[Mikeedd]

Hi, I am a new user and dont wanna crash wrong thread, so hope you can help me.
I am on a vertical mill build, and as I know it will take me a year or two, I break it down in pieces, and after I solved how to reball the cheap linear sliders (hgr 20 hiwin clone) and while I wait for balls for the rolled screws, I am working on the spindle and assy.
Sherline is too expensive, so my way is to buy a r8 to morse adapter, mtb 2 or 3 for drawbar and machine the item to fit minimum 2, 32904 roller bearings or a better config (2 angular in the bottom and 1 radial in top, under the belt drive).
I will post pictures as soon as I find out how to, but please tell me what thread I should use, as I dont want to mess anything up here in your soo informative forum that I respect and like so much.
Cheers Mike.

Sorry for my bad English..maybe string is more precise than thread...

[stivemaster]

Hello, English is not my mother tongue, so please excuse me, but do you want to get a milling spindle or a lathe? Because I don't understand.

[Mikeedd]

I am making both as I need lower revs (max 5000rpm) for milling steel, and my lathe could also use a new spindle. The only difference is that the milling head use mtb and the lathe will use morse taper A.
The reason I go for morse taper, is that it is the cheapest way to have a toolholder (I dont need atc).

[mactec54]

I am making both as I need lower revs (max 5000rpm) for milling steel, and my lathe could also use a new spindle. The only difference is that the milling head use mtb and the lathe will use morse taper A.
The reason I go for morse taper, is that it is the cheapest way to have a toolholder (I dont need atc).

Morse taper gets old fast, build a collet spindle, choose a collet and go with it

[Mikeedd]

An ER-collet is not indexable, and morse is the cheapest toolholder I know of..

[Mikeedd]

Here is the adapter I will use. It has a m12 in the rear end, and the drawbar for mk2B is 10mm, so need a little creativity :-)
The bearings is on order, and I will post more as items arrive.

[Mikeedd]

Or theese toolholders, and there are many on the net, for a couple of dollars, and they will all fit very snug in my spindle, made from a modified r8 to mt2b adapter :-)

[mactec54]

Or theese toolholders, and there are many on the net, for a couple of dollars, and they will all fit very snug in my spindle, made from a modified r8 to mt2b adapter :-)

And vibrate like hell, stick out to far to be able to take a decent cut, but you only have a 500w motor so will be only taking light cuts anyway

Not sure what you mean by indexing, you can't get any better than an ER with a solid collet for repeatability

[Mikeedd]

I want repeatability, also when I change my tools, thats why I will use a toolholder system.
As I use cheap chineese clones, I will have to modify all components to suit, as nothing is free. After fixing the linear guides, Im working on the ballscrews now, and It is a lot of work, but a part of the game when you take the cheap route.
I also need to make a system for balancing the spindle and mounted toolholders, so will have a lot of fun the next couple of years to come :-)

[mactec54]

I want repeatability, also when I change my tools, thats why I will use a toolholder system.
As I use cheap chineese clones, I will have to modify all components to suit, as nothing is free. After fixing the linear guides, Im working on the ballscrews now, and It is a lot of work, but a part of the game when you take the cheap route.
I also need to make a system for balancing the spindle and mounted toolholders, so will have a lot of fun the next couple of years to come :-)

Repeatability you can achieve that with any system you want to use you just have to get creative good luck with what you are trying to do look forward to see your progress

[Mikeedd]

I think the taper roller bearings 320/22x from SKF is fine, as max speed is aprox 15krev/min and rollers are very strong, what is needed in this tiny diameter spindle.
I have to admit, i doubt the project, and allready bought a mk3 spindle, as the mk2 is quite small, but will give it a try anyway as it is cheap.
Please be patient, as the Corona, mainly target the mailmen, as I understand..I think they have to walk from China, as 60-90 days delivery time now happens...
Good day to all of you lovely folks :-)

[mactec54]

I think the taper roller bearings 320/22x from SKF is fine, as max speed is aprox 15krev/min and rollers are very strong, what is needed in this tiny diameter spindle.
I have to admit, i doubt the project, and allready bought a mk3 spindle, as the mk2 is quite small, but will give it a try anyway as it is cheap.
Please be patient, as the Corona, mainly target the mailmen, as I understand..I think they have to walk from China, as 60-90 days delivery time now happens...
Good day to all of you lovely folks :-)

Here is a Spindle I just built and is working great I made 2 at the same time one has a 30Taper and the other has a 40Taper this is using taper roller bearings which has very high load rating, I will post other photos latter as they would not load in this post

[Mikeedd]

It looks super Mactec, and I would love a 30T but my tools are not up to that for now.
I have read your build tread for the ER spindle build, and you make very fine work :-)

[Mikeedd]

I just got mail, even slowed down during crisis, my friend from China did it again, so only 2-3 weeks for the MK3B version. Now with space for the bearing close to the tool.( I have to adamit the Queens English, isnt my best, so sorry for this..)
Here is pics of mk2 and mk3.. The bearings is still on the way but I will plan the casing now, after ordering my bearings for the mk3 spindle.
I glanced to the Sherline mk2 headstocks a lot, and hope to get same quality with a little outside help.. I dont know about having a male thread on the tip of spindle, as I suppose the drawbar will do the job, and the 10mm hole through the spindle isnt really good for much?
And is belleville washers needed on the drawbar, if its only manually operated?
I would love you to give comments and good advice, as I am pretty and noob :-)

