[syscore]

The manual for the PCNC 1100 says that it needs 84 inches clearance height wise. I assume that is to the top of the Z axis stepper. I would like to install the mill on the same side of my garage as my lathe, but the garage door and track is exactly 84 inches from the floor, but it is somewhat away from the wall. How high exactly is the Z stepper and how far is is the front of the Z stepper from the wall, if the mill was as close to the wall as possible?

[eltejano]

The manual for the PCNC 1100 says that it needs 84 inches clearance height wise. I assume that is to the top of the Z axis stepper. I would like to install the mill on the same side of my garage as my lathe, but the garage door and track is exactly 84 inches from the floor, but it is somewhat away from the wall. How high exactly is the Z stepper and how far is is the front of the Z stepper from the wall, if the mill was as close to the wall as possible?

Well, the height depends on how level the floor is and how much you have yo raise the leveling feet.

My Mill is an inch from the Y stepper that sticks out to the wall. The back of the column is approximately 11.5 inches from the wall and the back of the Z stepper is approximately 18.5 inches from the wall. I could not measure my height, my mill is boxed in to a corner with a wall to one side and a lathe to the other.

[syscore]

Well, the height depends on how level the floor is and how much you have yo raise the leveling feet.

My Mill is an inch from the Y stepper that sticks out to the wall. The back of the column is approximately 11.5 inches from the wall and the back of the Z stepper is approximately 18.5 inches from the wall. I could not measure my height, my mill is boxed in to a corner with a wall to one side and a lathe to the other.

Thanks. The track is 20 inches from the wall, so it looks like the Z stepper is beyond that. I suppose I could install it without the feet and use shims. That would buy me the couple of inches I probably need. The floor isn't that bad but it is sloped towards the garage door (as most garage floors are). I guess I will know soon enough when it gets here.

[eltejano]

Thanks. The track is 20 inches from the wall, so it looks like the Z stepper is beyond that. I suppose I could install it without the feet and use shims. That would buy me the couple of inches I probably need. The floor isn't that bad but it is sloped towards the garage door (as most garage floors are). I guess I will know soon enough when it gets here.

The feet have spacers that I think you may be able to leave out. That will buy you a few inches.

Attachment 355626

[mountaindew]

Thanks. The track is 20 inches from the wall, so it looks like the Z stepper is beyond that. I suppose I could install it without the feet and use shims. That would buy me the couple of inches I probably need. The floor isn't that bad but it is sloped towards the garage door (as most garage floors are). I guess I will know soon enough when it gets here.

Tormach machine and base is designed to set under a standard 8x10 garage door area everything clears as long as you keep top of head travel not under the tracks. You cant run the mill with the garage door open, the z head will hit door.

Clear picture of a Tormach setting under a standard residential garage with garage door opener even.


Attachment 355654

[syscore]

Tormach machine and base is designed to set under a standard 8x10 garage door area everything clears as long as you keep top of head travel not under the tracks. You cant run the mill with the garage door open, the z head will hit door.

Clear picture of a Tormach setting under a standard residential garage with garage door opener even.


Attachment 355654

Cool, so the Z stepper isn't the highest point, it is the spindle head itself, when raised. And given where my track is, I can probably get the Y stepper to 1 inch from the wall and the spindle head still clear the track. This helps a lot. I can keep the electric and air on one side of the garage.

[Advil]

I bought one of the HF 3,000 lb racing jacks a few years back and it's worked a treat for short lifts of my 1100 and SBL-15. They frequently go on sale for $80 or so.

Also for about $200 harbor freight sells a pallet jack. The pallet mover made short work of repositioning my 770 after assembly and I assume it would do the same for an 1100. It didn't make sense to rent it for that price and it's right there if the machine ever needs to be moved in a hurry.

[syscore]

The 1100 and stand arrived today. Not a bad turn around time at all. I am really happy that I went ahead and purchased the stand. I debated long about building my own, but I would have been tied up for awhile trying to put together something as solid, let alone the chip tray. I haven't lifted it yet but I have setup the stand and did some measurements and everything looks good. The only down side right now is a sore body, but after I finish with the mill, all the heavy stuff will be installed and secure. I probably won't get to first cut till this weekend. I'll post pictures when it is setup. At least it gives another perspective of size next to a 12x36 lathe in a garage.

[JK13]

Congrats syscore!

You will beat me to first cut and I have had mine for two weeks!



