[toyshop]

I had some problems setting up the Z zero point with Path Pilot.I broke taps.

I was trying to set up to tap 6-32 3/8 deep in a blind hole. The videos I've found say nothing about how to set this.
I had a job that I didn't have time to mess around too long with so I ended up tapping with a tapping fixture by hand.
I really couldn't afford to break off a tap in the parts. Too much time in them and only one spare part.


Practice through holes with the drill press went ok.

Any links to videos that demonstrate this. I would like to have this bookmarked in case this arises again. The tapping head was borrowed and the guy that loaned it had only done through holes on a drill press.

Dave

[Tbkahuna]

What size tap and what material are you tapping? What diameter and depth is the hole? You are using a Procunier 1E head?

Going into the work you just need to make sure you have a little bit of clearance so the tip of the tap doesn't bottom out in the hole before you get the threaded depth cut. Are you wanting 3/8" deep of full threads? You will need a hole deep enough for that plus the chamfered threads on the tap plus a small amount of clearance.

Were the taps breaking on the way in, or when moving quickly after a shallow retraction? I wouldn't think you would break one on the way out. Just make sure the retraction is at 2 times the in feed rate and both are correct for the pitch of the tap.

The position of the tip of the tap is the same relative distance from the spindle nose (I have mine in a TTS holder) going in. It only pulls out when it reverses, so as long as you clear the hole by a safe margin ( I go extra safe on retraction!) you shouldn't have a problem. Just make sure you have the tool length correct if using TTS or make sure you zero it at the part so your Z depth move doesn't cause the tip of the tap to bottom out in the hole.

I make sure to use cutting fluid, too.





Is/was the Procunier head in a TTS holder?

[toyshop]

Basic problem is I didn't know what I was doing, and didn't have time to learn for this job. Tapping in to 303 ss with a 56 dp hole. I think it broke on the way in on the Tormach. Did it bottom out, not sure. I pushed the tap up in the head and set the zero with a gage block. Maybe I should have left it at the float position.

The drill press worked on a couple practice holes and then snap.

I haven't been able to get back in the shop and probably won't for a couple more weeks.

Dave

[popspipes]

Basic problem is I didn't know what I was doing, and didn't have time to learn for this job. Tapping in to 303 ss with a 56 dp hole. I think it broke on the way in on the Tormach. Did it bottom out, not sure. I pushed the tap up in the head and set the zero with a gage block. Maybe I should have left it at the float position.

The drill press worked on a couple practice holes and then snap.

I haven't been able to get back in the shop and probably won't for a couple more weeks.

Dave

My experience with 304 and small tapped holes is something I try to avoid, 40 plus years of it. drilling, use a new or sharp drill,keep the feed up as the drill will dull if it rubs in the hole, plenty of lube, dull corners will work harden the hole which makes tapping the hole in some cases almost impossible, the tap needs to be new or very sharp as well, as it can work harden the hole as well. Use plenty of a good tapping fluid. Keep the material as cold as possible, any heat generated in the material causes some 304 to want to gald to the cutting tool or back to itself. Not all 304 is the same, I have seen it vary from bar to bar, It is not hard but it is tough, work hardening is a real problem. I machined much of it on a lathe and mill, I would save the bars that machined well for future use for small parts.

I tried to stay away from the foreign manufactured material, as the USA made material was always easier to work with and Tig weld (Penetration).

The solvent type tapping fluid worked the best but they took it off the market in the 70's. Rapid Tap or Tap Magic comes to mind.

on my lathe I used dark Ridgid thread cutting oil, thinned a bit with stoddard solvent in the winter months.

lots of experience really helps as one needs to develop a "feel" for it.

Hope this is not too confusing and you may find some benefit from the drivel............