[mactec54]

I just got mail, even slowed down during crisis, my friend from China did it again, so only 2-3 weeks for the MK3B version. Now with space for the bearing close to the tool.( I have to adamit the Queens English, isnt my best, so sorry for this..)
Here is pics of mk2 and mk3.. The bearings is still on the way but I will plan the casing now, after ordering my bearings for the mk3 spindle.
I glanced to the Sherline mk2 headstocks a lot, and hope to get same quality with a little outside help.. I dont know about having a male thread on the tip of spindle, as I suppose the drawbar will do the job, and the 10mm hole through the spindle isnt really good for much?
And is belleville washers needed on the drawbar, if its only manually operated?
I would love you to give comments and good advice, as I am pretty and noob :-)

No belleville washers needed for a drawbar like you want to use, just ( 1 ) hardened washer under the head of the drawbar

[Mikeedd]

I got a spindle and some spares from ebay, the headstock is pretty nice, but heavy.. 15 pounds is my guess.. It will be used temporary for my 10 pounds microlathe, and after for the heavier version I will make.
Pic show spindle, headstock and some other parts, mainly the pretensioned alubuild slide, waiting for a dip in epoxycement :-)
Edit.. I will use the R8 to MK adaptors as tailstock for the lathe, as the 23mm hole through the spindle sounds usefull.. and I feel I got a very nice deal for 200 usd from Ebay, to help me,
The larger lathe will use 20mm rails hgr20cina, but I changed the 132 balls in each car to the right size to obtain a good consisting preload on each, as the rails vary, here it was 4my, so fitted 2my smaller steel balls and all well ,,
20mm hiwin or better cost more than the 40 i paid for the china grade, and is great, compared to the prize, if you finetune yourself..
This wont be a fast build, so feel free to drop in next year :-)
Sorry for the foul language, as it aint my native..

Yours truely, Mikeedditalot.

[mactec54]

I got a spindle and some spares from ebay, the headstock is pretty nice, but heavy.. 15 pounds is my guess.. It will be used temporary for my 10 pounds microlathe, and after for the heavier version I will make.
Pic show spindle, headstock and some other parts, mainly the pretensioned alubuild slide, waiting for a dip in epoxycement :-)
Edit.. I will use the R8 to MK adaptors as tailstock for the lathe, as the 23mm hole through the spindle sounds usefull.. and I feel I got a very nice deal for 200 usd from Ebay, to help me,
The larger lathe will use 20mm rails hgr20cina, but I changed the 132 balls in each car to the right size to obtain a good consisting preload on each, as the rails vary, here it was 4my, so fitted 2my smaller steel balls and all well ,,
20mm hiwin or better cost more than the 40 i paid for the china grade, and is great, compared to the prize, if you finetune yourself..
This wont be a fast build, so feel free to drop in next year :-)
Sorry for the foul language, as it aint my native..

Yours truely, Mikeedditalot.

Moving forward looks good

[Mikeedd]

Here is a quick mock up of the mini cnc-lathe I will build, I guess it will be slanted and with a large cross-slide for gangtooling, but I often change my mind, as I get a lot of inspiration from you guys :-)
The extra spindle will be used for my micro-lathe, with a lighter housing.

I dont know if this link works..but it is my micro lathe build:
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/bench...10-pounds.html

[Mikeedd]

I can see this headstock is very used in mini lathes and there are tons of mods on the net if you search "mini lathe mods".
Very happy for the choise, and ordered 30206 TRB even SKF 10-15usd a piece, as it fits the casting, but could also use 7206B-2rs, as this is sealed. I just believe rollers are stiffer than balls and then Mactec can explain me thees labyrinth seals :-)....
For the spindle to be used in the diy housing, both for the microlathe and the planned vertical mill-build, I think a slimmer bearing in diameter, wil be chosen, maybe a combo of ac plus ordinary radial supporting the drivewheel, or the debatted deep grove stack...
Bicycle Crankbox bearings are often 30mm inner dia, angular, and also hybrid with ceramic balls, and even rpm is lower, a biker puts out around a horsepower.. Picture them jumping the pedals and what the bearings has to deal with.. must be good for any 1hp motor..
I will put the minilathe-build in the other posting, and consentrate on spindle and housing here.

Best wishes, Mike

[Mikeedd]

I hope someone can help me clear this up.
Enclosed pic show how I plan to offset the headstock if the toolholders will be placed in the front as a conventional lathe.
Isnt it better than centering the HS between the 2 longer rails? (shown in picture 2)

-And.. is it a bad idea to rebar the Epoxy-granite ?

My other hurdles is to make a lube system for linear rails and ballscrews, plus figuring out how to mount the tailstock, as I dont think it shall be on the linear rails, but a portal or asymetrical design, sliding outside the rails.

Is it a bad idea to use y-axis cutting off (parting blade) as the newer sandvik system or will this not work without high pressure coolant thru the toolholder?

I know it is a lot of questions, but I have read for months here, without finding answers

Kind Regards Mike..