[Ntl]

It will make things a lot easier for you. Vista finally updated the drivers for mine so I can use in Mach4.

That's what I figured, when I first built the machine I thought why would I need a remote when the machine is so small. After getting it up and running and not even running any parts, I realized really quick how useful it would be when I was trying to troubleshoot the binding as well as installing my limit sensors. It would have made a lot of things easier.

Now that I'm actually cutting parts, I realized that my eyes aren't as good as I thought they were. I can't wait to get the Pendant!! Super excited to use it for the projects I'm getting ready to run. I'm going to wait to do them even though the cad cam is done and I have the material.

Is your pendant similar to the one I'm getting? The mach ones I've seen look almost the same, but apparently they are programmed differently. Kind of a bummer since the Centroid one is twice as much as some of the mach ones I've seen. Either way I hope it works good since it's going to be very handy.

[OlfCNC]

That's what I figured, when I first built the machine I thought why would I need a remote when the machine is so small. After getting it up and running and not even running any parts, I realized really quick how useful it would be when I was trying to troubleshoot the binding as well as installing my limit sensors. It would have made a lot of things easier.

Now that I'm actually cutting parts, I realized that my eyes aren't as good as I thought they were. I can't wait to get the Pendant!! Super excited to use it for the projects I'm getting ready to run. I'm going to wait to do them even though the cad cam is done and I have the material.

Is your pendant similar to the one I'm getting? The mach ones I've seen look almost the same, but apparently they are programmed differently. Kind of a bummer since the Centroid one is twice as much as some of the mach ones I've seen. Either way I hope it works good since it's going to be very handy.

The "Centroid" pendant is a chinese XHC made pendant relabeled and price rised.
Here it is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Manu...751863886.html

[Ntl]

The "Centroid" pendant is a chinese XHC made pendant relabeled and price rised.
Here it is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Manu...751863886.html

Yes I've seen that, the one they sell has a few differences:

Buttons to match the VCP, a USB wired antenna, and firmware installed to work with CNC12. It's plug and play only requires checking a box in the setup wizard and a system reboot.

Unfortunately you can't just buy one that is similar since the one they sell has software installed on it to work with their controller only. I'm sure that someone that has programming experience could program one to work with their software, but I definitely don't know how. So the extra $100 is worth it for me to be able to just plug it in hit a couple buttons and I'm good to go. The whole set up only takes a few minutes, depending on how long it takes your PC to restart.

So I'm assuming that's where the extra cost comes into play. I'll let you know how it works when I get it next week. Everyone I know that has one says they love it.

[OlfCNC]

I had a HB04 pendant which is a previous model of the one you showed, but accidentally broke the LCD.
Then I bought one of these: http://cncdrive.com/downloads/UCR201_manual.pdf
It works with the UCCNC only as far as I know so no joy for Mach and Centroid users.
The difference to the XHC one is that this pendnat has a much higher transmit range and the LCD update seems much faster than the XHC one so it is better readable.

[Ntl]

That one is cool looking, I like the e-stop. Do you know what they do to them to get them to work on a system? It's too bad that the companies don't make them universal with some simple software that we can use to set them up. I wish I knew how to do programming.

[OlfCNC]

I don't unfortunately. I think it is made by cncdrive so asking them is my best bet to get this info.

[ger21]

Do you know what they do to them to get them to work on a system?

It's either in Firmware, or the software that connects to it.

Mach3 and UCCNC use plugins to get the control to talk to the pendant.

I suspect the Centroid software has the pendant code integrated into the system. Or has a pre-installed "plugin", that's enabled with the checkbox.

There's no simple way to make a pendant designed for one system to work with another.

[wmgeorge]

Dan, My Vista does not have a LCD screen but it works fine and I think is was $130 or so?

[ger21]

Bu it won't work with an Acorn.....

[Ntl]

I already ordered the Centroid one. I'm definitely happy with the one they sell.

After looking at the model they offer on XHC website it's different than the mach ones even though it looks similar.

It comes with windows software so it can be user programmed. It's actually more expensive from XHC and you would still have to program it. The one I got is already programmed and ready to just plug in.

So I definitely take it back after looking at the different ones that it's expensive. I didn't realize it's different than the mach ones that are all over the place.

From what I've seen I don't see anything that this one is lacking that the others have other than the big e-stop button. I honestly have never had to hit my e-stop anyway so I don't know how useful it would be anyway.

[GME]

I already ordered the Centroid one. I'm definitely happy with the one they sell.

After looking at the model they offer on XHC website it's different than the mach ones even though it looks similar.

It comes with windows software so it can be user programmed. It's actually more expensive from XHC and you would still have to program it. The one I got is already programmed and ready to just plug in.

So I definitely take it back after looking at the different ones that it's expensive. I didn't realize it's different than the mach ones that are all over the place.

From what I've seen I don't see anything that this one is lacking that the others have other than the big e-stop button. I honestly have never had to hit my e-stop anyway so I don't know how useful it would be anyway.

