The price seems fair..
The price seems fair..
No... never heard of it. How about a link.
http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/
for the money it looks pretty cool
this is what i use ,a bit more in price but well worth the money
http://www.wenzel-wkp.nl/Nieuws/3D_t...ster_ip67.html
lazer seems kinda funky to me , i sure wouldn t use it in a machine shop
wood work i would think it may be ok
Interesting synopsis.
Why would wood make a difference with a laser dot?
Without making this too hard, do you have any concrete conclusions metal would present kind of a problem?
The one I own seems to work ok on metal (no wood -yet).
I just "split" the red dot when aligning scribe marks.
(saves using the 'ol centerpunch approach or a wiggler)
Pres
You are not going to get +-.002 out of it but +- .005 is more along the range. For a lot of work that is more than adequate. What I find it most useful for is very quick positioning holes that have been previously laid out.
An example would be a series of transfer punch marks indicating where holes need to be placed. Mating to an existing pipe flange is a good example. The old way; if there were an even number of holes, I could measure the bolt circle and calculate the x and y positions and take into account any rotation of the pattern. With the laser pointer I hold the piece in place, mark the hole locations, clamp down the piece, position it under the laser and drill, reposition and drill. I do not need to measure or calculate to get the holes right where I want them.
This little device has saved me a lot of time.
I have one, and don't find it any good for picking up edges. Seems to pick up pin pricks quite well though.
I got an lighted electronic edge finder... I am getting good use out of that one. I don't have to worry about it rubbing while I fiddle with the computer to input the offset.
-Jeff
I also think there are far to many variables in a non-contact referencing device to trust it much below 1-2 beam widths and even that could be exponential the further distance it is pointing at IF the beam is not rotated on the axis to verify a true centerline.
Their video shown in operation and only one instance was it rotated in the spindle. The runout of the beam was far too obvious.
I don't think it is a fair comparison in competition to a standard edge finder or indicator, but I can see where it would handy in a few rough and rapid setups. Then take a true reference cut to set 0,0.
If the head is out of tram or the work holder doesn't hold it properly on center or straight, I liken it's trustworthyness on par with a square and a plumb bob!
DC
I will have my guys stick with the regular edge finders, the laser to me is just like digital calipers just dont trust them
individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy.
(see link below)
This is no doubt my favorite edge finder. It is expensive, but you get what you pay for. I can pick up x, y, AND z off a corner in about 30 seconds total, and NOT have to offset for edge finder diameter. I experience .0001" - .0003" repeatability in x and y, and about 0.0005" in z.
You will also need a ring gage to calibrate it in your particular machine.
The only more accurate method that I know is to use the indicator and gage ring method, but that is a LOT slower.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=18267548
Yep, same exact piece, although it is labeled as an SPI product. Haimer's looks a little different, but I bet it is still made by the same company.
I bought mine back when they cost $100 less. Even at the current price, still worth it.
Where can you get the cheap knock offs?
(got a new VMC coming, and it will need one)
Thanks for all the input, I guess I'll keep my $60...
this is the same as my knock off
http://www.lineartools.co.uk/script/...135&cat_id=113
I got one of those laser edge finders recently. I have a really hard time being consistent with it. +-.004 is probably the reasonable range of repeatability.