Joe

[syscore]

Just a quick update and a question. My son and I got the mill on the stand today. It was quite a challenge with a 1-ton hoist (I mis-spoke earlier when I said I had a 2-ton hoist). The weight wasn't an issue, but height was. I suspect a 2-ton hoist has slightly larger dimensions all over. In any event, while we could lift it high enough (barely) to clear the top of the stand (after we had to jack it up 4.5 inches to clear the hoist legs), at this extreme the hoist simply doesn't reach far enough out. But we were able to set the mill down on plywood (on top of the stand) and come in at different angles with the hoist and nudge it over the pads. Removing the wood (three 2 x 6's) from under the feet was a breeze. A 2 x 4 on a fulcrum and just one foot on that was enough to easily lift one side of the stand, even with the mill on it. We did this one inch at a time (using 1 x 4's in place of the top-most 2 x 6, and we had the feet on the ground in no time. I thought the hardest part was behind us, but the chip tray was a bear. Maybe it is the butyl tape and the way it sticks so strong, but it took us hours to get the holes lined up, and there is not a lot of room in some places (because the mill and table are in the way). Do some of you power the mill up first and move the table to a different position?

The Z stepper does have plenty of clearance above it to clear the garage door track, so that was a non issue. I could have put the Y stepper about 2 inches from the wall, but I have it about 8 or 9 inches so that when I add the power drawbar, the air hoses that run over the top won't collide with the garage door track. I actually like the extra clearance behind the mill. Finally, I wan all the power cables out the opening where the Y stepper sticks out, but there is also the opening in the backslash behind the control panel. Do some of you leave that open and just run the cables through that?

All-in-all, we overcame the struggles and everything is solid. A very nice stand. I am not sure how long I will keep the table guard on it. It just seems in the way, but since all I have for coolant right now (except WD-40) is the flood coolant, I figure I will probably want the table guard on it for now. I should have it electrified tomorrow and clean up all the trash (crating etc.) and take a couple of pictures.

[eltejano]

but there is also the opening in the backslash behind the control panel. Do some of you leave that open and just run the cables through that?

I just took that off and tossed it in the stand. I ran my cables through the opening. You could always drill a hole with a hole saw on the panel and pop a rubber grommet in it and run your cable through that and keep it in place.

[syscore]

Here is a picture with the Z head at the top ...

Attachment 357076

And a 12x36 lathe for comparison ...

Attachment 357078

Next project is to have more electric/lighting run. I also have a home-built monitor arm to install. I could have pushed the mill all the way to the back wall and the Z stepper/head would have easily cleared the garage door/track, but when I get the auto drawbar, the cable/hose guide that rides on top would crash into the garage door/track. So I have the mill (Y stepper) about 10 inches from the back wall so that all of the Z stuff is in front of the garage door track. I like the ability to get behind the mill, especially in the beginning like this, but I am going to look at the design of the cable/hose guide for the auto drawbar and see if it can be done a different way and allow the mill to be against the back wall. As it is though, I still have plenty of room in the garage. Enough for a car on the other side, easy, even with my work benches on that side.

One question I have is about backlash. I measured mine a couple times and I am getting X = 1.2, Y = 1.4 and Z = 2.1 (all in thous). They are all higher than the inspection report, but my main concern is Z. When necessary, I always work in one direction, but I would still like to get the Z backlash down. The instructions seem straightforward enough. I guess my question is if others had to adjust backlash on new machines? Other specs are good and repeatability is very good. I did one round of tramming, and I need to do another, but it is close enough that I don't think that is affecting Z backlash. I also got the Monoprice touchscreen from Amazon and it connected in no time. I am really happy with the touchscreen. I was hesitant of the interface (compared to the mouse) but it works very well. In fact, I don't think I need a mouse anymore. The Jog shuttle also works very well, as long as I keep my fingers from hitting the axes selector buttons. When you turn the computer off, do you do it with the computer switch on the control panel, or the main disconnect switch on the side? I have been using the main disconnect switch, but I noticed that you could leave that on and just turn the computer off on the control panel.

[syscore]

Also to add, because you have to jack the stand up several inches to get the hoist under it (if your hoist won't fit around it), you probably need to set the mill up away from the wall, with the Z stepper in front of the garage door track, but once you have set it up and lower the stand back down, you can use a pallet jack to move the whole thing back against the wall, under the garage door track. The manual states 84" clearance, but that allows for a couple of inches extra.