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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969

    ok got my mill from garant

    Hey i got my mill yesterday from garant, so far i am quite happy with it here is a pic of it sorry for the mess i am not done yet organizing the space for it, i was expecting to arrive with a set of sleeve collar but i actually got a nice little er25 chuck with it.
    To give a little idea it had no problem taking a sidecut .375 deep x .100 wide with a .375 4 flute carbide end mill a finish was quite smooth.
    Also the machine is the same as the vario bf20 and is made by the same manufacturer in china "weiss machinery", it also arivved with a test record made by garant and is for the most part square inside 0.015mm or 0.00059in
    edit: Ok tried a .5 5 flute carbide end mill at .5 deep x .2 wide side cut the motor was showing sign of slowing down wich i guess is normal and surface finish after the pass was wavy but ok after i came back on it.
    Also i check the backlash and i currently have 0.006 on the x axis and 0.005 on the y i have not checked the z axis yet but so far its quite impressive for such a small mill but this will probably change a bit as it break in and the nut loosen there self.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_3212.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    403
    Looks good, what are your plans. Now this simular to the X2 and what type of spindle speeds do you have?

    Nice loking mill.

    Ron

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    no its actualy more like a x3/superx3
    motor is a 7/8hp
    speed is low 50-1050 and hi 100-2250
    travel is now that i got it 11.5(x)x7.25(y)x12(z)
    head tilt 90 degree left and right
    but its lighter then the seigx3 at ~262 pound, this is what i got here on the balance at home
    the only con is that its equipped with a mt2 tapper wich limits to the usage of er25 collet or 5/8 end mill holder, the documentation says a max 2" face mill but garant talks of a 2" fly cutter on their site
    for plan well ill be getting the 495oz 3axis kit from keling and in a not so distant futur i hope some ballscrew then well my first project since i have most of the part needed is a surface grinder a la hoss

    edit: ok i got my cnc kit figured out
    -i need 71 inches total of ballscrew or to be more precise 1x19" 1x23" 1x29"
    homeshopcnc.com as "nook" rolled .631x.2 at 1.25$/inch or 1.25$x71= 88.75$
    -they also have some none preload nut at 26$ a nut, so two per axis 26$x6=156$
    -and the CNC 3 Axis Package with 495 oz-in motor and KL-4030 Driver @ 415$
    for a total of 659.75$
    now for the mounting part i have plenty of aluminium at home to make them i would use an old 486pc case for the electronic i have a bunch of bearing here that could be used for the screw flange wich would leave me with some wire sleeve and wire to connect the whole setup to buy so lets say 40$
    wich mean ~700$ with currency exchange 750$cnd plus shipping around 50$cnd each so 100$cnd where at 850$, then you have to add taxes 120$cnd so whe are at 970$cnd plus the duty ~60$, 1030$cnd so i guess thats it did i miss something?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    i have a question i got a bunch of switch and i was wondering if those could be use as limit and home switch
    the have three screw on them and the writing on them are as follow

    v3-101
    und. lab. inc. list. li56
    11A 1/3hp 125. 250 277vac
    1/2A 125vdc:1/4A 250vdc
    4A 125vac"L"
    also on the other side of the switch its written
    micro switch
    freeport, ill, usa
    wich is the brand
    and pointing at each screw there are the word com, nc, no.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    65
    ataxy,

    While I look forward to the accurate and comprehensive answers that will come from the many knowledgable members of this forum, I think the numbers suggest that this switch will handle up to 277 volts of alternating current or 125 volts of direct current without shorting.

    NC stands for Normally Closed, and NO stands for Normally Open.

    With one of your two leads connected to the Comm pin, you would connect the other lead to the NC pin if you want your circuit to be Closed (current will flow) at switch activation, or you connect the 2nd lead to the NO pin if you want the electrical circuit to be Opened (current flow will cease) at switch activation.

    I think some switches are polarity sensitive; your hot or positive lead might have to be attached to the Comm pin vs the NC or NO pins, or vise-versa.

    micro-switch.net might be the mfg.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    ok so in your point of view it should work oh thats great and is there an advantage at using it no or nc

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    65
    Sorry ataxy, I'll have to hand off that baton. I'm sure I'm already over my head.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    hey no problem thanks for the enlightment, anybody else cares to add to nc versus no question

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    632
    I used NC switch for my emergency stop button. I think they have specific purpose. I wouldn't be able to use NO for my emergency stop button. I think NC is more used than NO.

    Haven't used NO switch so not sure when and where to use that. I think NO is just like your average switch, isn't it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1673
    Quote Originally Posted by ataxy View Post
    ok so in your point of view it should work oh thats great and is there an advantage at using it no or nc
    Hi,

    I use NC for all my home/limit switches. The reason for this is if a wire breaks the switch will trip an alarm as the circuit is broken. If you used NO you would not know about it until a home or limit was hit and the damage will be done.

    John

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    ok so how does this work in my case i wil connect the ground to nc and the +5 to com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1187
    So they have those in canada now(your mill aka Vario 20) ? What that run ya(cost) ? Thats my favorite looking benchmill by the way.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    well it came to something quite expensive 2000$ that is conssidering shipping (100$) and taxes (13%) if i would have got it from the state it would have cost me around 500$ less but in my point of view it was easier for aftermarket service if it came from the same country and from only 250km from my house to get part without having to deal with border and duty each time, it also came with a bunch of stuff like cabinet style stand, er25 chuck with 6 collet, tilting and rotating vise, 50pcs clamp set, the thing i am the least satifyed with is that it came with a 600watt motor as ounce i get my stepper and all it wont be up to the task but for conventional work its ok also it comes with a mt2 taper wich is unfortunate if you plan on upgrading to something bigger but so far i dont see it as a handicap they also carry the wasm30v wich is the bigger sister of this machine for 2400$ or 2900$ with taxes and shipping and it comes with a r8 taper it in between the SuperX3 and the RongFU45 size wise and it comes with a 1000watt motor

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