and washed coolant down to finish cleaning them. Since then my floor has been dry.

One of the best things I've done is to put a T fitting at the pump with a valve allowing me to run coolant to a garden spray nozzle. My machine is much cleaner as I can was everything down.