[mactec54]

mactec54

I have changed the first parameter to 400Hz as said by you.
I am again attaching the pdf and those are the complete set of parameters that the VFD supports. rest all are just connection diagrams and maintenance instructions.

Also what about the PWM frequency settings? i.e parameter P12.19 ? is 10kHZ fine ?

You need to set the other Parameter as well, the minimum speed these spindles run at is very important, if you want to get a good life from your spindle

P00.09=100

Default is normally fine for any PWM Parameters I doubt that you are doing anything related to those settings

[suganesh95]

You need to set the other Parameter as well, the minimum speed these spindles run at is very important, if you want to get a good life from your spindle

P00.09=100

Default is normally fine for any PWM Parameters I doubt that you are doing anything related to those settings

Ok will set that ! But the pwm settings did have a major change as mentioned by CitizensOfDreams ! The default was 6kHz now i have it set to 10kHz and the noise (If you check the video you can hear the noise) disappeared ! So is 10kHz PWM frequency all right ?

I will be using this spindle for my cnc.

Also what does main frequency mean ? Also what do these mean , max freq., Middle freq. And min freq.

Thank you

[mactec54]

Ok will set that ! But the pwm settings did have a major change as mentioned by CitizensOfDreams ! The default was 6kHz now i have it set to 10kHz and the noise (If you check the video you can hear the noise) disappeared ! So is 10kHz PWM frequency all right ?

I will be using this spindle for my cnc.

Also what does main frequency mean ? Also what do these mean , max freq., Middle freq. And min freq.

Thank you

You are mistaken it is called Carrier Frequency, and CitizensOfDreams told you to cut it in half which would not of been of any help at all, and I posted for you to use a max of 10 only if you can measure the internal temperature, so 8 is your safe setting 10 is ok if you can watch your temperature Post 18

The noise disappeared because you set the main frequency correct to 400, I also explained this in the previous posts

[mactec54]

The default was 6kHz now i have it set to 10kHz and the noise (If you check the video you can hear the noise) disappeared ! So is 10kHz PWM frequency all right ?

Thank you

A good warning as you set the Carrier Frequency higher the temperature increases, as I have said there is a happy place for this setting for these spindles

The other problem you have the higher you go you can expect to have a low life for your spindle bearings, Unless you can ground the spindle rotor which I doubt that you could do this

Carrier frequencies above 5 kHz are likely to cause bearing damage unless protective measures are taken, and this protective method is by Grounding the rotor this then eliminates any Bearing damage

So ( 2 ) things come into play Bearings and Temperature when you use a high Carrier Frequency setting

[suganesh95]

A good warning as you set the Carrier Frequency higher the temperature increases, as I have said there is a happy place for this setting for these spindles

The other problem you have the higher you go you can expect to have a low life for your spindle bearings, Unless you can ground the spindle rotor which I doubt that you could do this

Carrier frequencies above 5 kHz are likely to cause bearing damage unless protective measures are taken, and this protective method is by Grounding the rotor this then eliminates any Bearing damage

So ( 2 ) things come into play Bearings and Temperature when you use a high Carrier Frequency setting

Thank you for your guidance! Will do as said by you ! I have grounded the spindle using the pin 4. Isnt it supposed to work ? If not how do i do it ?

[mactec54]

Thank you for your guidance! Will do as said by you ! I have grounded the spindle using the pin 4. Isnt it supposed to work ? If not how do i do it ?

Did you check the continuity between the 4th Pin and the Spindle Body, most are not connected, see photo below most have to do this, only some of the better manufactures have the Ground connected inside the spindle

Don't get confused with Grounding there are two different things I'm posting here, Grounding of the spindle is number ( 1 ) and the most important to focus on

Number ( 2 ) is then Rotor Grounding and is not a big problem unless you are using your spindle everyday for production

The easiest way to over come Rotor voltage and Bearing damage is to use Ceramic Balls in the Bearings which some offer, but this only protects the Bearings, the Rotor it's self has to be Grounded to solve this completely, which means modifying the spindle which most users can't do, a photo of what is happening on a normal VFD Driven Ac motor so you have an understanding what happens if the Carrier Frequency is to high, the higher this is set the higher the Rotor Voltage will be

A brush like this can be mounted on the spindle shaft, this is not practical for these high speed spindles, so I have been testing a single point brush on the end of these high speed spindles, the high speed part is the problem as most materials wear to fast to be used for rotor Grounding on these spindles

[suganesh95]

Did you check the continuity between the 4th Pin and the Spindle Body, most are not connected, see photo below most have to do this, only some of the better manufactures have the Ground connected inside the spindle

