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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Uncategorised MetalWorking Machines > OK, ordering my RF-31 tomarrow. Need help and advice with conversion
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    46

    OK, ordering my RF-31 tomarrow. Need help and advice with conversion

    I made another thread asking about which mills were best for the money ($1500 max) and I decided on this one. Which when I got the Enco catalog it was listed as $14XX. I luckily looked online and saw it there listed at $1079! exact same machine.

    So I will be ordering this beast tomorrow. It with a few other needed parts IE bits, collets and holders came out to a hair under $1200. I have factored a budget of around 17-1800. So that leaves me roughly 5-600 left so I know it will be tight. I have no problems upgrading motors at a later date, but the main thing I will be taking on first is 6061 aluminum. Which 4-500 oz motors should be able to handle easily given I keep the Z passes under 3/16" single cut.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    424
    Quote Originally Posted by boosted View Post
    I made another thread asking about which mills were best for the money ($1500 max) and I decided on this one. Which when I got the Enco catalog it was listed as $14XX. I luckily looked online and saw it there listed at $1079! exact same machine.

    So I will be ordering this beast tomorrow. It with a few other needed parts IE bits, collets and holders came out to a hair under $1200. I have factored a budget of around 17-1800. So that leaves me roughly 5-600 left so I know it will be tight. I have no problems upgrading motors at a later date, but the main thing I will be taking on first is 6061 aluminum. Which 4-500 oz motors should be able to handle easily given I keep the Z passes under 3/16" single cut.
    Its more then likely too late but did anyone mention that round columns suck for cnc conversion

    chris

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    90
    Boosted,
    I have a RF31 that I'm in the middle of re-doing the controls and mechanicals on. I have had this machine for over 2yrs and the "round column" is only a problem if you do not think ahead in setups. Below is the thread I started and the direction in which I am headed, my project is not completed as yet (I keep the machine tied up too much right now to have it down). The budget you have left over will be extreamly tight. I can tell you that the heavy steel stand I built along with flood coolant has made a world of difference in the quality of the cuts. I can tell you this, that if you can save some more up for good motors and drivers and use the machine manually untill then you will be better off. I went the easy way the first time around and was happy with the results, it was just too slow. Good luck on your project, and I will be following your prgress.http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24724
    Robert

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1806
    boosted,
    having done what you are about to embark on, I strongly suggest you convert to ballscrews now and not try to wait and do it later. I thought for what I planned on doing, that I could live with the acme screws for "a few years". Well that plan went south in a couple of months as the screw/nuts wore out quickly and backlash went to about .250"!
    As for the comment by RLC; setup planning is paramount in a sucessful job (and I don't care if it is a round column or dovetail). This planning starts when you do you layout (cad or otherwise). Yes, registration is a problem if you have to raise/lower the head on a round column, but with proper planning, most projects can be done without moving the head! Also remember, BECAUSE the head can be rotated, you can do things the dovetail guys can't (and that feature has come in handy for me).
    Take your time, pre-plan what you want to do and don't be afraid to change in mid stream because the best laid plans will need to change because of details that you may not forsee and pay attention to even the smallest details. One problem I had was the bolts holding the X nut mount would loosen up over time (especially with a couple of hard stop incidents) so in addition to the two bolts, the new mount is now also pinned to the saddle. you can see some of the details on my web page and if you have questions, fire away and I will try to help.

    http://bellsouthpwp.net/A/r/Arts_home_page/DRO/

    Bubba
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    46
    Well right now I have about 450 saved with the last paycheck from my old job coming in will add another 200 to the budget.
    I am tring to line another job up (a on purpose "nothing type" )that I will not care about hours cause I have been hammered by people when they heard about me getting this machine and then converting it to cnc.

    Right now I was looking at twin nut ball screws and 6XXoz stepper motors on a 2:1. Since upgrading the motors would be a really easy thing to do, it would just limit my feed speed for now. I would like to go to 9XX oz motors on final.

    Gecko drives/cpntrollers (since I have never done this before I will assume you need 1 controller per motor?)

    As I said, this is my first shot, so I will take and advice and or suggestions.

    As far as the comment about round Vrs dovetail, I got the best machine that I could afford, so that is what I have to use.

    As far as everything else, everyone says I shoulda been an engineer so I guess now we find out huh?

    RLC, I just read your entire thread and got to thinking about chatter/vibes as well. Since mine will be alot like yours both in model and use (mainly aluminum but steel every now and then) I got to thinking about wanting it quite. I am thinking about using real think 1/16" or so rubber pads between the stand and mill. Nothing so much as to effect regidity, but cetainly enough to dampen any type of vibrations.

    I also got to thinking about coolant pumps (being a computer geek) I have done this in the past for water cooling computers. Low pressure fuel pumps for carb'd cars. You can get 4-8 PSI at 70-90 GPH more than enough to cool cutting bits. You just have to add some filtering plates and make a pick up area of 7-9 Sq inches just to ensure saturation of the pump feed line, but otherwise...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    90
    Boosted,
    From what I have read is that the coolant has two jobs, one being to keep the work piece and tooling cool and the other being to remove chips so that they don’t get re-cut. My mill is mounted solid to the stand and is not that bad, I might lift the whole thing up and place some rubber pads under the stand legs. I am also going to go to a bigger pump (more gph) just to see how it works.
    Robert

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    424
    Quote Originally Posted by RLC View Post
    Boosted,
    From what I have read is that the coolant has two jobs, one being to keep the work piece and tooling cool and the other being to remove chips so that they don’t get re-cut. My mill is mounted solid to the stand and is not that bad, I might lift the whole thing up and place some rubber pads under the stand legs. I am also going to go to a bigger pump (more gph) just to see how it works.
    Yes, coolant improves surface finish(esp when using carbide), by keeping the material/bit cool, and reduces friction, and clears the cutter, and removes the swarf out of the tool area. leveling pads are always a good idea as they help remove vibrations and provide a firm mounting to the ground as they conform to the concrete/floor better.