FWIW, I don't keep the pendant in hand while a job is running. So, if/when something goes wrong, I hit an estop button I have on the machine close to the work (I have 3 different buttons located around the work area - just in case). I wouldn't think of fumbling around for the pendant if an emergency arose.

Stuff happens. When the coupling on my Z axis slipped on an up move, which, in turn, caused my Z to plunge way too deep, I was very happy to have the e-stop button close by. I avoided a broken bit, which speaks for itself.


Here's an off topic tip that just came to mind. For anyone inclined to fix minor cuts in the spoilboard, 3M Glazing and Stop Putty (the red stuff used by auto painters) works great. https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Brand-C...s%2C207&sr=8-2 It's lacquer based, so it dries quickly. It's easy to sand smooth, and doesn't cause MDF to swell. Durham Rock Hard works well for deeper cuts, but because it uses water to mix it up, it will cause some minor MDF swelling. It's localized, so sanding the putty does an adequate job of of leveling everything out. This is a good way of extending the life of your spoilboard. You can find the glazing and spot putty and Durham Rock Hard at the big box and most hardware stores. The putty is also usually available at auto parts stores.

Gary

[Ntl]

Good to know, I've been needing to seal my spoil board. In searching for what to use I saw a video that a custom painter uses vinyl sealer. At first I thought it was used for sealing vinyl until I looked it up. Apparently it's vinyl based sealer kind of hard to find locally, I've only been able to find it as special order. Have you tried using it to seal MDF? I'll have to find the video that I watched the guy using it.

Just curious what everyone else is using if anything for sealing the machine bed surface.

Thanks

[GME]

Good to know, I've been needing to seal my spoil board. In searching for what to use I saw a video that a custom painter uses vinyl sealer. At first I thought it was used for sealing vinyl until I looked it up. Apparently it's vinyl based sealer kind of hard to find locally, I've only been able to find it as special order. Have you tried using it to seal MDF? I'll have to find the video that I watched the guy using it.

Just curious what everyone else is using if anything for sealing the machine bed surface.

Thanks

Vinyl sealers are good, They are a good base coat for pre-cat lacquers (think professionally painted kitchen cabinets). However, as you found out, they can be hard to find locally. Of you live in or near a large city, you may be able to find it at a Sherwin Williams industrial materials sales facility. That's where I had to go to get pre-cat lacquer. You can use an oil based exterior grade polyurethane finish, often referred to as Spar Urethane. Minwax Helmsman is one. My local Lowes and Sherwin Williams stores carry it.

Since I cut mostly wood, I've never had a need to seal my spoilboard. If you are wanting to use a mister when cutting aluminum, you will want at least 3 coats, and even then, you may have trouble with MDF. I have used most paint type products at one time or another, including high quality car and boat paints. However, I have never tried to protect MDF from the soluble oil and water mixtures I use when milling metal. My gut tells me that it wouldn't work out well, but I can't say for sure.

If you are wanting to seal the MDF for looks, or to resist humidity moisture in a humid climates, like it might be subjected to in a garage, coating all sides and edges with spar urethane would probably work. However, I wouldn't try to seal just the top surface. To the extent unsealed MDF will swell/move in a humid environment, any unsealed edges/surfaces will still swell.

My shop is temperature controlled, and despite being close to the waters of Puget Sound, humidity in my neck of the woods remains surprisingly low. On the few hot and uncharacteristically humid days we get, my heat pump takes care of it sufficiently.

Gary

[difalkner]

I don't seal ours with anything. Our shop (garage) is climate controlled and I don't have a problem with rust or swelling.

David

[Ntl]

Thanks guys for the info on the sealing.

[Ntl]

Well the MPG showed up this morning, 15 minutes later I was using it. I'll post a video later but here's a pic of it, the thing works great!!

[peteeng]

The cheapest thing to seal MDF or any timber with is white PVA glue. Dilute it 1:1 with water and brush on a and rag off. It applies very quick and 3 or 4 coats will level the surface nicely. Depends on what you are trying to achieve. 2 coats will seal, 3-4 coats will level and 6-7 coats will put a nice matt varnish finish to it if that's what you want. Its also an excellent sealer to use prior to any other paint top coat. A coat is really fast to apply and you recoat in 30-40 mins. Kind of a modern shellac approach. Peter

[Ntl]

Here's a couple pics of my first go at routing some birch plywood. It was also the first attempt at doing a two sided part. I need to adjust a few things in the CNC file but overall it was a success.

Dan

[PLJack]

Well done Dan. Looks clean.
Is that DJA industries on the back? BJA, BLA.

Jack

[Ntl]

Well done Dan. Looks clean.
Is that DJA industries on the back? BJA, BLA.

Jack

Yes DJA Industries, some of the interior of the letters came loose when it was cut. I had a feeling it would lose the detail but that's how we learn by trying. I'll post some more pics when it's finished, I'm also going to post a video of the job being ran. It's actually a nested file with a few different parts being cut from the same blank. It might take a little while though since I need to edit down the video, we'll see how that goes since I'm not a video guy.

Dan