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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469

    Double sided tape

    In Australia the carpet layers I have asked know nothing about double sided tape.

    Evidently it is something not used much in the carpet laying trade here.

    So can someone who is familiar with using it as a hold down method in cnc vee carving etc, have a look at this ebay item number.

    330084887825

    Tell me if you think this is the type of stuff you all seem readily able to obtain in the US.

    Thanks, Greg

  2. #2
    looks like the stuff ive used before ,if it"s approx. .005 " thick it is the same stuff ,
    it works ok and doesn t throw out the parallelism as much as the thicker tape

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303
    Bron tapes http://www.brontapes.com/index.html supplies double sided tape, they call it "killer red", up to 60 inches wide. Sticks great and peels off easily without leaving any residue. It's kind of expensive but worth it. I just cost it into the quote.

    Good luck,
    Todd
    http://www.innovative-accents.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303
    You might also want to try a spray adhesive. 3M #77 is pretty good stuff. One can will coat 200 sq ft. At $16 a can its cost effective, if it can work for your project. If your really hogging out some material you can "frame" the part with some blocks to keep the material from shifting and the tape or spray to keep the material from lifting. Just an idea.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469
    That sounds like a reasonable idea Todd.

    Have you tried it? Is it easy to remove when finnished?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303
    Yeah. I did it today with some .06 polystyrene. I used #77 to stick the sheet to a .250 sheet of mdf. Keeps the thin pieces from moving around. It leaves a film on the material. I use WD40 or rubbing alcohol to remove the residue. If this is a problem you can apply some tac paper, like what comes on a sheet of plastic. Its easy to peel off and leaves no residue. You can see on one of the pictures that the MDF is still stuck to the back. Even then it doesn't take much to get it off. Works great for what I'm doing. As for the double sided tape and "frame" I do that most of the time when cutting wood. Unless I can just screw it to the table. From time to time I screw a piece of MDF to the bottom side of the material. Then flip it over and shoot some screws throught the top side of the MDF. Thats if I dont want holes to be visible on the top side of the stock. My vacuum motor is so loud I cant stand to hear it all day. So I do these things to save my ears for the old lady:argue: Good luck
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails inlay 001 800X449.jpg   inlay 002 800X599.jpg   inlay 003 800X599.jpg  

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2420
    I got some from the carpet guys, all it has is Tenacious Tapes written on the inside of the roll, I think it was Carpet One that I went to, I will check that for you.

    The stuff sticks like you know what to a blanket, I used it to stick blank PCB material to the router for milling, and now for sticking the same stuff to the cardboard carrier for direct printing to PCB, works well, though if you don't need too strong a hold, don't totally cover the contact area, use strips. The first PCB I milled I actually had to pry off the router with a screwdriver, it didn't snap but had to be close.

    Cost me $25.00 bucks which I thought was a bit steep but it will last me a long time for what I need. It is very thin, doesn't affect the direct PCB printing process at all. Fairly easy to remove, so long as you do so quickly, harder to remove the longer it sits.

    Russell.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2420
    I just googled tenacious tapes, this link came up first, might help you get a distributor.

    http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/

    Russell.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469
    Thanks Russell :cheers:

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1408
    Greg,

    The double-sided tape I use for holding workpieces, (and loads of other uses), is made by a company called Tesa, and is called
    4970. It is 0.24 mm thick with an incredible acrylic adhesive.

    Here is a link http://www.tesa.co.uk/professional/i...386/78978.html.

    Tesa do a wide range of other double-sided tapes.

    Tesa have bases all over the world including Sydney. The web address for your region is www.tesa-asia.com.

    Best wishes

    Martin

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    382
    I use to do alot of small prototypes. The tape I liked the best and still use is 3M poster tape from walmart. It is made to remove, well for lack of a better terminology like, well, a bugger. Ok I said it, I know how to roll one. But I do flick em. Good God don't eat em. God only know where your nose has been. But seriously the 3M poster tape worked well and came off without a sticky residue. It is 2 sided and I would stick one side to the aluminum plate or a vise top, (side note to self the aluminum plate is the way to go unless you like signing your vise top). It is all fun and games till someone poke out an eye.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2420
    Erm , did you mean booger by any chance...lol. Would make your explanation clearer in my eyes at least. Funny how little typos can make large differences in meaning

    Russell.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469
    I contacted the ebay seller that I mentioned in the first post.

    They are going to send me a sample roll for free

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    382

    Yes booger it is

    Yes booger it is...On the nose. For sure english is my only forien language I took in school. The hardest 4 years of my life was the 12th grade. The last two years they let me co-op as the bus driver. Don't read what I type just read what I mean man.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303
    Did you mean "foreign" (chair) BTW: Please stop discriminating the booger eaters of the world. They can't help they where born that way. Lets have a group hug(group) Can't we all just get along.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    49
    It'd be impossible to have a group hug with a group of booger eaters....... They'd be too busy diggin’ with their right hands.

    But just as a note, I tried the carpet tape idea as well as a few others. But none could beat good ol' duct tape. That is, for what we were doing. In fact, we even began to have a problem peeling off the parts because they would bend (2inch tags). In that case, I just turned on the coolant for a little help.

    As a side note to the guy who made the remark about using the vise top.... I had a #1 center drill lose position into the vise top (decimal error). The spindle stopped dead in its tracks... rotation and Z-movement. To my surprise the center drill minus the very very tip survived.
    The intuitive mind is a sacred gift and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift. -Albert Einstein

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469
    Quote Originally Posted by x6xtyx9x View Post
    ...................... I tried the carpet tape idea as well as a few others. But none could beat good ol' duct tape......................
    How did you use duct tape?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    49
    Double sided duct tape. Very powerful stuff. The DUCT company (has the little duck on the packaging) makes it and I believe it was purchased at Lowes. Ours came in a white roll and had a very thin piece of non sticking material on one side.

    We used the top of the Kurt vice, so it made it super easy. For the tags I set up a program to run an array of around a dozen. I set the offset as the corner of the vice for 0,0,0 (so that I could use the offset function to locate the top of the parts later). I would take the edge of the tape and stick a little over the left side and lay it smoothly across to the edge of the right side. I would then use a utility knife to trim the tape off of the roll and the left side's excess. When doing this I would trim the covering a little to make it easier to pull off the protective covering of the next strip where it would be excess on the left side. Then lay the parts on it.

    Added notes: It is important that if you have to slit the covering to remove the covering, it is easy to ruin the level of the tape when slicing in. If you don't do it just right you will mar the tape’s surface and throw off the whole part. Also, with this stuff, a little goes a LONNNNNNNNNNNGGGGGG way, the longer you let it sit with pressure the harder it will stick.


    Good luck!!!
    The intuitive mind is a sacred gift and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift. -Albert Einstein

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    20
    I use the carpet tape from Home Depot. I think it's about 4" wide or so and is about $8 a roll. THey have both Heavy and standard. I've used both get good hold down and easy to feel off. I've also used the double stick tape from Brontapes, it's a lot more expensive so I made the switch
    Electric Signs & Neon
    TheSignSyndicate.com

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1
    i have used double sided tape in the aerospace industry for machining upto 1" thick aluminum billets with a depth of cut upto 0.1" deep, just clean the table with alcohol and also the material, applie the tape to the table and lay down the billet of material. works fine. secect is to use plenty of collant so that the part does not overheat and come undone from double sided tape, also used loctite glue (black in colour cant mind the loctite code number think its 937 or 950) straight onto the table and bond the part to the table just machine profile and any thru pockets 0.005" shy of depth easy to break material arond profiles and thru pockets.

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