[Ctbjdm]

I've searched but haven't found anything - looking for ideas/plans/thoughts on something to protect the proximity limit sensors on the sides of the CRCRP Pro machine.

In case I'm not describing it correctly, it's this:
https://goo.gl/images/eqKPtH - the part sticking in the upper left quadrant of this image.

Any help/ideas welcome - it's likely a matter of days (possibly hours) before I bash one while I'm getting this tuned up and running.

Thanks in advance!

[dgage]

That's a good question and one of the few things I can fault in the CNCRP design.

[Wildkard]

I've searched but haven't found anything - looking for ideas/plans/thoughts on something to protect the proximity limit sensors on the sides of the CRCRP Pro machine.

In case I'm not describing it correctly, it's this:
https://goo.gl/images/eqKPtH - the part sticking in the upper left quadrant of this image.

Any help/ideas welcome - it's likely a matter of days (possibly hours) before I bash one while I'm getting this tuned up and running.

Thanks in advance!

If you are talking about hitting it with the machine axis, that's what the rubber bumpers are for, the machine should hit those and stop before it impacts the sensor.

[dgage]

Not the machine side, the outside. The OP is referring to the fact that these sensors with cable stick out several inches from the machine in all 4 corners. There is nothing protecting them from getting bumped by a person or workpiece. As I pointed out, this is the only real thing I can point to that I consider bad design by CNCRP.

[slodat]

You could switch to a right angle M12 cord..


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[ericclinedinst]

Eh. They come with right angle connector cords.

You could switch to a right angle M12 cord..


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[Ctbjdm]

@dgage is correct - am concerned about the outside of the sensors. They do come with a right angle cable but are sticking out exposed for me to bang into them.

So far I've considered just a block of wood slightly deeper than the protruding sensor body, CNC out a hole for the sensor body and possibly route a channel for the cable to run down inside. But I have to believe there is a more elegant solution out there.

[ger21]

They should be mounted underneath, pointing up. Not sure how feasible that would be.

[clevet]

I too have been wondering about this....The switches are exposed and susceptible to damage. Could building a steel cage or redesigning the mount itself that incorporates a guard be the best solution.

[slodat]

That is not a right angle (90 degree) connector in the photo...


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[Ctbjdm]

@slodat - agreed, the cable in the image I found isn't 90*. It's not important though - the sensor sticks way out and is likely to get broken.

@clevet - that is exactly the type of guard that is needed. Maybe I can put something together using 1/2" ply or someone may have another solution...I pinged CNCRP to this thread, see of any of their other customers or they have suggestions/solutions.

[Kosh]

here's a couple showing mine with Right angle M12 cables. And yes, they stick out. Mostly I just avoid walking there. But you can see from the pictures that after I re-did my DC system, the drooping hose when at it's closest actually smacked up against it. I can probably shorten that or better yet suspend it in the middle, but it's been a concern.

But what about this idea? how about making some custom brackets to install the sensors on the carriage itself? You just have the bumper be the part that gets detected when it gets close. This way the M2 cables would be going through the cable management system, and partially protect by the carriage and also the track. I've already made a proximity bracket to hold my Z-axis one, so it's not hard, worse case is you have to drill some holes in the risers and carriage.

[thefixerdude]

I have thought about moving them to the gantry pointing the other way and using the current bracket to trip the sensor. I might need to flip the bracket to make it work and I hope the cables are long enough.

[dustbot]

The sensors sticking out always bother me. I attach them to the carriage and run the wiring with the motor wiring. Much neater.

[LeeWay]

I just powder coated some aluminum angle to protect mine.
I think it was 2 x 3 inch stuff. Works great.

[GF357]

Before the linear upgrade I took an 8020 plate and modified it to guard the sensor and hold the E-stop.

[Ctbjdm]

Ok, I came up with something using stock 8020 parts (I'm not much of a metal fabricator, but this works great)

(3) 80/20 Part #4375, 15 Series, 6-Hole Inside Corner Bracket - https://8020.net/shop/4375.html
(4) M8 bolts 20mm
(4) M8 flange nuts

(2) M8 bolts 30mm - used to replace the stock bolts holding the bumper plate on, these should be longer - double check as reading the manual they say they are 35mm, maybe I installed the wrong ones from day 1 but I needed longer ones.

Just remove the bumper plate, reinstall with a 4375 corner bracket and the longer M8 bolts (be careful - the machining on the bracket is very precise, don't misthread the bolts into the 80/20 extrusion!). Then assemble the remaining 2 angle brackets as shown using standard M8 20mm bolts and flange nuts (can probably use any nuts you have).

Easy to assemble, easy to remove if necessary, and definitely strong enough to protect the sensors.

Pictures:

[PapaLima]

I know this is a little old of a thread but I thought I would quickly share what I just made.

I had some flat aluminum laying around I got from Homedepot. I cut a section off and between a bench vice and a 2lb hammer I got it bent. Not pretty, but works so far.
For the next one I think I'll make it a little longer and put the hole in a better place.
I'd love to make the bends cleaner and have it painted bright glowing orange or something so you can't miss it. Maybe even wire it up so if you bump into it you get a nice jolt...

[DaveCNCnewb]

I need to figure something out for mine soon. I nearly sheared mine off yesterday. I'll give Papa's solution a try..

[Spotswood]

I made mine from two pieces of 20x40mm extrusions.

Attachment 379172