Don't get confused with Grounding there are two different things I'm posting here, Grounding of the spindle is number ( 1 ) and the most important to focus on

Number ( 2 ) is then Rotor Grounding and is not a big problem unless you are using your spindle everyday for production

The easiest way to over come Rotor voltage and Bearing damage is to use Ceramic Balls in the Bearings which some offer, but this only protects the Bearings, the Rotor it's self has to be Grounded to solve this completely, which means modifying the spindle which most users can't do, a photo of what is happening on a normal VFD Driven Ac motor so you have an understanding what happens if the Carrier Frequency is to high, the higher this is set the higher the Rotor Voltage will be

A brush like this can be mounted on the spindle shaft, this is not practical for these high speed spindles, so I have been testing a single point brush on the end of these high speed spindles, the high speed part is the problem as most materials wear to fast to be used for rotor Grounding on these spindles

Woah ! I didnt know about this ! Thanks for the info !
The back cover of my spindle is sealed ! It wont come off, probably because i purchased this one with warranty. So i cannot open and check if the spindle is grounded the way depicted in the first pic. Is there any other means by which i can check if its grounded? And i dont think my spindle has ceramic beraings they are just normal bearing (4pcs Bearing (2*C7004+2*C7002) ). Also its not for any production purpose, its just for my personal hobby machining and engraving.

I bought the following spindle from aliexpress : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Spin...e43c4c4dMsQbSD
You can check for further info.

Also can you please direct me to any website which shows how a rotor shaft can be grounded without much hassle.

Thank you !

[suganesh95]

mactec54

Ok so here's what i did. Tell me if i did right.
I used my multimeter to check if the pin 4 is connected to the body. I went about it the following way:
- First I set the multimeter to "check continuity mode i.e it beeps if the circuit is closed"
- Then i touched the red probe of the multimeter on the spindle body and the black one on the pin 4, and guess what it didnt beep, also to check i touched the black probe on the the body and this time the multimeter beeped, i checked it with the screws on the spindle and also the threaded part of the female connector on the spindle and for both the cases it beeped but not when i touched pin 4.

So, probably my spindle its not grounded. This worries me !
Is there anything that i can do about it cos i cant open the back cover of my spindle.

Thank you !

[mactec54]

mactec54

Ok so here's what i did. Tell me if i did right.
I used my multimeter to check if the pin 4 is connected to the body. I went about it the following way:
- First I set the multimeter to "check continuity mode i.e it beeps if the circuit is closed"
- Then i touched the red probe of the multimeter on the spindle body and the black one on the pin 4, and guess what it didnt beep, also to check i touched the black probe on the the body and this time the multimeter beeped, i checked it with the screws on the spindle and also the threaded part of the female connector on the spindle and for both the cases it beeped but not when i touched pin 4.

So, probably my spindle its not grounded. This worries me !
Is there anything that i can do about it cos i cant open the back cover of my spindle.

Thank you !

It is not Grounded which is very common with these spindles, it should be the first thing everyone checks when they get these spindles

It will have to be corrected, can you post a photo of the top of the spindle sometimes they stuck on with some type of glue but they will come off, blow the water out before you try to take the top off

[suganesh95]

It is not Grounded which is very common with these spindles, it should be the first thing everyone checks when they get these spindles

It will have to be corrected, can you post a photo of the top of the spindle sometimes they stuck on with some type of glue but they will come off, blow the water out before you try to take the top off

Please find attached the pics.

Can the spindle be grounded by attaching a wire to its body? Will it suffice or should the rotor shaft also be grounded along with it ?

[mactec54]

Please find attached the pics.

Can the spindle be grounded by attaching a wire to its body? Will it suffice or should the rotor shaft also be grounded along with it ?

Draining the water out remove the 4 cap screws on the top and it should come off, is that top plastic or metal most are aluminum and coated

As for Grounding outside that would be a last resort, as a wire like this can act as an antenna and emit EMI

[suganesh95]

Draining the water out remove the 4 cap screws on the top and it should come off, is that top plastic or metal most are aluminum and coated

As for Grounding outside that would be a last resort, as a wire like this can act as an antenna and emit EMI

The cap is sealed it wont come off even after removing the screws.

[KH0UJ]

Sounds like the H7000 and the H7002 angular contact ceramic ball bearings had a deep scorch since the beginning of their assembly, happens to us on one of our production spindles, DAMN those bearings cost a lot!!! the china made will cost you $45-50 a piece, the japanese NSK version $100-120, but I ended up buying the NSK 6002 that only cost $1.90 a piece, took out the covers for a more freeflow motion, washed it with gasoline to take out the internal lubrication, put some high temperature grease, now it runs so much smoother using the original NSK japan ball bearings with a fraction of the cost. haha



You can inspect the ball bearings by opening the tiny allen bolt on the inner shaft side, it`s a spring loaded (6 springs) after taking out the screws you can safely pull the motor shaft directly to inspect the bearings.

