[DeWalt58]

Dave, yes, we use water based coolents at the day job.
Jessica, there are no real plans to this, you just draw up something based on whats on here and go for it, anything seems to work!! It can be made of wood, plastic, alum...etc. Steel pins, lead slugs, ball bearings...etc. There is a basic blue print on this thread that I used to go by but adapted it for the materials I had at hand. I'm just finishing 4 ea. made of alum with ball bearings that have doubled my IPM!!! Well worth the effort!!!

Cheers
dewalt58

[pipertom]

For what it's worth,
There is a good article on building simple dampers on David Steele's website:
http://solsylva.com/cnc/dampers.shtml

I made the ones using the 2 1/2" casters for my CNC router, and my speeds went from 20ipm to 48ipm. These are cheap and easily available at your local hardware store.

I also have a Taig CNC mill, but haven't tried them on it yet.
I have some 2" delrin rod I'm going to try making dampers out of using the "rattle effect". I'll see if they work as good or better than the 2 1/2" casters.

Hope this helps
Tom

[CROSSHATCH]

Wow, after dealing with hige XYLOTEX board problems on my Taig CNC and not being able too run anything higher then 15 IPm Rapids with my 20 TPI leadscrew.

Making a resonance damper is the only way too increase performance without messing with all the settings in EMC2.

If people are obtaining speeds twice as fast. I should be able too at least do a 25 IPM consistent! Which would be amazing Although I would prefere 40's....WHO HOLD ON THERE! first things first.


My Dampers soon too come!


-Jason

[Jay C]

Just a general question: are you trying to achieve 25ipm for cutting or only for rapids? The reason I ask is that on my machine 15 is "fast" (lexan with a 1/8" end mill), I can't imagine 25 for cutting.

[CROSSHATCH]

No Rapids. I cut around 7 in/min in Aluminum depending on my DOC. But I want too rapid at higher speeds for production time and for the fact that it's cooler going faster lol. No but really, it's for production.


-Jason

[CROSSHATCH]

I don't know if anyone has thought about this. But I thought about this today and thought it could be amazing.

I was thinking of filling each hole with BB gun pellets. Ea' hole too have the same amount of balls. They can be the steel ones or the rubber ones. But I think that would be AMAZING for taking vibrations out.



-Jason

[corrie]

My ? is this. How much rattle within the damper is enough? Can too much rattle worsen the effect?

[corrie]

Well I decided to take a crack at making my dampers and this is what I did.I cut out three peices of UHMW three inches in diameter by one inch thick. Drilled eight holes about 1/4 inch in from the outside diameter about three quarters deep. To each of those I mounted a turn knob handle, I drilled a hole through the side of the handle stem to allow a set screw for each side. I havent got any bearings to use but did have a bunch of shelving support pins so I,ll give them a try. I mounted the dampers without anything in the holes and found a large difference in the way the motors sounded and behaved. I,ll need to get a hold of some type of button plugs to hold these little slugs in place from falling out. Thanks to all for coming up with such ingenious solutions and getting me motivated,cheers.

[CROSSHATCH]

Sweet!


-Jason

[corrie]

Thanks Jason, glad you like them,tommorow I,ll run some code and cut something ,cheers.

[Fixittt]

to keep the pins from falling out could you drill some some holes from the OD to the inside of the holes. And press in a small pin or bolt on both ends? Semi blocking the holes? On both ends of course.

[corrie]

Although the holes don,t go all the way through that sounds like a good idea, thanks fixit and cheers.I,ll see whats in the junk bin then post a pic or two.

[gandalf1]

Not sure if this has been covered previously,
If I apply a slight drag on the hand wheels the motors sound much smoother running but of course that reduces the cutting forces. I have sort of followed the thread and think possibly a damper might help improve the running but there may be a problem as the only place I can fit a damper is in the wheel or put a handle on the damper. Each axis has a belt drive with 1:1.5 reduction for convenience and the very simple control circuit which will only work in full step mode (there being no other).
Any thought received gratefully and will be read carefully.
John.

[Fixittt]

Anyone who runs the lower end stepper drivers know that you are faced with resonance. Here are new dampeners that I made to compensate for this issue.

I used a 2 3/4 in hole saw to drill out the blank spuds from some scrap delrin plate. Turned them down to clean them up. Used cnc to do the holes and recessed pocket. While the cnc was running on the bodies I lathed out the aluminum backplates. One mistake I did make was I totally forgot to indicate the chuck on the mill table. So everything was milled slightly off center. So after assembly I checked up the aluminum backplate and turned them down true. Only bad part is, is that on the front face the small hole from the hole saw drill bit is off center. Oh well, you live and you learn. 1/2 in ball bearings fit inside the body in pockets to rattle around and counter act the Resonance issue.

I used aluminum for the backplate this time because on the first ones I made, The set screw for the stepper motor shaft in delrin would back out.

[corrie]

nice job Fixit,they look real slick,cheers

[justCNCit]

I would like to get some of these intertial dampers. Checked out the site where they are sold, don't know which one to buy.

Without lathe or mill I can't make one. Does anyone here want to sell any & any suggestions on how heavy it should be.

400 oz in motors, xylotex drive, 6' x 4' wood router 10 tpi screws.

[m1911bldr]

I put my new dampers on my CNC router yesterday. They make an INCREDIBLE difference! You can make these relatively easily without a mill or lathe. I used 2 1/2" round aluminum stock becasue I have both a lathe and a mill, but you can make them out of nylon, Delrin or PTFE and use a drill to spin them. There are 9 holes .95" from center, a 5/16" wide spud for the shaft set screw and 9 steel "rattlers." You'll have to figure out a way to mount your drill firmly to the workbench and use a VERY SHARP wood chisel as a lather cutting tool. Use a 1/4" bolt and nut, tighten it firmly in the center hole and chuck it up in your drill. The holes are 9/16" diameter, evenly spaced around the body. I through-drilled the holes then put covers on both sides of the body, but you could blind drill the holes. The 9 steel "rattlers" are very accuratley weighed - I used a reloading powder scale - and cut short enough to move between the covers. Simply cut them with a hacksaw and file them individually to length and weight. Once you've got it all put together, you can drill LITTLE cavities in the body or the weights to balance the assembly. Use a 1/4" rod and two straight edges as a balancing fixture and get the assembly as well balanced as you can.

[grahamshere]

Hi every one, ok I know this will sound cheap but not intended to be. i have no 1/2 ball bearings of any sort so I am going to use penny's,8 or 9 in each hole if I can afford them lol. they are 3/4" but have no idea of the weight. the holes will be 3/8" deep by 7/8" wide and there will be 5. think this will work? graham

[m1911bldr]

I like the idea of using the pennies. I just weighed 5 of them and they should be heavy enough. They add up to a little over 185 grains - the weight I used for my rattlers. Epoxy them together to make them a solid unit. Their mass moving in the holes is what make the dampers work so well. Nice idea!

[Mr.Chips]

At what speed does the damper become effective? Guess what I'm getting at is would 40 IPM on a direct drive one start 1/2" 10 Acme benifit?

Thanks
Hager