[cncbuilt]

It’s been really cold ( 0deg-10deg f) these past few weeks and it’s not going to change anytime soon. I typically start up my pellet stove in the morning letting it run for an hour before using my 1100. This morning I noticed on z axis rapids that it sounded funny like the preload bearing on the ball screw was to tight. I left for lunch for a few hours with the stove still running and came back and things sounded normal.

I don’t do any warmup of the
Mill but have seen others that do not sure if that would help?

I think I will have to start up the pellet stove earlier to ensure it’s been running a few hours before starting work.

Anybody else run into issues with a Tormach in a cold garage?



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[Jim Dawson]

If your shop is not heated it can cause havoc with the machine. Machines like to run best at about 65 and above. If it's below about 40 I fire up my 150,000 BTU propane torpedo heater. I point it at the machine from about 10 feet away, normally takes a couple hours to warm up so it's warm to the touch, and by that time the shop is toasty too. Slowly exercising the machine helps, start show and then bring the speeds up.

[GLCarlson]

It'll take more than an hour to warm 1200 lb of cold iron from 10 below to 65F.... as the OP demonstrated pretty clearly.

However, having lived in the Frozen North far longer than any sensible person would, I wonder if one or two of those engine block heaters might be useful? Certainly made starting a car at 10 below much easier. Or the frugal alternative: a 100 watt light bulb and a tarp. Seems like an easy way out if one has a shop that's only occasionally heated, and ought to help avoid condensation as well.

Anybody ever tried that?

[wildwhl]

Hasn't been quite as cold here as the OP indicated only getting into the low teens, and the garage is partially insulated but possibly this can help the situation.

I keep a small 700W oil filled heater in the front tool storage section of the base on my 1100. It's setup on a timer to turn on around midnight, and the thermostatic control built in keeps the temp where I like it. Ideally the heater would be attached directly to the column somehow, but using this method I never see the casting drop below about 50 degrees (I have a small thermometer attached tot he spindle). Additionally, I have a small (10W I believe) aquarium heater in the coolant tank. When I kick the heater on in the shop an hour before I start working, the mill is always warm enough to get the job done. After the first 20 minutes or so of use the thermometer reads above 65. It's easy to get the air in the shop warm, not so easy to bring a freezing cold hunk of cast aluminum up to temp.

WW

[cncbuilt]

some good ideas....it was minus 5 deg this morning which is crazy and i dont ever recall such a cold spurt up here in NH. i turned on the pellet stove at 7am this morning and it took a few hours to get everything ready. i like the idea of a time on one of those oil filled heaters i need to find mine.

[joshetect]

Could also consider a thinner way oil.

[Djstorm100]

Could put a magnet on the stand or the machine base and plug in a diesel engine heater.

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-1160-300.../dp/B000I8YOR4

[rocklebeau]

If you have access to the rear of the machine, put a 100W trouble light under the column and leave it plugged in.

[Djstorm100]

I don't think there is room for under the column, could take the access panel out and put the light in the column?

[74BurkeMVN]

I put in a small propane direct vent Rinnai furnace - has a "setback" feature that will run the unit to keep the shop (300sf) above 38°. The shop space is well insulated with R19 walls and R30 ceiling build inside an otherwise unheated pole barn. The only issue I have is the PBD bottom seal leaks compressed air when it's around 40° or less AND the automatic oiler doesn't like supplied way oil from Tormach at low temperature either.
I have no issues with XYZ motion at all.