[mactec54]

The cap is sealed it wont come off even after removing the screws.

It will come off it is either the paint or silicone that they used, a sharp hit with a soft hammer will move it, hold it secure so that it can't move very far as your have wires that go through the cap

[mactec54]

Sounds like the H7000 and the H7002 angular contact ceramic ball bearings had a deep scorch since the beginning of their assembly, happens to us on one of our production spindles, DAMN those bearings cost a lot!!! the china made will cost you $45-50 a piece, the japanese NSK version $100-120, but I ended up buying the NSK 6002 that only cost $1.90 a piece, took out the covers for a more freeflow motion, washed it with gasoline to take out the internal lubrication, put some high temperature grease, now it runs so much smoother using the original NSK japan ball bearings with a fraction of the cost. haha



You can inspect the ball bearings by opening the tiny allen bolt on the inner shaft side, it`s a spring loaded (6 springs) after taking out the screws you can safely pull the motor shaft directly to inspect the bearings.

Not all these spindles are as you describe, for disassembly

He does not have a Bearing problem, he has it running as it should, there where Parameters that needed to be set that was causing the problem

[KH0UJ]

Not all these spindles are as you describe, for disassembly

He does not have a Bearing problem, he has it running as it should, there where Parameters that needed to be set that was causing the problem

Well I wish I took a video on it before disassembly, it sounds exactly like his spindle, right before entering the 24K range it starts to stutter or rattle same on his problem, I dont doubt on our controller because it`s just a plain and simple inverter with no digital calibrations on it, the speed control is just a potentiometer to vary speed, it`s worth a try to investigate, if it`s not then maybe it`s an inverter setting issue

[suganesh95]

Sounds like the H7000 and the H7002 angular contact ceramic ball bearings had a deep scorch since the beginning of their assembly, happens to us on one of our production spindles, DAMN those bearings cost a lot!!! the china made will cost you $45-50 a piece, the japanese NSK version $100-120, but I ended up buying the NSK 6002 that only cost $1.90 a piece, took out the covers for a more freeflow motion, washed it with gasoline to take out the internal lubrication, put some high temperature grease, now it runs so much smoother using the original NSK japan ball bearings with a fraction of the cost. haha



You can inspect the ball bearings by opening the tiny allen bolt on the inner shaft side, it`s a spring loaded (6 springs) after taking out the screws you can safely pull the motor shaft directly to inspect the bearings.

The bearing are smooth. There is no resistance felt. It was a problem with the VFD settings. The frequency werent set right.

[suganesh95]

It will come off it is either the paint or silicone that they used, a sharp hit with a soft hammer will move it, hold it secure so that it can't move very far as your have wires that go through the cap

Ok, will give it a try and let you know!

Thank you

[suganesh95]

It will come off it is either the paint or silicone that they used, a sharp hit with a soft hammer will move it, hold it secure so that it can't move very far as your have wires that go through the cap

Two of the four screws got stripped while I was trying to remove it. They have used some cheap screws. Looks like I have to crimp a ring terminal to the ground wire and attach with the screw which i was able to remove. Here is a rough sketch of the connection that i made. Please let me know if its ok to connect it this way. Also im not an engineer, the sketch is made out of my understanding so far. If there is any mistake let me know.

Thank you!

[mactec54]

Two of the four screws got stripped while I was trying to remove it. They have used some cheap screws. Looks like I have to crimp a ring terminal to the ground wire and attach with the screw which i was able to remove. Here is a rough sketch of the connection that i made. Please let me know if its ok to connect it this way. Also im not an engineer, the sketch is made out of my understanding so far. If there is any mistake let me know.

Thank you!

Where you show the Ground wire looping around the VFD you can not do that and as for the shaft Grounding that should be direct to the Body of the spindle not wires needed

You need to Have a single point ( Star Ground ) where all your Ground wires attach the Main Ground should be attached to this Star Ground Point then you VFD Ground Goes from this point to the VFD Drive, the Spindle Ground can connect to the VFD Ground Terminal or the Star Ground Point, But no loops are aloud

Do you have your VFD Mounted in a Cabinet if so the Metal mounting plate becomes the Ground Plane once you Create a Star Point Ground on this panel

So you have many choices for Ground wire Termination, but all will be at one point ( Star Ground ) bonded to the metal Ground Plane ( Metal Mounting Plate )