[Galen841]

First off, as this is my first post, I wanted to start by thanking all of you. I have been on here for a while, reading and learning. The information here is invaluable. What a great thing you have all created, and I thank you for that. Following my dreams would otherwise not be possible. This is my first machine, and I have never machined anything in my life. So, I guess I am also a bit paranoid.

I picked up this machine and shorty noticed that the way lube pump was only showing about 2.5 kg/cm2. I opened the manual, and it lists output pressure as 16kg/cm2. After searching, 16 seems to be around the norm. I pulled the filter and cleaned it, as well as pulled the pump out of the reservoir and cleaned the pickup and sludge from the bottom as well. Everything was very plugged. After this, pump pressure came up to 7kg/cm2. When the pump shuts off this immediately drops to about .5-1kg/cm2, and stays for about 30 seconds before dropping to zero. The vertical Z ways get a lot of oil. The left way (first one fed) on Y gets plenty of oil. The right way on Y, and the table (as best as I can tell) are not getting any oil at all. I have opened up several of the metering jets (or whatever you want to call them) and none are plugged - but also, this should cause increased pressure anyways, right ?

I pulled the main line coming into the manifold for the X (table) and had a friend hold the instant switch. All I get is a drip every 5 seconds, almost no flow at all. I can't find the manifold / junction before this (fear I would have to take the table off). I am hoping this is only because I am not getting enough pressure...

I cannot find any leaks. I have looked and looked. I have also gone through a good quart of oil in the process, and the only oil I can find are on the ways. I strongly feel there are no leaks. I have traced every line from the pump to the way as best as I can, although some areas are nearly impossible to get to, but I have found no leaks.

There is 1 line to a manifold for Z and 1 line to a manifold for X / Y. I plugged the Z line and got about 10kg/cm2. I then plugged the line directly after the pressure gauge, and still only got around 12kg/cm2. This told me that either the pump was bad, the motor was weak, or the pressure regulating device was not adjusted correctly (assuming I am supposed to see 16kg/cm2)

I bought a new pump assembly off EBay for $275. Replacing the whole thing was a bit of work so I only replaced the motor and pump and placed this inside my existing reservoir. Plus, mine was already all nice and clean. Here is where I noticed something strange. The new pump was wired as follows: Black to black, white to white, red to red, and ground. My old pump was wired.... Black to red, red to black, and white to white. The DIP switches had also been adjusted inside the controller, so someone had been here before. I wired in the new motor the same as it came, colors matching to each color. Turned it on, and it ran backwards. I then checked every connection back to the main cabinet and confirmed that all U / V / W lines were going to the corresponding U / V / W, nothing was flipped. Odd. I switched the black and red wires, and it runs forward, but pressure is still the exact same.

Sorry for such a long post, but I guess these are ultimately my questions:

1. What pressure should I be reading when the pump is running?
2. I think the pump phase sequence may be what is wrong. I don't know much about this, but is there a way for me to tell without spending more money on a $100 tool that I may not need?
3. If pressure is low as I suspect, and phase sequence checks out as good... what else could be wrong? Why am I not getting enough pressure? Line to line voltage at the pump is 208 on all lines.

Thank you very much... I want to run this thing so bad!! And don't want to waste any more money on parts I don't need.

[underthetire]

First absolute thing you need to do is plug the pump outlet with a fitting. Check and adjust pump pressure. Re attach the line, if pressure is still down, look for a broken line, especially the flex line on the Y axis. If all that is good, the real fun begins.. replacing all the lube manifolds. This high pressure system works much different than you think. Pump pressure causes the manifolds to shut off and block the pressure, so one or two bad ones and you get lots of oil on some ways and none on others. After pressure is released in the circuit, the springs inside the manifolds distribute .12 to .16 cc of oil per piston.

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[Galen841]

Thank you.

I actually already started replacing the injectors / manifolds. Not fun.... but they are very dirty and plugged up. Perhaps some are sticking open, not allowing enough pressure to open the others? Some are just slightly more stuck and this is why they won't open? This is the only thing that would make sense of why I am getting oil to only 1 Y way and not the other. There is a manifold that splits to each way but what are the chances that all of them work for 1 way and none for the second. Seems very odd. Perhaps not all are working for the first way, and it only appears to be - they are very hard to access. I would have to pull the table to be certain.

I did plug the outlet to the pump, and got 12kg/cm2. I do not see where to adjust this, however? There is a small manifold directly after the pump, but none of the fittings can be adjusted. Any ideas?

edit:

I just tested the used pump/motor with the outlet plugged and got the same exact 12kg/cm2. I am assuming this is still out of spec. The only thing left here is the pump must be running out of sequence on the phases. Either that, or this lower pressure than what the manual states is acceptable.

[underthetire]

12 is right at the minimum. 15 is normal, should be an adjuster screw on the actual pump body inside the tank, it will have a lock nut on it. If you remove the screw, don't let the spring fly away. Since the actual volume of the pump is so small, it only takes a couple ports on those manifolds to not close all the way and the system not work or build enough pressure. What you should normally see is the pump climb to about 10, stall for a second or two, then jump to 15 as the meters all close. If that is built like a typical MV 40 the manifold on the back side under the table is the toughest one to get to, but removing the rear Y cover and laying on the table and working upside down, it's doable. BTDT many times. Don't mistake a standard splitting manifold for a metering unit manifold. The metering ones are usually labeled DPBxx, and all world is about the cheapest to buy them. You will need to know the cc amount, that is stamped on the brass ends of the manifold. If you have more time than money, you can rebuild them, it's usually the o ring for the pistons that swell up. Clean in a ultrasonic cleaner and assemble with way oil. I just never did as at 150 an hour, it was cheaper for the customer just to replace in most cases.

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