    I still think a round column is the wrong way to go, but if you are only going to be running odd offs and 1 and 2 pieces you will be fine. The RF 30 I use is not the quality of some the square columns that are around now, but its older and has been abused. The one thing I would do if its the same as the 30 is replace the cloumn locking bolts with new ones.

    Chris

  8. #8
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    Jan 2007
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    46
    WOOHOO it will be dropped at local trucking for home delivery tomorrow!
    So I might actually be getting it in the garage tomorrow!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    90
    Boosted,
    Congrats!!! on your mill, I'm sure you have read this before on here but, Be sure that it works then take it apart and clean clean clean. Then re-grease and oil it back up and make your adjustments.
    Robert

  10. #10
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    Jan 2007
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    46
    Quote Originally Posted by RLC View Post
    Boosted,
    Congrats!!! on your mill, I'm sure you have read this before on here but, Be sure that it works then take it apart and clean clean clean. Then re-grease and oil it back up and make your adjustments.
    I went by the local place today, as I know the owners personally and told them to ignore the funky business name, it is me and this is how I need it delivered.

    She said she thought the address looked familiar. LOL.
    She said no problem and would hold the small truck and wait for yellow truck to get there and try to have it to me today, if not Monday first thing.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    46
    IT'S HERE IT'S HERE!

    Yes it finally showed up about 9AM today (3/19)
    The guy that dropped it off was trying to "push it" and I told him you know that weighs about 650 Lbs right? He laughed and said no wonder why it won't budge!

    So after about 15 minutes of meandering it onto the lift gate it was in my garage.

    I sprayed it down with cleaner to remove the shipping grease/spray which it is not have a whole lot on it, then preceeded to relubricate it.

    I still need to get a few things for it, mainly so I can run my R8 collets and then begin the parts order for the conversion.

    Using the metered dials as a reference, it looks like it has about 6 thou of play. But for what I plan on doing with it for now (wood art) will be fine. I do not see wood creating much resistance to create backlash.

    I figure I will do the basic cnc conversion now, with the ball screws with double nuts to be done at a later date.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    46
    Ok so need some advise now.
    Things I will need...

    Motors. I was looking for somehting around 620 In/oz

    Motor drivers. Gecko? anything else as good for the money?

    Power supply. No idea here.

    Software. was going to go Linux cnc, but open to toher free/cheap ideas.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1806
    Gecko is an excellent choice for the driver, but looking across the zone, I also see good things about Rutex and Larken on the servo side. There are several choice that can be made for steppers also in including the ones mentioned.
    As for the software, my personal choice is TurboCNC (dos based) and will run on "cheap" computers The one I have in the shop now is a 133MHz unit that was given to me when a friend "upgraded" and didn't know what to do with the old one! For a Cam program, I use SheetCam and it does a very good job for the 2 1/2D work that I do.

    Bubba
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    46
    Quote Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
    Gecko is an excellent choice for the driver, but looking across the zone, I also see good things about Rutex and Larken on the servo side. There are several choice that can be made for steppers also in including the ones mentioned.
    As for the software, my personal choice is TurboCNC (dos based) and will run on "cheap" computers The one I have in the shop now is a 133MHz unit that was given to me when a friend "upgraded" and didn't know what to do with the old one! For a Cam program, I use SheetCam and it does a very good job for the 2 1/2D work that I do.

    Bubba
    anything about this?
    http://www.xylotex.com/Econo3AxSpecial.htm

    I was looking at it mainly for price.
    The motors will be fine for working with wood, but I still would like something with a little more umph...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    403

    Here's a Power Supply hint. (from Campbell's) and a Stepper motor basics manuel from Gecko. Good luck!!

    Ron
    Attached Files Attached Files

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    46
    Ok well after looking at several pages and what not I decided on this.

    The 3 axis cnc kit from homecnc.com, I went ahead and ordered the 200 Oz motor kit (highest rating one they had), even though I will not hook them up. As I will be replacing those with 497 oz units from Xyltex.com.

    If anyone is interested I will be selling the 200 oz units, pm for price.

  17. #17
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    Jan 2007
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    46
    oh almost forgot to add pics of the beast...

    the mobil oil buscket for size reference for those that have not seen this machine before.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN1889.jpg   DSCN1890.jpg  

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    761
    Before it is too late. Cut a hole in the top of the stand so you can get to the y axis from below.

    Here's mine:

    http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/3155cncmill.jpg
    Wayne Hill

  19. #19
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    Jan 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by WayneHill View Post
    Before it is too late. Cut a hole in the top of the stand so you can get to the y axis from below.

    Here's mine:

    http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/3155cncmill.jpg
    Would you mind telling me how you did yours including parts and what not you used.
    I just started a new job and it looks like I will be working alot of overtime and will not have much time for research and what not.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    761
    Quote Originally Posted by boosted View Post
    Would you mind telling me how you did yours including parts and what not you used.
    I just started a new job and it looks like I will be working alot of overtime and will not have much time for research and what not.
    Boosted,

    This was my first CNC comversion. Things I learned.

    1. Use ballscrews.
    2. Use servo motors and drives.
    3. Use Mach 3 and fast dedicated PC.

    Learn from everyone.
    Wayne Hill

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